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Yeah, it is BS. No time frame. Said they put it at highest request, sure what ever GM. Get car back and it is in 0-60 mode. Dropped off with 1/2 tank and get back with 3 gallons. This may cost someone their job. I let him drive it for 3 miles and he said something was wrong. There's more, this is small town that doesn't see a A8 ever. I want a new car GM.
Dealer just confirmed torque converter and they r on back order. WHAT A Fing JOKE CHEVY. should have just gotten a CLS 63 AMG.
Its not the end of the world here. Hopefully just one issue, one time. My wife's CLK had the cluster replaced 3 times, my CLK ran out of gas at least 3 times on me as they attempted to get it to draw from both halves of the tank. Crap happens, hopefully just once.
Its not the end of the world here. Hopefully just one issue, one time. My wife's CLK had the cluster replaced 3 times, my CLK ran out of gas at least 3 times on me as they attempted to get it to draw from both halves of the tank. Crap happens, hopefully just once.
Big Turkey, K1600GT : Took my car in today. Foreman drove it and confirmed "Chuggle on light acceleration". Ran a bunch of diagnostic tests on both the engine and the torque converter - both checked out fine. Confirmed the issue only happens when the torque converter is locked. He is now in contact with the Technical Assistance Center, has opened a case number. Expects to hear back from Platform group tomorrow.
Big Turkey - is your car still good after re-gapping your plugs?
K1600GT - do you have any more details from your dealer on cause / solution of yours?
Will let you know what I learn on mine - so far a bit of a mystery.
I am reluctant to take the car in. I have this feeling that unless something is blown, like a fuse....the dealer isn't capable or inclined to fix it. They are just as likely to drive another Vette from the showroom, confirm the complaint and label it "working as designed".
If I seem jaded, it is because I am. 115k for a car and I have headlights that wobble, a door that rattles to the music and a shudder on light acceleration. Someone joked about avoiding the forum to not read things he didn't know were "wrong" but it's a joke laced with truth.
I just figured it was how the car was, part of the tune...like the wheel skip when turning at low speeds. Guess it isn't but it may as well be for me given the low probability of any dealers actually fixing it.
I still love the car more than I don't but the scoreboard is becoming a tie....
I am reluctant to take the car in. I have this feeling that unless something is blown, like a fuse....the dealer isn't capable or inclined to fix it. They are just as likely to drive another Vette from the showroom, confirm the complaint and label it "working as designed".
If I seem jaded, it is because I am. 115k for a car and I have headlights that wobble, a door that rattles to the music and a shudder on light acceleration. Someone joked about avoiding the forum to not read things he didn't know were "wrong" but it's a joke laced with truth.
I just figured it was how the car was, part of the tune...like the wheel skip when turning at low speeds. Guess it isn't but it may as well be for me given the low probability of any dealers actually fixing it.
I still love the car more than I don't but the scoreboard is becoming a tie....
Found this in C7 general, sound like your problem? Sure sounds like mine
OK... Seems like I jumped the gun... The LT4 and LT1 do not use the same torque converter. The bulletin I posted earlier is for the LT1 only. Expect to hear more later today.
I have felt this on mine and several other very low mile A8 Z06s and the one thing they all had in common is that by the time they hit 1000+ miles it was smoothed out to the point of where it was hardly noticeable or not noticeable at all. It appears to be the torque converter lockup clutch wearing in as it only happens when the converter is being applied and trying to get close to zero slip on part throttle acceleration. I personally would do yourself a favor and just drive it to break it in and see how it is in 1000 miles or so before going through the hassle of having anything changed out or dealing with a dealership on something like this.
I have felt this on mine and several other very low mile A8 Z06s and the one thing they all had in common is that by the time they hit 1000+ miles it was smoothed out to the point of where it was hardly noticeable or not noticeable at all. It appears to be the torque converter lockup clutch wearing in as it only happens when the converter is being applied and trying to get close to zero slip on part throttle acceleration. I personally would do yourself a favor and just drive it to break it in and see how it is in 1000 miles or so before going through the hassle of having anything changed out or dealing with a dealership on something like this.
NiCD - I could see that in the absence of perfect planarity between the clutch plates as originally built this could happened and with a little wear would correct itself. Hope that's the case with mine.
I just hit 500 miles and the shudder is hardly noticeable anymore. Gapping down the plugs certainly helped. I do not have the symptoms described in that bulletin.
My CTSV with A 8 has had a history ofGM attempts to fix a drive train shudder. They tried numerous things including a TC. Nothing fixed it until they finally replaced the transmission last week. Now the shudder is gone. I wouldn't even let them waste time changing the TC
At 900 miles, installed the halltech at 600 miles, and the shudder is gone. Car runs much smoother overall
Its seems kind of hard to attribute your solution to any one thing... miles?, Haltech?, plugs? - it could be that the TC clutch has just "worn in"? Mine is definitely not getting worse - I "think" its getting better - am prepared to drive it another 500 or 1,000 miles to be sure before they stat swapping out parts.
Does anyone know why the car shudders and why some do and some don't?
i speculate that the dual clutch system in the torque converter is not locking up correctly - i think it is slippage we are feeling. i also speculate that as they wear they may mate better and the problem is reduced or goes away. hopefully someone with more specific knowledge will chime in...
Much like a new clutch in a manual transmission breaks in and gets smoother so does the lockup clutch in the torque converter. These converters aren't like the old style that are designed to just lockup and not slip, these have desired slip targets other than zero which can cause a shudder from time to time. There are converters out there that have legitimate problems, but at least give it some miles to fully break in before dealing with a pain in the *** dealership visit that might be unnecessary.
4500 miles so and no improvement. What is the reason some are good and some aren't. Also, most seem to act up around 10,000miles. Is there two separate problems.
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