Surely someone has had this problem before so please advise. Getting my MGW today so began to get everything off in preparation. 1st damn step of removing OE ****-no can do. Their video shows the collar so easily slipping off, not mine. The leather boot is spinning w/o the collar moving. Tried to get tiny bit of WD40 in there but no go on it loosening. Tried carefully wrapping a mf cloth over it to use channel locks with very little pressure on the ring so not to bend it-no go! Been waiting on MGW support to call back for a hour-no go. Not blaming them since it's my boot collar that won't loosen. Beginning to think when pkg gets here I'll just turn it around & send back. Sure hope they don't try to hit me w/restocking fee of 20% as stated on their site, since I won't even open box. Please help if any ideas come to you, ready to try anything but damaging my boot. THANKS!

 

Yes, mine was the same way. In the video, that car has been taken apart before, and after you do yours, it will be very easy from then on too.

What you need to do is get a towel and wrap it around the collar to protect it. Then get a large set of pliers/vicegrips and gently clamp the collar and then rotate it 90 degrees. After that it will be very easy to twist back and forth by hand.

Just don't squeeze too hard with the pliers. I used vice grips and set them so it was fully clamped but with very little pressure. Then I was easily able to twist it to turn.

 

I tried channel locks but was a no go. Scared to clamp too tightly & bend collar. Will try vice grips. Even thought about prying boot collar down over collar to expose it but really don't want to go there, might stretch it out & not fit when slip it back up & over collar. Still no call from MGW-great!

 

[QUOTE=08G8V8;1595029642]Yes, mine was the same way. In the video, that car has been taken apart before, and after you do yours, it will be very easy from then on too:::: Dude, You da Man. Tried vice grips & wha-la, easy peasy! Thanks so much!

 

You know, when I received my new MGW, I toyed with the idea of changing it over myself. Then I woke up and had the dealer's Corvette mechanic change it. Keep in mind, if you got the normal shifter ( not the flat stick), you can vary the height of the shift **** about an inch or a little more...at the lowest position it's the same as the stock shifter height. Best $90 I could have spent, I sat there and looked at the girls and then drove home.

 

No problem. I was in your shoes when I did mine, and I kept saying "it looks so easy in the video, why isn't mine working".

Glad you got it and hope all goes smooth with the remaining install.

 

This is more for the people yet to install this. Use those videos. When I pulled the lower box OE shift bar, just like the video stated-check for burrs/rough spots. Sure enough, right where the plastic bushings contact the rod there were significant burrs that I gently removed using 600 fine sandpaper. Wish there had been video showing how you have to pry the old lower box out where the rubber grommets had stuck to the base-oh well. UPS just showed & I have everything ready to start early in am. Thanks to everyone again!

 

Let us know when you are finished and how the install went,

 

I installed mine myself and it was kinda easy. Struggled to pull the **** off but it came off with a few tries by hand. Forgot how now but, you should do it yourself. It's not something that requires precision or extreme skills. Good way to learn about the car just in case one day you want to reverse it back to stock.

 

The other problem I ran into was the video says to disassemble with the car in 4th gear to provide more room to disassemble. When I went to install the shifter and use the alignment tool, the slot in the shifter cable was nowhere near lining up. I couldn't figure out why. They don't tell you, or maybe I missed it, but make sure you shift to neutral before removing the stock box and don't leave in 4th. I had to re-install partially to shift to neutral.

Just a heads up. Hadn't seen anybody else mention this, so maybe I'm the only dumb one!

 

All righty! Just finished assembly & fixing to go for a ride! Just some hints, (I get it most of you are smarter than me). Here is some take it or leave it suggestions: 1. Take inside trim all off before even opening box in case you have to return to avoid restocking fee or just decide to give up. 2. Mark all electrical connections in car as you remove. 3.Lay white towel/blanket over pass. seat to protect it & make seeing tools/hardware etc. easier. 4. Snack bags to separate all removed bolts/nuts, etc marking by where they go. 5.Go slow-Do one step at a time using video just before doing. There are critical procedures at some points. 6. Test fit all sticky pads before removing backing to get a feel for how/where they go. 7. Last make sure all gears can be engaged before replacing trim pcs. 7th & reverse nearly impossible to check w/o putting shifter on temporarily to get leverage (it raises the pivot point). For me-Duh-I rate it a 7 to do. An observation for those considering this upgrade. The OE lower unit & bottom of shifter rod is a piece of crap. The "ball" that engages the OE cutout in lower box is a plastic cup. I'm not ragging on GM, I realize these are still mass produced cars & these parts are contracted out to save bucks but compared to new unit (all parts)-WOW! As someone else stated is like working a slick rifle bolt now. Of course this has no effect on "tranny" problems like grinding between 1-2 when cold or such. That's warranty work! Thanks to all for giving me advice.

 

Well-written post above with cautions!

 

Same problem as other folks, leather boot turns but shift **** does not. In the end I pulled the boot straight down over the shift **** collar. Then I used a crescent wrench which fits snugly on to the collar in order to turn it the required 90 degrees. When reinstalling the boot, you will need a 6 inch x 1/8 inch tie strap to re-fasten the boot around the groove in the collar (inside out) then turn the boot outside in.