Mr. Gizmo

robz

Here's a link below to a discussion I was trying to drum up a while back that is not too far off topic for anyone interested in c7 1/4 mile performance and tires.

I was able to test the theory at the drag strip in post # 18.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-clutch.html

Toddiesel

Interesting thread. Looks like you got a pretty dang good 60' time, but unfortunately I can't run wheels/tires like that. I want something that I can either daily drive, or at the very least slap on to make the 2 hour drive to the track and it still looks like the stock wheel. I've seen some people talk about the Nitto NT05 in 345/30/19 so I could get some reproduction rear wheels in 19 and you wouldn't even be able to tell the difference. I know this goes counter to what your post is saying about skinnier being better, but I need something that doesn't look ridiculous on the car while I'm driving it. :-/ I don't want form OVER function, but more of the best function I can get out of an acceptable form, if that makes sense

robz

A 19" drag radial on a separate rim would be fine. Just don't think you need a super wide tire and rim to hook.

GARY2004Z06

You may wish to consider a M/T 325/30R19 as it is a much better tire than the Nitto. It will also help you fill out that wheel well for those good looks.

Glad that Rob chimed in because I could not take anymore of the so called advice from some members.

1. The reason for at least a small burnout is to clean small pebbles that get picked from the staging lanes. You also need to minimally heat up the rubber for it to work properly. Overheating tires is detrimental to traction also.
2. Lowering tire pressure in runflats does work. Here is an OLD thread that is still useful today and discusses a burnout and tire pressure.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-stock.html

Good luck and get us some vid as Rob suggested. We will be able to better assist you in your quest. (BTW- I have seen Rob give advice to drivers by listening to live audio, not seeing from a cell phone.)

Toddiesel

By M/T I assume you mean mickey thompson? Which one? And as far as filling out the wheel well, the nitto is a 345/30/19 so essentially the same sidewall (slightly taller)

GARY2004Z06

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/d.../et-street-s-s

Toddiesel

Ah, ok. Yeah I should have figured. Brain fart. How are those on the road? Certainly not daily driving on them, but will mount them before leaving for the track and it's over an hour of highway driving (and I like to do 100 or so) and another 30-40 min of back, windy roads. Was also considering the R888Rs based on another thread I found on here. I'm told they hook up really well and are still pretty good for the street. Are the MTs going to launch better? Are they going to be decent for lateral movement and highway speeds for extended periods (an hour or so)?

GARY2004Z06

I replaced my runflats after they wore out on my C6Z with M/T 305/35R19s. They were decent in the rain, had some (not much) side sway, provided superior traction both on the street as well as a few passes at the track. (For serious racing, I ran a bias ply tire.) If you are drag racing, those other tires are not in the same league as a M/T or Hoosier DR.

Zo62018A8

I had the car in "D" instead of "M" because I thought the computer would know when to shift at the right moment better than I do

Toddiesel

Well I've heard the Hoosier DRs are BARELY DOT legal and you shouldn't drive them on the street unless you want to die. Just what I've heard. So based on that, i would EXPECT them to hook better than an actually streetable DR. I'll do some more research on the MTs and put them in my short list of possibilities. Only "negative" they have from the R888, R888R, and NT05R is they have 40mm less contact patch. I'm sure a better rubber can overcome that, but it's something in the back of my mind.

I'm not sure I understand the reference/joke/point?

GARY2004Z06

The 305 that we ran will outperform any of those tires; however, I recommended the 325 to you for aesthetic reasons based on your earlier comments.

As for Hoosiers, I highly recommend against running them on the street if there is any chance that you may be caught in the rain. However, here is what a baby 255/50R16 Hoosier DR can do. (1.45 60')

Toddiesel

Sweet baby jesus! That's quite the launch! Watching that video brings up another question though. Looks like you have a line lock. I no has line lock. And I'm skurd as ***** to try the "dump clutch - press brake" method cuz of things like the below video. Is a line lock basically essential for drag radials, or can i just rev and dump for a couple seconds?

Higgs Boson

GARY2004Z06

MAKE SURE TRACTION CONTROL IS OFF. A line lock is a better way to effectuate a burnout but not necessary.
Without a line lock, I roll through the water, move forward and stop just where it is still moist, rev to 4200 rpm, dump the clutch, immediately get on the brake, and modulate the throttle to attain near max rpm without hitting the limiter. You must not get too hard on the brakes or you will induce excessive load on both the clutch and rear diff clutch packs. If you do not get on the brakes hard enough or quick enough, you may move forward into the stickier rubber and damage may occur. ALL of the steps are important or bad things can and do happen. If the burnout is botched, do not retry unless you re-wet the tires. It does take some practice, but it can be successfully done.

Notes:
I prefer a 2nd gear burnout; however, you may wish to start in first as it will multiply torque to the rear and make it easier to spin the tires.
I complete the burnout process after seeing several seconds of smoke and release the brake while still on the throttle . This allows the car to move forward several feet away from any water and debris before pushing the clutch back in.

Toddiesel

That's what I'm afraid of. I'm hesitant to practice finding the goldilocks zone on a $100k car. Also, aren't you putting a ton of wear on your rear brakes doing that?

GARY2004Z06

On a side note, it is much easier to launch a manual trans on a bias ply tire. In general, the 60' is better and they are easier on the drivetrain although breakage can occur on ANY tire.
Here is a bias ply DOT tire. It needs to spin on the initial hit and make several revolutions to prevent a bog. Notice that the nose of the car stays up during the entire launch. (This is a 1.38 60'.)

GARY2004Z06

After I bought my '08 Z and drove it home from Florida, I put DRs on it and went to the track with Robz. I had no hesitation when doing the burnout but I had years of experience. (IIRC it stickered for $78K.) You are putting slight wear and load on the rear brakes and clutch packs and a line lock is a way to avoid this. However, when done correctly, you are getting the front brakes to do the work. The front brakes are biased and the proper brake pedal effort is needed to hold the car without clamping hard on the rear brakes. It does take practice. We have a buddy (Dr. Ron) that would do a rolling burnout where he would get the tires spinning and have the car move forward. He now drives a Viper and is rarely on the Forum anymore. Perhaps you can do a search and see what he says if you are afraid of the standard method. There are other forum members that live near you and can meet you at the track to show you. I WOULD ONLY DO THIS WITH MEMBERS KNOWN TO HAVE THE EXPERTISE.)