Z is mostly driven on 2-lanes in rural north west Alabama…some roads have deep ruts from heavy trucks and lack of maintenance.

DSC Controller -
Results – Much softer/smoother ride but car stays very flat when pushed, overall more compliant and well worth the $ to me.

Installed a TPC Racing DSC Sport Controller and V3 software.
Played with the adjustments (mostly G Comfort Parameters) and did get the Data Logging to work.

4-Wheel Alignment -
Results – The rear tires now follow the front tires and don’t try to push the rear around when going over the road ruts or riding in the road ruts. Also the car goes much straighter now and not to one side when spinning in a straight line. After 2 years of driving the car with inferior alignment, this was well worth the hassle and $ to me.

After the DSC installation, local Chevy/Cadillac dealership perform a 4-wheel alignment to the DSC Street/Occasional Track specs.
Used information from this forum to get the service manager up to speed on the need for the rear caster tool CH47960-10 (they had never done a C7 correctly before).
(Service manager actually borrowed the digital angle reader from GM and had to buy the rear knuckle adapter…this took a couple weeks.)
The car was on the rack for 3 hours…out the door charge was $98.95.
Before and after alignment measurement readings are below. (They measured the “before” 3 times to make sure they were getting repeatable results.)

2016 Z06 7,225 miles
(Readings in Degrees)
Before Alignment Measurements
Left/Right
Front
Camber -1.10/-1.31
Caster 7.40/8.00
Toe 0.08/0.07
Rear
Camber -1.20/-1.50
Caster -1.00/0.00
Toe -0.01/0.06

After Alignment Measurements
Left/Right
Front
Camber -1.30/-1.20
Caster 7.50/7.50
Toe -0.06/-0.04
Rear
Camber -1.20/-1.20
Caster 1.00 /1.00
Toe -0.04/-0.05

Toe Note – negative Toe, DSC told me, “When the suspension compresses static toe-out goes toe-in. If you start at toe-in then it will toe-in too much when the suspension compresses.”

 

Wow! They got incredibly close on both sides frt/rear. It should really hug the road. Most post of after alignment show better but still nowhere good as yours. Congrats

 

Your front toe #'s are different than what Mike provided me...

The numbers I have are +0.5mm L/F for front toe for his 'street/concessional track' setup.

 

Here are the DSC Spec's we used.

 

I just emailed Mike; looks like they may have updated their recommendations.

This is what I went off of...

 

His toe numbers are in degrees Vs Mike's numbers in mm. You would need to know the distance across the tire (in mm) that Mike is using to determine what that means in degrees. If I remember my Trig correctly degrees equals ArcTan of .05mm/xx.x mm.

Degrees is the most accurate method of specifying toe. Using measures of distance such as inches or mm depends on how large the wheel is. A .05 measurement across a 10 ft diameter wheel is a hell of a lot smaller angle than a .05 measurement across a 2 ft diameter wheel. However, distance is a lot easier to measure in a lot of cases. When I do the alignment at home I am using two tape measures separated by 24 inches that have increments of 1/64 on one edge and 1/32 on the other edge. 0.05 mm is about 3/128 in inches but I don't know if it is across 24 inches like mine is. Since I can't read the tape measures that accurately (parallax and poor eye sight come into play)
I just settle on increments of 1/32. As you can see in the following chart degree readings that are in the 0.05 range are very small and very hard to measure across a 20 inch tire or a 24 inch separation on some toe plates.




Bill

 

Thanks Bill; good catch.

I may take mine in tomorrow to have more camber added & perhaps front toe set to 0.

Not sure I want to go negative and have my Cups eaten to shreds on the inside since they are bloody expensive.

 

I find alignment degrees/mm converters to be quite useful. Many available. Here's one:

https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm