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Old 03-05-2018, 04:11 PM
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3 Z06ZR1
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Default Houston we have a problem!

Seems old Co speed was preaching and we should have listened.

My Z06 Charger on the unside bottom of the internal intercoolers and the valves show pretty bad build up.
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:14 PM
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I'll be calling David at (M&M Mighty mouse. He has the fix to stop this correctly! Need buy 2 kits add to my 2017 as well before it starts down this path.

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-05-2018 at 05:53 PM.
Old 03-05-2018, 04:16 PM
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The 2015 will get a top end cleaning and new 2300 blower and the fix for no more oil to the intake. The 2017 gets the fix too.
Old 03-05-2018, 04:17 PM
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The port injection is making sense!

Glad my 2016 toyota and 2018 Audi both have port and direct injection

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-05-2018 at 04:19 PM.
Old 03-05-2018, 04:52 PM
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In this other thread you were opposed to the catch can and venting.

Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1
IMO
Snake oil for your Z06. GM is not having the issue that many Di engines do.

My blower was removed at 10k and they were clean and now it next week I'm swapping blowers @29k this time to the 2300.
So I will get photo's up. So we can see!
Other like Toyota and my coming new Audi have port and Di injection both to solve the issue.
Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1
I love the 5.3 in my Sierra. I posted pictures of my lt4 valves @ 10k they looked good over a year ago.

My 2016 Toyota and 2018 Audi RS (coming) both have DI and port injection.
Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1
Doesn't relieve any pressure plus venting to atmosphere is illegal and cheesy at best.
At least your coming clean.
Old 03-05-2018, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by djnice
In this other thread you were opposed to the catch can and venting.







At least your coming clean.
Yeah right!
Least I actually work on my own cars. I also have an idea how this stuff works Do you?

At 10,000 miles it seemed it was no issue. I spent 500 plus on Catch cans hours of playing with them ended up with the junk still on the shelf

The snake oil depends on the catch can design and installing the catch can in itself can be snake oil if it doesn't work.
Gluing your PVC shut was a stupid idea. MM doesn't do that!


I feel I need the Mighty Mouse solution. All more than JUST a catch can. Just ordered two full kits from Mighty Mouse!
he is the one who put more effort than anyone to fix the issue. I bought an "Elite Catch can" and an all the stuff and it was snake oil. Filled with far too much oil that was clean. I played with it and it never worked right.
Old 03-05-2018, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by djnice
In this other thread you were opposed to the catch can and venting.







At least your coming clean.
Gluing the PVC closed is not a good fix in my mind.
Ok I was a little hard on them they all working on the same issue. Just ordered two complete set-ups for the Mighty Mouse Solution! David has really done really well on tackling this issue
in the correct way. Glad I caught this now!

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-05-2018 at 06:53 PM.
Old 03-05-2018, 06:47 PM
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I like the MM can design. Do you still have to pull the lid to plug the hole? I can't remember.

I just thought it was funny that with all the reports, including yours at 10,000 miles, I was starting to think I don't need a can on the Z. Just seems like lots of opposition in that other thread. Now a week later we are back to needing one with what looks like proof of an issue. I don't know, maybe the buildup you are seeing wouldn't hurt anything before you do a rebuild anyway?

I like the vented can, but you made fun of that too. Are the MM cans still vented or do they have another solution to that now?

Last edited by djnice; 03-05-2018 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by djnice
I like the MM can design. Do you still have to pull the lid to plug the hole? I can't remember.

I just thought it was funny that with all the reports, including yours at 10,000 miles, I was starting to think I don't need a can on the Z. Just seems like lots of opposition in that other thread. Now a week later we are back to needing one with what looks like proof of an issue. I don't know, maybe the buildup you are seeing wouldn't hurt anything before you do a rebuild anyway?

I like the vented can, but you made fun of that too. Are the MM cans still vented or do they have another solution to that now?
Nope with the M&M you get a fitting so the main crankcase still has proper evacuation.
Will not plug or glue the PVC closed tried that 3 years ago. Not good answer in my book.

I was thinking it wouldn't be a major issue where it is sort of is more so to the intercooler, but now I do.
Port injection is not affix for the intercooler getting oil.









imo

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-05-2018 at 07:06 PM.
Old 03-05-2018, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1
Seems old Co speed was preaching and we should have listened.

My Z06 Charger on the unside bottom of the internal intercoolers and the valves show pretty bad build up.
Agree!
It sure is building up! A top end cleaner should help clean that up, but I would do some research to make sure it is compatable with the SC.
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:35 PM
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OP thanks for the pics and its just as i suspected. The intercooler fins are the most concerning for us track rats. I'm installing the vent \ bypass tube under the SC soon so will be pulling the SC. I have 25k miles and most of it with the Elite \ CS can that by the way other than WOT works great. We will soon see if that statement is completely true!
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:03 PM
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I understand your concern.

I just looked at mine at 82k miles. I didn't think to take photos.
I saw some build up on the valve stems at the mid point where the stem retracts into the head but nothing significant on the back side of the valves themselves. Actually the valve itself looked pretty darn good.

The build up on the stem the was soft and gooey.
I cleaned it off of course.

I have been thinking about it and I am not sure if it is actually a problem or what problem it could cause.

Everyone will have their opinions. Of course

Last edited by dar02081961; 03-05-2018 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dar02081961
I understand your concern.

I just looked at mine at 82k miles. I didn't think to take photos.
I saw some build up on the valve stems at the mid point where the stem retracts into the head but nothing significant on the back side of the valves themselves. Actually the valve itself looked pretty darn good.

The build up on the stem the was soft and gooey.
I cleaned it off of course.

I have been thinking about it and I am not sure if it is actually a problem or what problem it could cause.

Everyone will have their opinions. Of course

I can agree with valves stem not real concerning and the backs look good but the intercooler is getting gunked pretty good. You have to pull the charger and filp it to see.

No big harm yet new blower fixes a lot and then I'm cleaning my heads.With GM head cleaner spray should clean up nice.
But don't want anymore gunk in there or in the new blower an M&M has a nice way to do and still maintain like function of the PVC.

Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-05-2018 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 3 Z06ZR1
Seems old Co speed was preaching and we should have listened.

My Z06 Charger on the unside bottom of the internal intercoolers and the valves show pretty bad build up.
how many miles?
Old 03-06-2018, 05:45 AM
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Can each brick be unbolted and pivoted for cleaning without draining the IC circuit? That's the biggest potential issue you'll face. Once you get air in the circuit guys have had trouble getting it properly bled again.

I've watched my IAT2s on track in hot weather and they're always under 115F. Seeing oil on the IC fins and actually having a cooling issue are two very different things.
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:14 AM
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this place is so emotional. well said that one week we need them one week its snake oil... in for more r&d and I don't doubt ill be buying one soon as well
Old 03-06-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by spearfish25
Can each brick be unbolted and pivoted for cleaning without draining the IC circuit? That's the biggest potential issue you'll face. Once you get air in the circuit guys have had trouble getting it properly bled again.

I've watched my IAT2s on track in hot weather and they're always under 115F. Seeing oil on the IC fins and actually having a cooling issue are two very different things.
just fyi, IAT2 is not what the ECM uses to pull timing, it uses Manifold Air Temp, which is what I recommend you monitor instead.

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Old 03-06-2018, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
just fyi, IAT2 is not what the ECM uses to pull timing, it uses Manifold Air Temp, which is what I recommend you monitor instead.
Higgs, What's the best, easiest, way to monitor MAT do you think?
Old 03-06-2018, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
just fyi, IAT2 is not what the ECM uses to pull timing, it uses Manifold Air Temp, which is what I recommend you monitor instead.
Originally Posted by Mad Dog 24
Higgs, What's the best, easiest, way to monitor MAT do you think?
Hey guys your dragging us off topic!
Old 03-06-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad Dog 24
Higgs, What's the best, easiest, way to monitor MAT do you think?
the pid in hptuners scanner I would guess....it's basically all i use to monitor anything though.


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