Alignment




FE1 through FE4 settings are for the base Stingray and the Z51 while FE6 and FE7 are for the Z06 and the Z06/Z07.
As you can see the factory settings are as wide as a barn door with a plus or minus .6 degrees in camber to choose from. A streetable camber setting would be in the range of -.6 degrees so you may already have that. If the inside of your front tires are wearing I would look at the toe in specs. GM recommends plus .1 degree of toe in but there is a tolerance of plus or minus .2 degrees. You could have a toe out up to -.1. I believe having some toe in is better for the street since it reduces pulling from side to side so you should be looking for plus .05 degree toe in.
If you want more streetable numbers than the car has now you could go with this:
Front Camber -.6 to -.8 degrees Looking at the specs you will notice the factory wants more camber on the right front but when you factor in the tolerances and the green zone settings on an alignment machine you could have exactly the opposite if you have a mechanic that just goes for green and done. One alignment machine that a dealer had allowed the mechanic to input my specs and tolerances and revise the green range which helped him get what I wanted.
Front Caster + 7.4 to +8.0
Front Cross Camber and Cross Caster as small as they can get it although a good alignment guy can play with the camber and caster from side to side to get the car to steer straight on a crowned road.
Front toe +.05 of Total Toe In (make sure they know you want Toe In as there is confusion on the plus or minus sign and which sign is Toe In or Toe Out).
Rear Camber -.5 to -.8
Rear Caster +.8
Rear toe +.05 Total Toe In
Thrust angle as close to zero as possible
You may already be close to these settings but if you are looking at max tire wear then I think these would get it for you.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Aug 10, 2016 at 11:43 AM.
FE1 through FE4 settings are for the base Stingray and the Z51 while FE6 and FE7 are for the Z06 and the Z06/Z07.
As you can see the factory settings are as wide as a barn door with a plus or minus .6 degrees in camber to choose from. A streetable camber setting would be in the range of -.6 degrees so you may already have that. If the inside of your front tires are wearing I would look at the toe in specs. GM recommends plus .1 degree of toe in but there is a tolerance of plus or minus .2 degrees. You could have a toe out up to -.1. I believe having some toe in is better for the street since it reduces pulling from side to side so you should be looking for plus .05 degree toe in.
If you want more streetable numbers than the car has now you could go with this:
Front Camber -.6 to -.8 degrees Looking at the specs you will notice the factory wants more camber on the right front but when you factor in the tolerances and the green zone settings on an alignment machine you could have exactly the opposite if you have a mechanic that just goes for green and done. One alignment machine that a dealer had allowed the mechanic to input my specs and tolerances and revise the green range which helped him get what I wanted.
Front Caster + 7.4 to +8.0
Front Cross Camber and Cross Caster as small as they can get it although a good alignment guy can play with the camber and caster from side to side to get the car to steer straight on a crowned road.
Front toe +.05 of Total Toe In (make sure they know you want Toe In as there is confusion on the plus or minus sign and which sign is Toe In or Toe Out).
Rear Camber -.5 to -.8
Rear Caster +.8
Rear toe +.05 Total Toe In
Thrust angle as close to zero as possible
You may already be close to these settings but if you are looking at max tire wear then I think these would get it for you.
Bill
spot on

FE1 through FE4 settings are for the base Stingray and the Z51 while FE6 and FE7 are for the Z06 and the Z06/Z07.
As you can see the factory settings are as wide as a barn door with a plus or minus .6 degrees in camber to choose from. A streetable camber setting would be in the range of -.6 degrees so you may already have that. If the inside of your front tires are wearing I would look at the toe in specs. GM recommends plus .1 degree of toe in but there is a tolerance of plus or minus .2 degrees. You could have a toe out up to -.1. I believe having some toe in is better for the street since it reduces pulling from side to side so you should be looking for plus .05 degree toe in.
If you want more streetable numbers than the car has now you could go with this:
Front Camber -.6 to -.8 degrees Looking at the specs you will notice the factory wants more camber on the right front but when you factor in the tolerances and the green zone settings on an alignment machine you could have exactly the opposite if you have a mechanic that just goes for green and done. One alignment machine that a dealer had allowed the mechanic to input my specs and tolerances and revise the green range which helped him get what I wanted.
Front Caster + 7.4 to +8.0
Front Cross Camber and Cross Caster as small as they can get it although a good alignment guy can play with the camber and caster from side to side to get the car to steer straight on a crowned road.
Front toe +.05 of Total Toe In (make sure they know you want Toe In as there is confusion on the plus or minus sign and which sign is Toe In or Toe Out).
Rear Camber -.5 to -.8
Rear Caster +.8
Rear toe +.05 Total Toe In
Thrust angle as close to zero as possible
You may already be close to these settings but if you are looking at max tire wear then I think these would get it for you.
Bill
Thanks Clive




Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Sep 16, 2016 at 01:17 PM.
^^^Like Bill says, +0.8° for rear caster is within the factory specs, and some of the C7 track hounds have found that a slightly positive rear caster apparently gives a better "toe curve" - the change in toe with suspension compression/rebound.
I think a very important rear caster concern is that both sides be adjusted the same!!!
Make sure that whom ever does your alignment checks the rear caster, adjusts it to whatever you ask them to set, gives you a readout of what it is, and that it's the same both sides.
.










