Caster alignment tool
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 242
Likes: 71
From: Oklahoma City OK
Caster alignment tool
I have searched high and low on the forums, but I have not been able to locate the poster that was offering non-GM caster adjustment blocks. If I remember correctly, they were cut by a CNC and were about 100 bucks. I am getting ready to have my car aligned for a track day in a couple of weeks, but the local shop that I use does not have the tool. Since I am going to foot the bill for this, I wanted to try and get something cheaper than the GM tool.
Does anyone remember who this was?
Does anyone remember who this was?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 109
From: Severn Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
just as an aside, know several folks have posted in the past that if you are going to track your car - PLEASE contact Mike Levitas @ TPC Racing in Jessup, MD. Mike is an avid Porsche as well as Corvette racer and he has the alignment / suspension specs down! 410-799-7223
You can tell whomever answers that Rick with C7R said to call
you can check the website out - http://www.tpcracing.com/
You can tell whomever answers that Rick with C7R said to call
you can check the website out - http://www.tpcracing.com/
Malinois Dad
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,570
Likes: 554
From: Kent WA
Is there a better option for the digital angle gauge adapter besides the GM specialty tool below:
https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10
The shop I'm going to use said they ordered the adapter about a month ago and have not received it yet so I want to buy it to get my alignment set to Mike Levitas's specs.
Thanks for any input.
Aaron
https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10
The shop I'm going to use said they ordered the adapter about a month ago and have not received it yet so I want to buy it to get my alignment set to Mike Levitas's specs.
Thanks for any input.
Aaron
Racer
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 255
Likes: 62
Is there a better option for the digital angle gauge adapter besides the GM specialty tool below:
https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10
The shop I'm going to use said they ordered the adapter about a month ago and have not received it yet so I want to buy it to get my alignment set to Mike Levitas's specs.
Thanks for any input.
Aaron
https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10
The shop I'm going to use said they ordered the adapter about a month ago and have not received it yet so I want to buy it to get my alignment set to Mike Levitas's specs.
Thanks for any input.
Aaron
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 3,465
Likes: 650
I came across this thread and now I am intrigued. Where can I find one of these aftermarket tools?
It seems I need the bar from you guys, and the meter i buy online?
It seems I need the bar from you guys, and the meter i buy online?
Last edited by Mikec7z; May 22, 2018 at 12:20 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 1
Pardon me but I'm a bit confused on exactly what tools are required to chk/adj rear caster on the c7 z's.I assume the alignment tool#CH47960-10 and a magnetic digital angle gauge which costs around $30 on Amazon.Anything else??......Ron
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,821
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
I had purchased wstaab's aluminum guide but I am trying to measure caster with the car on the floor and can't get my body in far enough to be able to hold the gauge against the adapter and read the gauge at the same time. That is when I bit the bullet and purchased the GM tool for $182. That lets me magnetically fasten my saw blade gauge to the adapter, pull my hand back, take a flashlight to light and read the gauge. .
As for the gauge you could purchase the GM gauge which is CH-47960 if you can find one on eBay for a reasonable price which would be in the mid $200s or you can use a saw blade angle gauge. There are several on the market that look they are made by the same company but are marketed under different names. I have the Wixey Digital Angle Gauge (WR300 Type 1). This gauge has a +/- 0.1 accuracy Vs the Type 2 having a +/- 0.2 accuracy. Since you are measuring caster that can vary between +0.8 to -0.8 and trying to set it either at GM's recommended 0.00 or DSC's +0.7 you want to have a gauge that is as accurate as possible. A +/-0.2 degree accuracy guarantees a 25% error right off the bat.
The advantage of the GM gauge is it takes some of the effort out of the measurement. When measuring with the saw blade gauge you have to remember which side of the car you are measuring as the gauge is reversed from side to side. The GM gauge has a setting for which side of the car you are on. With both gauges you need to have zero the gauge to the surface the car is on. That means a zero for each side of the car since the gauge reverses. I use a 6 ft long carpenter's level that I place on the floor next to the rear tire and running parallel with the tire. I place the Wixey on the level with the proper orientation for the side of the car I am working and hit zero. Then fasten the gauge to the adapter. If you are working on a 4 post rack with sufficiently wide runways for the tires it is much easier to make the measurement and to adjust caster/camber.
The front side of the rear LCA has more influence on Caster than it does on Camber while the rear side of the rear LCA has more influence on Camber than it does on Caster. It can be quite tricky watching two different gauges while turning wrenches front and rear to bring the rear alignment where you want it.
A problem with the DSC recommendation is the stock toe links don't have enough adjustment to reach toe settings of 0 or any toe in. You are basically stuck with toe out. The Granatelli toe links will provide increased adjustment range. It takes a lot of time to get it right even when you have done the adjustment several times.
Bill
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 3,465
Likes: 650
You can use the dowel pins noted in this thread, a couple of similar sized bolts, the aluminum tool made by wstaab (forum handle) or purchase the GM tool https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10.
I had purchased wstaab's aluminum guide but I am trying to measure caster with the car on the floor and can't get my body in far enough to be able to hold the gauge against the adapter and read the gauge at the same time. That is when I bit the bullet and purchased the GM tool for $182. That lets me magnetically fasten my saw blade gauge to the adapter, pull my hand back, take a flashlight to light and read the gauge. .
As for the gauge you could purchase the GM gauge which is CH-47960 if you can find one on eBay for a reasonable price which would be in the mid $200s or you can use a saw blade angle gauge. There are several on the market that look they are made by the same company but are marketed under different names. I have the Wixey Digital Angle Gauge (WR300 Type 1). This gauge has a +/- 0.1 accuracy Vs the Type 2 having a +/- 0.2 accuracy. Since you are measuring caster that can vary between +0.8 to -0.8 and trying to set it either at GM's recommended 0.00 or DSC's +0.7 you want to have a gauge that is as accurate as possible. A +/-0.2 degree accuracy guarantees a 25% error right off the bat.
The advantage of the GM gauge is it takes some of the effort out of the measurement. When measuring with the saw blade gauge you have to remember which side of the car you are measuring as the gauge is reversed from side to side. The GM gauge has a setting for which side of the car you are on. With both gauges you need to have zero the gauge to the surface the car is on. That means a zero for each side of the car since the gauge reverses. I use a 6 ft long carpenter's level that I place on the floor next to the rear tire and running parallel with the tire. I place the Wixey on the level with the proper orientation for the side of the car I am working and hit zero. Then fasten the gauge to the adapter. If you are working on a 4 post rack with sufficiently wide runways for the tires it is much easier to make the measurement and to adjust caster/camber.
The front side of the rear LCA has more influence on Caster than it does on Camber while the rear side of the rear LCA has more influence on Camber than it does on Caster. It can be quite tricky watching two different gauges while turning wrenches front and rear to bring the rear alignment where you want it.
A problem with the DSC recommendation is the stock toe links don't have enough adjustment to reach toe settings of 0 or any toe in. You are basically stuck with toe out. The Granatelli toe links will provide increased adjustment range. It takes a lot of time to get it right even when you have done the adjustment several times.
Bill
I had purchased wstaab's aluminum guide but I am trying to measure caster with the car on the floor and can't get my body in far enough to be able to hold the gauge against the adapter and read the gauge at the same time. That is when I bit the bullet and purchased the GM tool for $182. That lets me magnetically fasten my saw blade gauge to the adapter, pull my hand back, take a flashlight to light and read the gauge. .
As for the gauge you could purchase the GM gauge which is CH-47960 if you can find one on eBay for a reasonable price which would be in the mid $200s or you can use a saw blade angle gauge. There are several on the market that look they are made by the same company but are marketed under different names. I have the Wixey Digital Angle Gauge (WR300 Type 1). This gauge has a +/- 0.1 accuracy Vs the Type 2 having a +/- 0.2 accuracy. Since you are measuring caster that can vary between +0.8 to -0.8 and trying to set it either at GM's recommended 0.00 or DSC's +0.7 you want to have a gauge that is as accurate as possible. A +/-0.2 degree accuracy guarantees a 25% error right off the bat.
The advantage of the GM gauge is it takes some of the effort out of the measurement. When measuring with the saw blade gauge you have to remember which side of the car you are measuring as the gauge is reversed from side to side. The GM gauge has a setting for which side of the car you are on. With both gauges you need to have zero the gauge to the surface the car is on. That means a zero for each side of the car since the gauge reverses. I use a 6 ft long carpenter's level that I place on the floor next to the rear tire and running parallel with the tire. I place the Wixey on the level with the proper orientation for the side of the car I am working and hit zero. Then fasten the gauge to the adapter. If you are working on a 4 post rack with sufficiently wide runways for the tires it is much easier to make the measurement and to adjust caster/camber.
The front side of the rear LCA has more influence on Caster than it does on Camber while the rear side of the rear LCA has more influence on Camber than it does on Caster. It can be quite tricky watching two different gauges while turning wrenches front and rear to bring the rear alignment where you want it.
A problem with the DSC recommendation is the stock toe links don't have enough adjustment to reach toe settings of 0 or any toe in. You are basically stuck with toe out. The Granatelli toe links will provide increased adjustment range. It takes a lot of time to get it right even when you have done the adjustment several times.
Bill
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 1
You can use the dowel pins noted in this thread, a couple of similar sized bolts, the aluminum tool made by wstaab (forum handle) or purchase the GM tool https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-U...KU=CH-47960-10.
I had purchased wstaab's aluminum guide but I am trying to measure caster with the car on the floor and can't get my body in far enough to be able to hold the gauge against the adapter and read the gauge at the same time. That is when I bit the bullet and purchased the GM tool for $182. That lets me magnetically fasten my saw blade gauge to the adapter, pull my hand back, take a flashlight to light and read the gauge. .
As for the gauge you could purchase the GM gauge which is CH-47960 if you can find one on eBay for a reasonable price which would be in the mid $200s or you can use a saw blade angle gauge. There are several on the market that look they are made by the same company but are marketed under different names. I have the Wixey Digital Angle Gauge (WR300 Type 1). This gauge has a +/- 0.1 accuracy Vs the Type 2 having a +/- 0.2 accuracy. Since you are measuring caster that can vary between +0.8 to -0.8 and trying to set it either at GM's recommended 0.00 or DSC's +0.7 you want to have a gauge that is as accurate as possible. A +/-0.2 degree accuracy guarantees a 25% error right off the bat.
The advantage of the GM gauge is it takes some of the effort out of the measurement. When measuring with the saw blade gauge you have to remember which side of the car you are measuring as the gauge is reversed from side to side. The GM gauge has a setting for which side of the car you are on. With both gauges you need to have zero the gauge to the surface the car is on. That means a zero for each side of the car since the gauge reverses. I use a 6 ft long carpenter's level that I place on the floor next to the rear tire and running parallel with the tire. I place the Wixey on the level with the proper orientation for the side of the car I am working and hit zero. Then fasten the gauge to the adapter. If you are working on a 4 post rack with sufficiently wide runways for the tires it is much easier to make the measurement and to adjust caster/camber.
The front side of the rear LCA has more influence on Caster than it does on Camber while the rear side of the rear LCA has more influence on Camber than it does on Caster. It can be quite tricky watching two different gauges while turning wrenches front and rear to bring the rear alignment where you want it.
A problem with the DSC recommendation is the stock toe links don't have enough adjustment to reach toe settings of 0 or any toe in. You are basically stuck with toe out. The Granatelli toe links will provide increased adjustment range. It takes a lot of time to get it right even when you have done the adjustment several times.
Bill
I had purchased wstaab's aluminum guide but I am trying to measure caster with the car on the floor and can't get my body in far enough to be able to hold the gauge against the adapter and read the gauge at the same time. That is when I bit the bullet and purchased the GM tool for $182. That lets me magnetically fasten my saw blade gauge to the adapter, pull my hand back, take a flashlight to light and read the gauge. .
As for the gauge you could purchase the GM gauge which is CH-47960 if you can find one on eBay for a reasonable price which would be in the mid $200s or you can use a saw blade angle gauge. There are several on the market that look they are made by the same company but are marketed under different names. I have the Wixey Digital Angle Gauge (WR300 Type 1). This gauge has a +/- 0.1 accuracy Vs the Type 2 having a +/- 0.2 accuracy. Since you are measuring caster that can vary between +0.8 to -0.8 and trying to set it either at GM's recommended 0.00 or DSC's +0.7 you want to have a gauge that is as accurate as possible. A +/-0.2 degree accuracy guarantees a 25% error right off the bat.
The advantage of the GM gauge is it takes some of the effort out of the measurement. When measuring with the saw blade gauge you have to remember which side of the car you are measuring as the gauge is reversed from side to side. The GM gauge has a setting for which side of the car you are on. With both gauges you need to have zero the gauge to the surface the car is on. That means a zero for each side of the car since the gauge reverses. I use a 6 ft long carpenter's level that I place on the floor next to the rear tire and running parallel with the tire. I place the Wixey on the level with the proper orientation for the side of the car I am working and hit zero. Then fasten the gauge to the adapter. If you are working on a 4 post rack with sufficiently wide runways for the tires it is much easier to make the measurement and to adjust caster/camber.
The front side of the rear LCA has more influence on Caster than it does on Camber while the rear side of the rear LCA has more influence on Camber than it does on Caster. It can be quite tricky watching two different gauges while turning wrenches front and rear to bring the rear alignment where you want it.
A problem with the DSC recommendation is the stock toe links don't have enough adjustment to reach toe settings of 0 or any toe in. You are basically stuck with toe out. The Granatelli toe links will provide increased adjustment range. It takes a lot of time to get it right even when you have done the adjustment several times.
Bill
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,080
Likes: 407
From: Mason Ohio
A problem with the DSC recommendation is the stock toe links don't have enough adjustment to reach toe settings of 0 or any toe in. You are basically stuck with toe out. The Granatelli toe links will provide increased adjustment range. It takes a lot of time to get it right even when you have done the adjustment several times.
Bill
Bill
Has anyone else had issues reaching DSC recommendations on toe?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,821
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
I was thinking about purchasing both the GM tool and a digital angle gauge for the rear caster meas.The digital gauge I was looking at was the Wixey WR300 Type 2 with magnetic base.According to your post you zero out the gauge on top of your carpenters level with base down or side down on the top of the level?? Sorry for the stupid ques.,just trying to picture how the digital gauge attaches to the GM tool......
Here is what the two look like together.
Bill
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 3,465
Likes: 650
they were able to achieve the toe calibrations on the rear without problem, but i should point out, we pulled out the spacers that DSC recommends are removed all the way around the car, a total of 16, between the frame and the control arm mounting bolts. I am not sure if this is why they request that the spacers are removed, or if it is for other purposes, but with them removed, we we able to get to 0.7 degrees. I have not had much chance to drive the car yet, but it feels great, like it is lighter on its feet, it is hard to explain it really.