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The Whipple will make a lot more torque off of the hit, and the Procharger will usually make more horsepower up top. If you choose to overspin a Procharger and you can control the heat the HP curve is only going to keep going up.
It really depends on what you do with the car. Here is a dyno graph comparison of an F1A-94 at on an LT4 and a Whipple on an LT4. Both had very similar mods and were at 18 PSI on pump gas. I hope this helps!
light red/light blue: Procharger F1A-94
dark red/dark blue: Whipple 2.9
Wow! So the pro charger doesn't chatch up until 6k rpm? The Whipple is very impressive...
Hey Ben, i searched the net for pictures of the inside of the 2.9 and its cooling blocks, couldn't find any. Do you guys have any pictures? I would like to see how its laid out. Thanks, Mike
Hey Ben, i searched the net for pictures of the inside of the 2.9 and its cooling blocks, couldn't find any. Do you guys have any pictures? I would like to see how its laid out. Thanks, Mike
It's laid out the same as the LT4 Eaton blower only the bricks are about twice as wide!
Also, I saw you're weighing options on port injection. If you don't want a tank tap pump kit, we can pair the Fore kit with our port injection. There is so much misinformation going on in that other thread, I'm not even getting into it LOL but I have a ZR1, I have control over the pump, have ran E85, and I can tell you with absolute certainty that pump will NOT support 1000whp on E85 with a PD blower. A turbo is a lot less parasitic, and the fuel demand for a belt driven blower is much higher. That's the same reason, you see a lot of these other DI pump and injectors on turbo engine dynos. The required fuel delivery down low is instantaneous on a PD blower vs a turbo/centri and the line pump takes a hit and the rail is depleted as a result. Our port setup is anything but cheap like some of these guys are trying to elude to, we're just not selling stand alone kits to the masses that only need a simple injector driver. It does everything a stand alone does including bank to bank fueling with dual WB control, auto correct fueling, learning fuel control, additional ports for nitrous/meth triggers, it operates our new chiller kit, etc. The only thing it doesn't do is traction control and boost by gear etc which you're paying thousands for the difference on the controller and likely another grand or two to install and tune that. We offer the Pro verison which has all of that and it's installed in-house and that controller on my ZL1 and was on the record setting gen 3 CTS V as well and we can harness that up tomorrow if there was a demand for it, but it's really overkill for most.
It's laid out the same as the LT4 Eaton blower only the bricks are about twice as wide!
Also, I saw you're weighing options on port injection.
port injection as well as port extraction
I would like to see the intercooler bricks on the 2.9 when you get a chance. You wont be able to describe to me what I need to see. Don't worry, i wont blast your product, i need to see something for my own understanding of something.
I would like to see the intercooler bricks on the 2.9 when you get a chance. You wont be able to describe to me what I need to see. Don't worry, i wont blast your product, i need to see something for my own understanding of something.
and twice as deep.....
find me on IG and ill send you a pic "Colinzo6" the "o" is not a zero
long story short... the stock c7 blowers have cooling bricks that have "fins" the coolant flows through, on the windshield side of the blower. If one wanted to attach a small port to be able to bleed the air out of the top of the cooling bricks, it would be a soldering extravaganza/nightmare. A person would have to weld on many tiny ports, i think like 12 or more, and then build a collector where each line collects... nightmare...
Meanwhile, the bricks of the whipple 2.9, their cooling fins dont extend all the way to the windshield side of the blower, instead, there is the "collector" where the passages/fins all dump and re-unite. This means one can use a single normal size port, to tap into the cooling brick at that spot, and be able to bleed the system.
One would want to mount a air tight tank that is equal level to the port holes, off the side of the blower. I have figured out how the coolant/air hard line(s) would exit the blower. This small tank outside the blower can then be bled to see how much air collects in any given amount of time.
I think the results will surprise people. This also keeps air from collecting inside the bricks, as it now has a place to escape to.
once this is done, and people see how much air is collected, the whipple 2.9 will have a huge advantage over the stock bower, for that benefit alone... as the 2.9 bricks can be tapped into with 1 port on each brick, and the stock lt4 bricks are going to need many many ports soldered to each one of the fins, and it would be a nightmare.
One can also then run a thermostat from those ports, and know when the stock GM water pump for this system shuts off for 3 min at a time.
Knowing when the pump is off, keeps a person from melting the bricks, as I have leaned from other forum members, actually occurs, and i bet melting of the bricks occurs even easier on the 2.9 than the lt4 blower. Power equals heat.
It will also make bleeding the system a dream, and by keeping air out of the rest of the system is how one keeps the water/coolant pump from experiencing cavitation.
Below are videos of the current nightmare process to bleed the system...
Stock lt4 blower and bricks, left side is windshield side of blower, and highest point in the system. Blades/fins on cooling bricks don't unite to a single collector at the end of the brick. Nightmare to port
Whipple below... Cooling brick fins unite into a single collector on each brick by windshield. Ports can easily be installed to bleed the system from the highest point, and attach a air capture res tank off to one side of the blower
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If you are asking for dyno numbers, that is a question for Ben at weaponX, his graphs of the 2300 should be the ones you examine, as those graphs will be apples to apples in dyno calibration as the whipple 2.9 graphs you are looking at. The 2.9 makes more power, no doubt about it.
If you are asking in reference to my "brick porting" idea to get air out of the supercharger cooling system via a bleed valve and res, well that will be best answered if we can get a great shot of a 2300 with its lid off. The 2300 appears to have a bleed valve on one of its external coolant lines. The question of course is... is that bleed port the highest point in the system?... and can air remain in the bricks after that is bled?
And even IF someone got all the air out of the 2300 bricks, what is to keep air from nesting in those cooling bricks as air develops in the system as the car is being driven. Ideally, a great system will always have a capture port/line at its highest point, running to an air res tank, that captures the air, and can be bled out at a later time.
if you can get me a clear photo of the bricks, i should be able to make an educated guess.
I wont know for sure until i drill into the first bricks collection chamber to tap it... might have internal architecture that supports my plan, might not.
And that is IF it even has a collection chamber in the correct spot
05-22-2018, 05:15 PM
