This is a informational thread for anyone that's interested in longer splash guards, I know there not for everyone so save the negative comments.
I posted a thread last week with longer and wider guards from O'Reilly Auto. I think that a longer guard would provide added protection from paint nicks behind the doors, and if you just want to use these for track days they can easily be changed with only 3 screws per guard. For those of you that think your not getting any paint nicks back there take a flashlight in a dark garage and shine it at a angle at the paint I think you might be surprised. I bought CRE 24"X12" wide Black Textured splash guards from Real Truck $34.16
https://www.realtruck.com/cre-splash...FYSDaQodEAYABA
I used the existing bottom and side of the guard and cut the top and inside edge per the attached drawing. I listed all the dimensions to make it easy if anyone wants to get these. Also the 3 holes are not identical from side to side so I drilled 1/4" holes so you can adjust them as needed. These are 2" off the ground if your corvette is lowered you can cut them shorter or use the O'Reilly guards.
Cut these to 20" long, at 20-1/4" they hit when going over dips in the road.

 

What is the part# for the textured black 24" by 12" CRE splash guards.

EDIT: Found it Part# CRE-24

 

This is a great idea. Especially as a stop gap measure until I figure out the best solution to optimize both looks and functionality.

If I understand correctly, do you have to remove the stock backing plastic in the wheel well to access the three screws? Then unscrew the screws and place the new splash guard and rescrew the screws? Did you need to get longer screws? Did you leave the stock backing plastic off when completed?

Thanks.

 

Yes remove the factory plastic, I used the screws that came with my ACS splash guards. I would try different size screws to see what works.
Also I noticed if I go over a big dip in the road the bottom of the flap hits sometimes so if your going to get these you might want to make them a 1/4 to 1/2" shorter. Good luck, I don't care what is on the road now cause nothing hits the paint.

 

Those look like good ones to start with. I didn't get them but instead picked up the next larger cheap ones (went from $10 to $13) that are about 18" x 9". (The ones I have used so far are only 16"x 8" before any cutting). When you get down to the area where the side skirts are, I was surprised to see that the tire is about 2-1/4"" wider than the body. No wonder it is a problem. With my smaller ($10) splash guards I am still not covering about 1-1/4" so I plan to install the newer ($13) ones soon. Elephant ears here we come!--Bob

 

Thanks for doing that,
the bottom width should be 6.50.

 

I also had the ACS enhanced but took the bait and got the textured black 24" by 12" CRE splash guards. Made a quick cardboard template, verified marks off the given pattern, cut and installed.

 

 

Still concerned about stone chips, I also have now gone ahead with the wider mud flaps to cover the width of the tire. With the tires straight ahead, the distance between the wide point of the tire and the bottom of the stock rocker panel is 2-1/4". (Held a 4' level against the tire and measured; same on both sides so tires straight). So I installed my upgraded mud flaps (now $13 ones,18" long) and set them so at the bottom of the rockers the flap edge is 2-1/4" out. So the mud flap is now out to the exact width of the front tire. Looks OK to my eye so I will live with them a while and see if I avoid stone chips and get used to them visually. Perhaps at some point will consider the full fender flare inserts I have seen around, but for the moment this is my inexpensive, if inelegant, solution. As noted before, not everyone's cup of tea but works for me. Note I also added my RPI Designs body colored side skirts to match my "stealth-approach" body colored vents. I am hoping that between the skirts and the widened mud flaps I will avoid most of the stone chip problems on the rear quarters. We'll see. -- Bob

 

Good information.

 

Want to throw this out there before other people go through the exercise. I know this group is very aesthetically oriented. While I very much appreciate the effort and DIY post, this didn't work for me. I fabbed up one side, test mounted it and immediately removed it and pitched it in the garbage. To my eye it looks terrible. Way too stick on parts bin trashy to me. Also with only 3 mounting holes and no support to the extended portion below the skirt, it has the potential to flap at speed and slap the rocker. I went back to the ACS spats and have suntek on the sides and rear fender. That will have to do until more aftermarket options come out (hopefully).

 

In my post #7 you can see I undercut the inside curve to make sure it clears the tire as the tire turns closest to the flap. Also you can't see but I did make an aluminum bracket which mounts to the underside original screw and the flap thus eliminating the possibility of the flap slapping the rocker and now it uses 4 screws and is very secure. Elephant ears looking maybe....but no more rocks down the side of the car either.

 

Since one of our group asked in a PM for more detail on how I did my longer mud flaps, I sent him a response and thought I would post it here. But as Spearfish25 noted, the look may not appeal to everyone. I am Ok with it for now but if I change my mind I know it is a simple fix to switch to ACS or other mud guards.--Bob

Here's what I sent out, with some minor editing:
My new mud flaps started as 18" by 9" $13 ones from O'Reily or AUtozone. Positioning: The bottom edge of my mud flaps are 1-1/2" below the bottom edge of my side skirts and 3-1/2" above the ground; the outside edge lines up with the tire width, 2-1/4" out from the body at the bottom. I took kind of a lazy man's route when I first did this because I wanted to be able to make a change easily if I wanted. (Before I had used smaller splash guards that didn't provide enough coverage.) What I did was mount the new splash guards on the existing stock trim pieces. I did this because they are so easy to take off (one 7mm screw on the bottom then a bunch of snap-in clips all the way up), plus I could do the work on my work bench rather than under the car. Plus no uncertainty as to what I might be drilling into in the car. You may or may not care for the look; I think it is fine for what I want.

So I measured where I wanted the flaps to be in relation to the outside of the stock piece (2-1/4" away from the very bottom lined up with the tire width; fairly close to the stock piece at the top). On the workbench I used some clamps to clamp the new flaps to the stock trim piece, adjusted the fit and marked with painters tape the areas on the inside to be trimmed off. I trimmed to match the shape of the stock trim piece on the inside. Also trimmed a bit off the bottom once everything was done to make it horizontal.

I then reclamped the new piece in place on the stock trim piece, checked adjustment and drilled five 1/16th inch holes where screws would go. Just small starter holes as the plastic is relatively soft. There seems to be plenty of room behind the stock piece for small screws. I did the one near the bottom outside first, inserted a 1/2" x 8 (or 10; can't remember) black panhead screw to hold it, then did another and screwed it, then the rest. Screw easy; easy to strip the plastic I assume. I went back to the car snapped everything back in place and replaced the 7mm screw on the bottom. Note there is a tab on the inside of the stock piece that slips in a slot and the bottom tab goes between the side skirts and body; with no skirts just on the body. I mentioned my addition to several people looking at the car and no one had noticed. However, if you decide you don't like the look and want to get custom ones, just remove one screw and snap them off. Here's a side picture from my first attempt with smaller flaps and before side skirts showing the stock trim piece and the mud flap:

 

Just curious, do the guards GM markets fit the Z06 or just the StingRay?

I understand the coverage will be less than this set up.

Thanks,
Harris

 

Be careful going too low. They can scrape and strip/pull out the screws. I've even seen body damage done to Corvettes with splash guards that hang too low. Problem area is going over speed bumps, for example.

 

Yes they fit the Z06.

 

So far I have not had any clearance issues with the new larger mud flaps. As I noted, they are 3-1/2" above the road surface and so far have not hit anything as far as I know. The bottom of the side skirts are 5" from the road surface.--Bob

 

ZR1Bob,

I really like your method of solving the issue for extra wide and extra long splash guards !!!

I even have an "extra" set of the stock GM pieces from our Stingray I can use, without touching the set that will be coming on our Grand Sport (on order now). I bought the GM Accessory ones for our current Stingray and they gave me the stock pieces. I believe it's the same ones that are on the GS so I hope to use them, if not, I'll just use what comes on the GS.

Are you still pleased with how this worked out, after a few months of use? If you were doing it again, would you still go with the 2.25" out from the edge, and 1.5" below the bottom edge?



What did you use to trim the excess plastic off the bottom to make it horizontal, as well as the inside edge? Razor knife, or heavy duty scissors?

Sure appreciate if you could post a couple of clear pics from the front and back view. I am thinking of using alum pop rivets to attach the new piece to the stock GM piece instead of screws, then paint black. Might be a little less noticeable.

Thank you.....
Richard

 

i did the oreilly flaps (thanks guys btw) and i'm happy with them. if i ever want to pull them i can just replace those two plastic triangles i drilled into. look at the pic (larger one of my sig pic) i'll take some good video tomorrow and post up focus on different angles for the flaps. but i also took some video after my clear bra install. (which i had them put a couple extra pieces over rear quarter in front of wheels high up) see how that works. i really don't want to do the side skirts if i can avoid them. i like the lines of the car as is.

 

Hi Richard--
So far everything is fine with the splash guards (3,200 miles). As noted in my earlier thread I originally started with the somewhat smaller mud flaps and later switched to the larger ones. After that switch I wouldn't change anything. They seem to work well, although even with the side skirts I do notice a couple of very fine chips, but nothing I can't fix with Dr. Color Chip over the winter. Nothing like some chips I have seen in pictures of some folks cars. I used black finished screws for two reasons. First, I was able to remove them easily when I switched to the larger ones; pop rivets would be a pain to drill out of soft plastic. Second, the first time I did it I used a couple of regular screws that I painted black. The paint chipped off fairly soon thereafter; I presume that would happen on painted pop rivets. As to cutting the flaps, I don't recall that I had to cut the bottoms, just aligned them horizontally, but on the inside I used tin snips, which are like large scissors designed to cut sheet metal. I think all the pictures I have of the mud flaps have been posted within this post but I'll look. As to the measurements from the bottom of the side skirts and distance from the ground, they were by default as I aligned the top of the 18" mud flap to be where the stock one ended, just below the main wheel arch guard, and that is where the bottom ended up. Lastly, note that at the bottom of this thread there are references to a few related posts.Good luck with yours.--Bob