Steering issues, any input?
To their credit, they have done a good job in aligning the car, even if it took a few tries. The car came from the factory with the steering wheel 3 degrees off center and the 4 wheels pointed god knows where. At least the car is properly aligned now. Unfortunately, to get the car to drive straight we had to adjust the left side front caster 0.3 degrees lower than the right. I just took the car back this week for some adjustments to the alignment for wear and better performance and Criswell did a VERY good job with the alignment.
The trouble is the steering is VERY inconsistent. Not to mention that any imperfection in the road seems to pull the steering wheel in its direction. Sometimes even on brand new smooth pavement, the car starts wanting to go left then right then left and so on. Now I would almost write that off as wide sticky tires on nasty roads, but I've driven a 2013 427 vert with the same size tires and that car didn't do it. Now I know that car has hydraulic power steering, but I can't imagine EPS makes the car feel broken?
Last night I lifted the front end and checked the wheels because it just felt like something in the suspension was moving in ways it shouldn't. I couldn't find anything that was loose to the touch, but that doesn't necessarily mean that everything is right and tight.
The weird thing is on my way back from the dealer last time, 45 minutes away from me, the car felt solid and like it was going down the road straight and true. No problems. Then with about 1/4 of the trip left it was like flipping a light switch and the car was back to its old self.
I tried unplugging the EPS and driving the car without power steering. The issue remains, so I guess it's not the power steering.
I really don't think the car is behaving properly, but without the dealer agreeing and without the ability to drive another C7 ZO6 to compare it's hard to say for sure.
I would love to get some input from other C7 ZO6 owners on how their cars steer and generally go down the road.
Last edited by -Eric-; Sep 19, 2016 at 09:05 PM.
Here's an interesting read from Tirerack on the subject: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=47
It would indicate that it will worsen with treadwear and higher tire pressures. The pressure may help explain why your trip got worse at the end when the tire temps rise. There's also some tips regarding toe settings and negative camber to help.
To their credit, they have done a good job in aligning the car, even if it took a few tries. The car came from the factory with the steering wheel 3 degrees off center and the 4 wheels pointed god knows where. At least the car is properly aligned now. Unfortunately, to get the car to drive straight we had to adjust the left side front caster 0.3 degrees lower than the right. I just took the car back this week for some adjustments to the alignment for wear and better performance and Criswell did a VERY good job with the alignment.
The trouble is the steering is VERY inconsistent. Not to mention that any imperfection in the road seems to pull the steering wheel in its direction. Sometimes even on brand new smooth pavement, the car starts wanting to go left then right then left and so on. Now I would almost write that off as wide sticky tires on nasty roads, but I've driven a 2013 427 vert with the same size tires and that car didn't do it. Now I know that car has hydraulic power steering, but I can't imagine EPS makes the car feel broken?
Last night I lifted the front end and checked the wheels because it just felt like something in the suspension was moving in ways it shouldn't. I couldn't find anything that was loose to the touch, but that doesn't necessarily mean that everything is right and tight.
The weird thing is on my way back from the dealer last time, 45 minutes away from me, the car felt solid and like it was going down the road straight and true. No problems. Then with about 1/4 of the trip left it was like flipping a light switch and the car was back to its old self.
I tried unplugging the EPS and driving the car without power steering. The issue remains, so I guess it's not the power steering.
I really don't think the car is behaving properly, but without the dealer agreeing and without the ability to drive another C7 ZO6 to compare it's hard to say for sure.
I would love to get some input from other C7 ZO6 owners on how their cars steer and generally go down the road.
While I commend your dealer for trying. Having too offset align one side of a new car is unacceptable and points to something being seriously wrong. Have the dealer call the GM tech guys and get the higher ups involved this is way outside of the norm.
Good luck
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I do have one question. Originally when the steering wheel was pointed 3 degrees off center did the car drive straight when you took your hands off the steering wheel?
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; Sep 20, 2016 at 08:46 AM.
Last edited by -Eric-; Sep 24, 2016 at 07:59 PM.
Front
Left -1.6 camber / 6.8 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Right -1.7 camber / 7.1 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Rear
Left -1.2 camber / 0.8 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Right -1.3 camber / 0.8 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Which is basically exactly what I asked for, or as close as can reasonably be done. FWIW the car feels more confident while cornering and doesn't feel any less stable in a straight line. I was wearing out the outside shoulder of my front tires on the factory alignment so the extra camber should help.
I would also point out that GM's own tech materials suggest that if a car has a pulling issue that adjusting cross caster and cross camber is OK once the other possible causes have been explored. None the less it concerns me when you have to take such measures with the car.
I have also noticed that the car behaves much better in TRACK mode than TOURING mode. But track mode would likely break your back over a long haul drive. I think part of the solution may be a DSC SPORT controller for the shocks so I can make SPORT mode just as hard as track but also tune the shock to soften for high-velocity compression to keep the ride comfort there.
THANKS EVERYONE!!!!
Last edited by -Eric-; Sep 24, 2016 at 08:01 PM.
I hear you! Any little bit of a problem and it just drives ME NUTS




Front
Left -1.6 camber / 6.8 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Right -1.7 camber / 7.1 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Rear
Left -1.2 camber / 0.8 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Right -1.3 camber / 0.8 degrees caster / -0.03 degrees toe
Which is basically exactly what I asked for, or as close as can reasonably be done. FWIW the car feels more confident while cornering and doesn't feel any less stable in a straight line. I was wearing out the outside shoulder of my front tires on the factory alignment so the extra camber should help.
I would also point out that GM's own tech materials suggest that if a car has a pulling issue that adjusting cross caster and cross camber is OK once the other possible causes have been explored. None the less it concerns me when you have to take such measures with the car.
I have also noticed that the car behaves much better in TRACK mode than TOURING mode. But track mode would likely break your back over a long haul drive. I think part of the solution may be a DSC SPORT controller for the shocks so I can make SPORT mode just as hard as track but also tune the shock to soften for high-velocity compression to keep the ride comfort there.
THANKS EVERYONE!!!!
Check to make sure you don't have toe out. GM's toe spec's with the track alignment are 0.05 toe in with a tolerance of +/- .2 degrees in the front and 0.05 toe in the rear with +/- .2 degrees. If the tires are indeed toed out that means your settings while within spec can encourage the wandering you are sensing. Especially in the rear.
Here are a couple of other things to think about if the toe is OK.
If camber is the cause of your pull, it will always pull to the side with more camber (from negative to positive). If your car has .5 degrees negative camber on one side and 1 degree negative camber on the other side it will pull to the .5 degree side (since -.5 is more than -1).
Camber may pull toward positive (more tilt in at the top) but caster will pull toward negative, or less caster.
Your left side camber and caster settings look like they would make the car pull to the left. But those differences are very small and I doubt you have much of an issue with them.
Toe in (or out, or both) can definitely make your steering wheel crooked when driving straight, but it almost never causes a pull.
Your toe readings are all the same so it shouldn't cause the steering wheel to be off. If rear toe was not the same on each side you would have a thrust angle affect which means the steering wheel would have to be turned for the car to go straight down the road all be it sideways. If it wasn't the same on the front the steering wheel would be turned but there wouldn't be a pull.
I suspect you should have the toe checked and adjusted to zero or a little toe in in the rear and a little toe in in the front. Use the terms toe in and toe out instead of positive and negative signs as there is no standard on which way it should be marked.
Bill
This is driving me nuts, and my dealer isn't the greatest. I guess I'll give it a shot. I see a couple of people have had their racks replaced. Are there known issues?














