Babaron

So, here's my situation: I am an occasional tracker, nothing radical, maybe a 7/10 driver that just goes for fun and to give the Z a little workout once in a while in a safe environment.

I have had Castrol React fluid in it for the past 16 months and understand:

-- it should be flushed at least every 18 months.
--shelf life is 2 yrs.
--wet BP is 270 deg C
--the min required for the Z is dry BP of 279 deg C.

I have 2 unopened bottles of the stuff on the shelf but I noticed that the date on both bottles is Oct 29, 2014.

Here's my question: Should I shell out almost $70 each for another bottle or 2 or should I just flush with what I have.

Thoughts?

Painrace

Spend the $70. You don't want any brake issues!

Jim

Joezone914

Get fresh non-expired fluid. You can save a little with motul but safety first. Fresh fluid.

rikhek

As you stated the Castrol SRF PDS states the fluid has a shelf life of 2 years:

http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/Fu...RAE-9JHJ6D.pdf

If you're not going to use it I'll buy it from you. PM or email me at rheck@***.net.

To answer your question I would not hesitate to use it out of an unopened bottle. If you sell it to me I'll make sure it gets "disposed" of in a proper manner.

Also, for your usage as described SRF is a waste of your money. ATE brake fluid or something similar will work just fine. I ran my car fairly hard with street tires and had no issues with ATE at Hallett. Hallett is notoriously hard on brakes. When I switched to slicks I switched to SRF. Interesting that my C6Z needed SRF even on street tires at Hallett. Not so with the C7Z.

You might find this helpful:

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.799/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1 (pre 2006) ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($21.49/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($79.99/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600 ($17.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660 ($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650 ($33.00/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660 ($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid ($39.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($20.25/0.5L 16.9 OZ)
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335 ($45.00/1.0L 33.8 OZ)
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 ($39.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid (new since 2009)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 (new since 2010)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

AVETTE

I am with Jim and he is a pro, don't use the old stuff, it does matter

Bill Dearborn

Since the Castrol only has a two year shelf life go with a brake fluid that has a higher 500 into the low 600 DRY Boiling Point. The Castrol is a lot of money to throw down the drain and you can get just as good or better fluid performance from Wilwood EXP 600, AP Racing Fluid or Ferodo fluid. Change the fluid just before the event and you will be operating with dry boiling point fluid as it takes a while for moisture to absorb into the fluid.

Bill

Babaron

Thanks for all the advice. The main reason I chose SRF is the "use life" of 18 months. All the other fluids I checked out at the time needed to be changed out after only a few months at most. If there is another, less-expensive, fluid that has a similar "use life" as SRF, I would switch. My work schedule is somewhat crazy so when an opportunity to hit the track arises, I like to have the car track-ready and not have to do a flush every time I go. I keep 15W-50 in it for this reason as well. (It's in a heated garage and it never gets driven in winter.)

Babaron

Well, it's game over for now. Got all set up to do the flush this am. Stripped a lugnut on the 1st wheel I went to remove. So frustrating.

Onto YouTube to see if removing it is something I can do or have to take to dealer.

Bill Dearborn

Explain a little more on stripped lug nut. Do you mean the thin metal sheathing on the outside of the lug nut came off? If so one of the ways to resolve this is to buy a cheap socket one size smaller than the lug nut normally takes and use a BFH to hammer the socket onto the nut and then use a hand tool to remove the socket. If it has been some time since the lug nuts were removed they can sometimes develop corrosive bonds (due to dissimilar metals) with the aluminum wheels. When that happens it can take a hell of a lot of force to get them off. I had one of my cars that I took to a tire shop where the guys used a socket pounded on the nut and a long breaker bar with a pipe over it. To get the nut loose it took two beefy guys jumping on the pipe to break it loose. When it came loose it sounded like somebody fired a rifle.

Bill

Babaron

Bill, the sheath did come off but then when I went to remove the lugnut, it stripped. I tried hammering an 11/16th socket on but it wouldn't seat. Going to Advanced Auto now to pick up a reverse thread socket and try that.

Babaron

Bill, thanks for the advice. I tried the threaded socket but it didn't work I then tried the 11/16th only hammering harder this time and that did the trick! I was then able to complete the job.