Any tips for the break-in period?
#21
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Love that feature, so you won't damage the engine when it's cold! but is it pretty accurate and we can follow that? or let car warm up longer to be safe etc.
to let it totally warm up so you can redline it (oil temp 165F?) how long does that take driving around, almost 10 quarts that will take awhile I think?
to let it totally warm up so you can redline it (oil temp 165F?) how long does that take driving around, almost 10 quarts that will take awhile I think?
How long it takes for the oil to warm up to 150 varies with how you drive. If you drive with a little spirit it won't take more than 5 minutes or so. If you are heading out on track it won't take more than a mile and a half at a track warm up speed of 80 to 90 in 4th gear and 115 or so once you get to the first long straight. That also gets the tires warm so you can really get on it and get into the 150s the next lap.
Bill
#22
Instructor
Do you keep it under 3500 rpm the first 500 miles then keep it under 4000rpm from 500 to 1500 miles? Or keep it under 4k the whole 1500? because I am under 500 and the yellow warning line above rpm is at 3500rpm. Does it change from 3500 to 4000rpm from 499miles to 500 miles?
#23
Melting Slicks
Depends on what you mean by warm up. If you mean letting the car sit and idle that is a NO NO on any car. Start the engine, fasten seat belt get comfortable and drive away. Increase speed as engine warms.
How long it takes for the oil to warm up to 150 varies with how you drive. If you drive with a little spirit it won't take more than 5 minutes or so. If you are heading out on track it won't take more than a mile and a half at a track warm up speed of 80 to 90 in 4th gear and 115 or so once you get to the first long straight. That also gets the tires warm so you can really get on it and get into the 150s the next lap.
Bill
How long it takes for the oil to warm up to 150 varies with how you drive. If you drive with a little spirit it won't take more than 5 minutes or so. If you are heading out on track it won't take more than a mile and a half at a track warm up speed of 80 to 90 in 4th gear and 115 or so once you get to the first long straight. That also gets the tires warm so you can really get on it and get into the 150s the next lap.
Bill
So gotta drive it around and let the oil temp go up, (Hmm how about at drag strip, you drive there it's all warmed up, but waiting etc I usually go toward the end of the end when it's less people. For this case can I just let it sit and idle warm up ? since it was warmed up earlier couple hours ago) Also for Z06 150F is good enough for oil temp to redline it? And the oil temp, coolant temp and other temp stats from chevy are they accurate? Had some earlier sports cars and you always have to buy gauges since stock ones are always inaccurate.
Break-in period is very important right? Really need to pay attention and follow the manual. Else you lose some MPG, lose some HP etc. Oh how does stalling the car affect break-in period, I stalled like 7 times during a 3 hour drive. It almost either engages or stalls you can't tell if it catches etc. Friction point is also really low and my feet feels some other piece hitting the clutch or whatever when I am upshifting. need to get it checked out.
yeah don't go over 4k, from 0 to 1500 miles, that's what manual says. good luck. (did you get a good price? lucky break!)
Last edited by okaythen; 05-26-2017 at 07:13 AM.
#24
Instructor
79k out the door total [NO TAX] 2LT A8 (No Z07) - Few small add ons like Black rims - carbon fiber wing/mirrors and such. Was like 90k MSRP.
However, in the 2017 Owner's Manual it says this for 500 - 1500
"" For the first 2 414 km (1,500 mi):
. Do not participate in track
events, sport driving schools,
or similar activities.
. Check engine oil with every
refueling and add if necessary.
Oil and fuel consumption may be
higher than normal. ""
and this for
""For the first 800 km (500 mi):
. Avoid full throttle starts and
abrupt stops.
. Do not exceed 4000 rpm. ""
So does that mean I can exceed 4k rpm at 800 miles?
Last edited by taylosw; 05-26-2017 at 10:48 AM.
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Art17 (06-24-2017)
#25
Melting Slicks
no tax at all? how do you do that lol, that's awesome. Mine is also 2017 M7 I just got it 4 days ago! cheers.
Yeah I just read the break-in part again and I am not sure if you can floor it after 500 miles, to be safe I might go 1500 but if anyone can chime in that would be great!
also for the first 500 miles how about the throttle position? up to 50% 85%? as long as it's under 4000rpm or what throttle position is ok
Yeah I just read the break-in part again and I am not sure if you can floor it after 500 miles, to be safe I might go 1500 but if anyone can chime in that would be great!
also for the first 500 miles how about the throttle position? up to 50% 85%? as long as it's under 4000rpm or what throttle position is ok
#27
Instructor
no tax at all? how do you do that lol, that's awesome. Mine is also 2017 M7 I just got it 4 days ago! cheers.
Yeah I just read the break-in part again and I am not sure if you can floor it after 500 miles, to be safe I might go 1500 but if anyone can chime in that would be great!
also for the first 500 miles how about the throttle position? up to 50% 85%? as long as it's under 4000rpm or what throttle position is ok
Yeah I just read the break-in part again and I am not sure if you can floor it after 500 miles, to be safe I might go 1500 but if anyone can chime in that would be great!
also for the first 500 miles how about the throttle position? up to 50% 85%? as long as it's under 4000rpm or what throttle position is ok
But i definitely would like the answer to this question; as I will be driving it 400 miles and want to test some small limits
Last edited by taylosw; 05-26-2017 at 04:47 PM.
#28
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After 500 miles and first oil change you are good to go!
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Art17 (06-24-2017)
#30
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500 miles. At that point, you'll notice that the red line on the tach display changes, so you can take it up till it bounces off the rev limiter if you want.
Track use is a little different matter, involving long periods of high revs and high throttle openings like one would never see on the street, so that's probably why they recommend 1500 miles for that.
One of my gym buddies is a Ford engineer, and he recommends following whatever the manufacturer says regarding breakin, because their breakin recommendations are based on tons of testing, way beyond anecdotal.
We used to have a lot more GM and Ford and Mercedes engineers at the gym. Another gym must have hustled them, and I need to find out where they've gone.
Track use is a little different matter, involving long periods of high revs and high throttle openings like one would never see on the street, so that's probably why they recommend 1500 miles for that.
One of my gym buddies is a Ford engineer, and he recommends following whatever the manufacturer says regarding breakin, because their breakin recommendations are based on tons of testing, way beyond anecdotal.
We used to have a lot more GM and Ford and Mercedes engineers at the gym. Another gym must have hustled them, and I need to find out where they've gone.
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Art17 (06-24-2017)
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Art17 (06-24-2017)
#32
Le Mans Master
I'd still stick with the owner's manual, but one might also consider reviewing the break-in procedure for the LT4 crate motor. Here are the last several relevant steps. Note there are WOT applications but the RPM is still kept under 4K.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT)
or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new PF64 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT)
or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new PF64 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
Last edited by davepl; 05-26-2017 at 09:37 PM.
#33
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Congrats on the soon to arrive Black Rose, I've got the same color and love it!!
I did get slightly aggressive within the 4k mark on my break in once I dropped the initial factory oil at about 200 miles. I then went to the dealer and had them do the change again at 500 miles, then got right into it! I made it most of the way to 1500 before I hit the road course...
the car hardly burns any oil, runs GREAT!
Here's 2 teaser shots for you!
I did get slightly aggressive within the 4k mark on my break in once I dropped the initial factory oil at about 200 miles. I then went to the dealer and had them do the change again at 500 miles, then got right into it! I made it most of the way to 1500 before I hit the road course...
the car hardly burns any oil, runs GREAT!
Here's 2 teaser shots for you!
Last edited by jbsblownc5; 05-26-2017 at 10:16 PM.
#34
Melting Slicks
Don't use economy mode right ? because it will go into 4 cylinder mode. and any other modes are fine for break in. I used eco mode a few times during break-in then I read about it somewhere.
When oil temp isn't warmed up (150F) yet can you go as high as 3500rpm? or 4k? (for break in and in general) And the oil temperature the car provides it's pretty accurate?
So it is 500 miles then you can redline it, I was thinking 1500 is too long heh because I just do local roads since highway you pretty much stay the same speed and rpm.
taylosw also make sure the previous owner changed the oil at 500 before you gun on it!
When oil temp isn't warmed up (150F) yet can you go as high as 3500rpm? or 4k? (for break in and in general) And the oil temperature the car provides it's pretty accurate?
So it is 500 miles then you can redline it, I was thinking 1500 is too long heh because I just do local roads since highway you pretty much stay the same speed and rpm.
taylosw also make sure the previous owner changed the oil at 500 before you gun on it!
#35
Drifting
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...t=darin+morgan
Go drive and enjoy your car... Dont be the next "oh my brakes are squeaking, with only 300 miles" guys/gals...
Go drive and enjoy your car... Dont be the next "oh my brakes are squeaking, with only 300 miles" guys/gals...
#36
Instructor
Don't use economy mode right ? because it will go into 4 cylinder mode. and any other modes are fine for break in. I used eco mode a few times during break-in then I read about it somewhere.
When oil temp isn't warmed up (150F) yet can you go as high as 3500rpm? or 4k? (for break in and in general) And the oil temperature the car provides it's pretty accurate?
So it is 500 miles then you can redline it, I was thinking 1500 is too long heh because I just do local roads since highway you pretty much stay the same speed and rpm.
taylosw also make sure the previous owner changed the oil at 500 before you gun on it!
When oil temp isn't warmed up (150F) yet can you go as high as 3500rpm? or 4k? (for break in and in general) And the oil temperature the car provides it's pretty accurate?
So it is 500 miles then you can redline it, I was thinking 1500 is too long heh because I just do local roads since highway you pretty much stay the same speed and rpm.
taylosw also make sure the previous owner changed the oil at 500 before you gun on it!
He definitely did! Thank you very much for looking out!
#37
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...t=darin+morgan
Go drive and enjoy your car... Dont be the next "oh my brakes are squeaking, with only 300 miles" guys/gals...
Go drive and enjoy your car... Dont be the next "oh my brakes are squeaking, with only 300 miles" guys/gals...
Here's another link to a techish article which recommends loading the engine pretty hard right away.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
In a nutshell, you're trying to achieve a good piston ring seal during that narrow window of opportunity when there's still some roughness on the cylinder walls, and before a glaze builds up. This is claimed to produce more power, less blowby, and reduced oil consumption. The arguments and photos in the second link are pretty compelling.
While I was familiar with these arguments, I decided to go by the recommendations in the owners manual instead, based on what the Ford engineer gym buddy who I mentioned earlier said. He's worked on many high-performance projects like the Shelby Mustangs, and also builds race engines on the outside, so he's not exactly talking out his **** either.
Which is truly better? I wish I knew.
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Art17 (06-24-2017)
#38
Drifting
The guy in your link works for Reher Morrison Racing engines, so he's certainly no dummy.
Here's another link to a techish article which recommends loading the engine pretty hard right away.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
In a nutshell, you're trying to achieve a good piston ring seal during that narrow window of opportunity when there's still some roughness on the cylinder walls, and before a glaze builds up. This is claimed to produce more power, less blowby, and reduced oil consumption. The arguments and photos in the second link are pretty compelling.
While I was familiar with these arguments, I decided to go by the recommendations in the owners manual instead, based on what the Ford engineer gym buddy who I mentioned earlier said. He's worked on many high-performance projects like the Shelby Mustangs, and also builds race engines on the outside, so he's not exactly talking out his **** either.
Which is truly better? I wish I knew.
Here's another link to a techish article which recommends loading the engine pretty hard right away.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
In a nutshell, you're trying to achieve a good piston ring seal during that narrow window of opportunity when there's still some roughness on the cylinder walls, and before a glaze builds up. This is claimed to produce more power, less blowby, and reduced oil consumption. The arguments and photos in the second link are pretty compelling.
While I was familiar with these arguments, I decided to go by the recommendations in the owners manual instead, based on what the Ford engineer gym buddy who I mentioned earlier said. He's worked on many high-performance projects like the Shelby Mustangs, and also builds race engines on the outside, so he's not exactly talking out his **** either.
Which is truly better? I wish I knew.
Worst case scenario though is hopping on the highway at 70 and cruising for 500 miles at 1,500 RPM... Quite a few people do this and consider it a good, safe break in period.
#39
Melting Slicks
go through all the rpm and up to 4k right (when warmed up) if cold go up to 3k, 3500.
And when going up to 4k just do it normal right like any cars during normal driving? 20% throttle or so up to 4k. Will that hang at too high of rpm for too long and one should put more than 20% throttle?
also do local roads right? highway you pretty much stay at the same or around the same rpm.
And when going up to 4k just do it normal right like any cars during normal driving? 20% throttle or so up to 4k. Will that hang at too high of rpm for too long and one should put more than 20% throttle?
also do local roads right? highway you pretty much stay at the same or around the same rpm.
Last edited by okaythen; 06-10-2017 at 03:27 PM.