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Hi all, I'm receiving my DSC controller today and had a few questions to the owners if that is ok.
1) once I plug in the module I am hearing people "zeroing" out the ride height sensor (I didn't know this car had that.) And "zeroing" out the shocks. Is this action necessary/recommended?
2) I understand there are different tunes for each PTM mode (tour sport track etc.) are there different tunes for each sub setting under the Track mode? Ie. A different tune for each (sport 1 sport 2 and race)? And is there a specific tune with all the nannies off?
Hi all, I'm receiving my DSC controller today and had a few questions to the owners if that is ok.
1) once I plug in the module I am hearing people "zeroing" out the ride height sensor (I didn't know this car had that.) And "zeroing" out the shocks. Is this action necessary/recommended?
2) I understand there are different tunes for each PTM mode (tour sport track etc.) are there different tunes for each sub setting under the Track mode? Ie. A different tune for each (sport 1 sport 2 and race)? And is there a specific tune with all the nannies off?
Thanks for the help !
Download the DSC tuner software. It is self explanatory as to what is being modified and how you can change it. It has nothing to do with nannies.
Plan on providing a USB mini to USB cable if you want to change things. Currently the wifi does not operate properly to upload/download the user adjustable inputs. You can connect but data transfers do not fully complete and the data amount transferred changes trial by trial.
with ronsc1985. Go to www.dscsport.com and download the tuning software so you have it ready when you get your controller. It will come with all current calibration files, but you'll still need to zero your ride height.
1) There are sensors on the mag shocks - they're needed to measure rate and amount of shock movement. When you "zero" the ride height, all you're doing is telling the controller what the static ("neutral") setting is, so it can tell how far and fast the shock is moving from that "zero" position.
So...you MUST zero the ride height so the controller knows how far and fast the shock is moving, and whether it's in compression or rebound!
2) There are 5 "Drive" modes: Weather, Eco, Tour, Sport, Track. When you go into Track you are able to select PTM modes. So...PTM is only associated with the Track mode.
You can see below that with the DSC controller you can program 3 drive modes: Tour, Sport, Track - and below Track is selected
You can see above that there are a number of different items you can click on to make adjustments to the calibration for that feature, and one of them is "PTM".
The picture above is with "Settings" selected - that's where you click the drive mode you want to configure, and I have Track selected (you can tell by the blue background - Tour and Sport have different colors to confirm which mode you have selected and are trying to program).
Below you can see that I selected PTM and you can make adjustments to the various PTM sub-modes that you can select when you go into the Track drive mode. If you select PTM when you have the DSC controller software set to program Tour or Sport, you'll get a blank page - because the PTM sub-modes are only available in Track.
The screenshots are with a DSC calibration loaded, and you can see that in Sport 2 all the shock settings show 0.0% (and all the other PTM were 0.0% as well). I don't know anything yet about doing my own programming, but I think this is where you could make adjustments to the Shock Calibration to fine tune it for each different PTM mode - otherwise Sport 1, Sport 2, and Race would all be the same.
Bottom line:
1) You need to "zero" the ride height so the controller knows what the zero/neutral position is for your car with you sitting in it.
2) You can make adjustments for the various Track sub-modes if you go to the PTM page after having selected Track in "settings".
Nannies (Active Handling) is off in Sport 2 and Race. To my knowledge, none of the canned tunes put out by DSC have any calibration differences for the various Track sub-modes, but you could definitely do that yourself to fine tune the controller for your driving style, and any particular track.
This is very great information. Thank you both very much for the detailed responses. I greatly appreciate it!!
Originally Posted by BEZ06
with ronsc1985. Go to www.dscsport.com and download the tuning software so you have it ready when you get your controller. It will come with all current calibration files, but you'll still need to zero your ride height.
1) There are sensors on the mag shocks - they're needed to measure rate and amount of shock movement. When you "zero" the ride height, all you're doing is telling the controller what the static ("neutral") setting is, so it can tell how far and fast the shock is moving from that "zero" position.
So...you MUST zero the ride height so the controller knows how far and fast the shock is moving, and whether it's in compression or rebound!
2) There are 5 "Drive" modes: Weather, Eco, Tour, Sport, Track. When you go into Track you are able to select PTM modes. So...PTM is only associated with the Track mode.
You can see below that with the DSC controller you can program 3 drive modes: Tour, Sport, Track - and below Track is selected
You can see above that there are a number of different items you can click on to make adjustments to the calibration for that feature, and one of them is "PTM".
The picture above is with "Settings" selected - that's where you click the drive mode you want to configure, and I have Track selected (you can tell by the blue background - Tour and Sport have different colors to confirm which mode you have selected and are trying to program).
Below you can see that I selected PTM and you can make adjustments to the various PTM sub-modes that you can select when you go into the Track drive mode. If you select PTM when you have the DSC controller software set to program Tour or Sport, you'll get a blank page - because the PTM sub-modes are only available in Track.
The screenshots are with a DSC calibration loaded, and you can see that in Sport 2 all the shock settings show 0.0% (and all the other PTM were 0.0% as well). I don't know anything yet about doing my own programming, but I think this is where you could make adjustments to the Shock Calibration to fine tune it for each different PTM mode - otherwise Sport 1, Sport 2, and Race would all be the same.
Bottom line:
1) You need to "zero" the ride height so the controller knows what the zero/neutral position is for your car with you sitting in it.
2) You can make adjustments for the various Track sub-modes if you go to the PTM page after having selected Track in "settings".
Nannies (Active Handling) is off in Sport 2 and Race. To my knowledge, none of the canned tunes put out by DSC have any calibration differences for the various Track sub-modes, but you could definitely do that yourself to fine tune the controller for your driving style, and any particular track.
When I spoke to DSC I was told (perhaps I misunderstood) that it was not necessary to do anything other than plugging the unit it. That is what I did (no zero out of shocks or hooking up of computer). I am definitely a novice with regard to the DSC controller so I may be way off base here. However, after I plugged it in, did the DSC suggested track alignment, and installed new Pilot SS tires I was able to cut my lap times at Heartland Park from a 2:04 to a 1:54. Perhaps the alignment shop did something to offset not zeroing prior to use?
When I spoke to DSC I was told (perhaps I misunderstood) that it was not necessary to do anything other than plugging the unit it. That is what I did (no zero out of shocks or hooking up of computer). I am definitely a novice with regard to the DSC controller so I may be way off base here. However, after I plugged it in, did the DSC suggested track alignment, and installed new Pilot SS tires I was able to cut my lap times at Heartland Park from a 2:04 to a 1:54. Perhaps the alignment shop did something to offset not zeroing prior to use?
Really need to zero the shocks Dave; I'm so sorry if I didn't mention that although I thought I had. Regardless its easy to do so.
This isn't a big deal. You park the car on a level piece of ground, hook a cable between the mini USB port on the controller and a USB port on your computer on which you have loaded the DEC tuner software. You then hunt for the button that says zero shocks, hit the enter button and you're done.
The only possible trouble is if the port numbers don't match. There is a tab in the software which allows you to match port numbers as described in the software user manual.
As to whether you need this it would seem to me that since you are to sit in the drivers seat, people with different body masses would get slightly different zero readings.
In my case this was a minor PITA since I was led to believe the wifi worked so I didn't install the USB cable initially and had to remove the controller again. The software returns from trying to zero the shocks didn't give me a warm feeling that it worked via WiFi.
As with most things on cars once you have accomplished the task the first time, repeats go a lot faster.
This isn't a big deal. You park the car on a level piece of ground, hook a cable between the mini USB port on the controller and a USB port on your computer on which you have loaded the DEC tuner software. You then hunt for the button that says zero shocks, hit the enter button and you're done...
Correct - but you also must have power to the shocks. So either start the car, or put it into the service mode (without stepping on the clutch or brake - so the car won't start, push and HOLD the start button until the electrical system powers up as if the car was running).
Correct - but you also must have power to the shocks. So either start the car, or put it into the service mode (without stepping on the clutch or brake - so the car won't start, push and HOLD the start button until the electrical system powers up as if the car was running).
In order to use the software the car has to be on or in service mode to power the controller or it has no way to communicate with your computer.
If you want to see if the controller is active just look for the WiFi signal on the wireless network connection page in Windows. It is named DSC something.
That said the wifi access method does not operate properly although the signal is rather strong anywhere near or in the car.
I have no issue with the WiFi to do anything except upload whole entire files, which is not the point of suspension tuning. Proper suspension tuning should be done one variable at a time and you can upload small sections rather than whole files over the WiFi.
I have no issue with the WiFi to do anything except upload whole entire files, which is not the point of suspension tuning. Proper suspension tuning should be done one variable at a time and you can upload small sections rather than whole files over the WiFi.
That's nonsense. One of the things you might want to do is change from the base pdts calibration file to the touring plush or VIR file.
The long and short of it is if the WIFI software can't handle transferring 7KB or so length files correctly you have no certainty it transfers anything correctly.
That's nonsense. One of the things you might want to do is change from the base pdts calibration file to the touring plush or VIR file.
The long and short of it is if the WIFI software can't handle transferring 7KB or so length files correctly you have no certainty it transfers anything correctly.
it's not nonsense if you install the correct file before you install the controller. set it up before you install it. put the "VIR" file in with plush touring settings and then you have both. are you running VIR in Touring mode or driving on the street with VIR Track mode?
would it be better if the wifi could transfer data like your home or work network? of course.
it's not nonsense if you install the correct file before you install the controller. set it up before you install it. put the "VIR" file in with plush touring settings and then you have both. are you running VIR in Touring mode or driving on the street with VIR Track mode?
would it be better if the wifi could transfer data like your home or work network? of course.
wait, there is an entire tune specific to VIR only??
So when I go to VIR, I can load That "file" I presume which overwrites the existing track file ? Then I can reload the file it came with and overwrite the VIR for when I go to another track?
wait, there is an entire tune specific to VIR only??
So when I go to VIR, I can load That "file" I presume which overwrites the existing track file ? Then I can reload the file it came with and overwrite the VIR for when I go to another track?
someone made settings for what worked best for them at VIR. technically anyone could do that for whatever track they are using.
the nice thing about having files we can change and share is just that, everyone can benefit.
you can mix and match criteria, as mentioned, you don't have to run the "plush" file and then upload the "VIR" file, you can just upload the Touring section of the plush file and the Track section of the VIR file and have both in the car at the same time.
the whole idea (at least for me) is NOT constantly changing files. if you change tracks a lot then you can just upload the Track section that corresponds to the track you are using (if you create more than one), leaving "Plush Touring" in forever.
someone made settings for what worked best for them at VIR. technically anyone could do that for whatever track they are using.
the nice thing about having files we can change and share is just that, everyone can benefit.
you can mix and match criteria, as mentioned, you don't have to run the "plush" file and then upload the "VIR" file, you can just upload the Touring section of the plush file and the Track section of the VIR file and have both in the car at the same time.
the whole idea (at least for me) is NOT constantly changing files. if you change tracks a lot then you can just upload the Track section that corresponds to the track you are using (if you create more than one), leaving "Plush Touring" in forever.
Impressive sir! Thank you very much for the info! I truly appreciate it!,
it's not nonsense if you install the correct file before you install the controller. set it up before you install it. put the "VIR" file in with plush touring settings and then you have both. are you running VIR in Touring mode or driving on the street with VIR Track mode?
would it be better if the wifi could transfer data like your home or work network? of course.
How is it you know the correct file before you ever use it?
What you really need as a minimum is a USB mini to USB cable to do the initial load unless you have the factory load something for you. Currently if you wish to make a file of your current controller pdts file you need a USB cable since attempting to store your current pdts in a data set using wifi results in a pdts file with null readings that cannot be read using the DEC tuner software.
If you attempt to load a pdts file one section at a time using wifi. some sections load completely while others will not. Whether they complete or not is kind of random since they stall at different data counts. Once in awhile they even complete.
Unless you care to screw around with this uncertainty and decreased software functionality spending a few bucks for a cable and some minimal time installing said cable seems to be the prudent choice.
I haven't attempted to record using either cable or wifi but given the inability of the current wifi software to even download and store the current pdts file resident in the controller I wouldn't bet any money on a successful recording using the wifi software. Several people have successfully recorded using the USB cable interface.
It's kind of a shame the wifi software is currently so poor. Although wifi connections had a sometimes bad rep it's usually because of signal interference from people using the same or adjacent channels. The basic send and receive wifi software is about as simple as it gets in the communications arena.
I did recommend to DSC they make provisions to select the wifi channel you are using for those people in high wifi usage areas. You could then use any number of free channel sniffers to discern if the channel you are attempting to use has other networks trying to use the same channels with sufficient signal strength at your location to cause potential no receives or dropouts.
07-13-2017, 09:41 AM
DSC controller questions to owners
with ronsc1985. Go to www.dscsport.com and download the tuning software so you have it ready when you get your controller. It will come with all current calibration files, but you'll still need to zero your ride height.
