Mirror Tap
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Mirror Tap
I am installing a Uniden R3 radar detector. The videos I've watch suggest bending the mirror taps after inserting. I guess this is to make sure they don't interfere with the the cover when it is put back on. Is this necessary? I am concerned about breaking them.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
Last edited by SouthOCBoy; 03-20-2018 at 09:51 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
I didn't bend mine, so it's not "required", but still might be a good idea.
Here's a random tip I wish I had remembered: there's no power at the mirror tap locations unless the car is RUNNING or you have put it into full ON key mode.
I spent a fair bit of time scratching my head because I thought I'd have power there in accessory mode, but you don't.
Here's a random tip I wish I had remembered: there's no power at the mirror tap locations unless the car is RUNNING or you have put it into full ON key mode.
I spent a fair bit of time scratching my head because I thought I'd have power there in accessory mode, but you don't.
Last edited by davepl; 03-20-2018 at 10:49 AM.
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BAT (03-28-2021)
#4
The early mirror taps pins were thin and broke when you bend them or when trying to insert them into the connector. When last year I ordered yet another set I noticed they were thicker and much stronger and easier to insert.
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SouthOCBoy (03-20-2018)
#5
Burning Brakes
I have done this twice, following the excellent directions on this site. In neither case did I bend the ends, and admit I have no idea how I would have done that given the highly constrained space. BlendMount now has a tap with several ends, each of a different size. I used the smallest size and they fit right in. My trouble was getting the cover back on -- the first time, I was successful; the second time I had to cut a small groove. Reason I did it twice was due to a windshield replacement -- during the process, they tugged on the tap, pulling it out.
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SouthOCBoy (03-20-2018)
#6
Melting Slicks
The taps slide in with some resistance. Actually this is a good thing so they don't shake themselves loose over time.
That said they can be a PITA to get in simply because of the contortions you are in to insert them. What I did was get a T pin from my wife's sewing kit to pre "punch" the hole in the connector. The pins are a smaller O.D. then the taps but provide a good starter hole. If you don't do something similar you may bend tap pin trying to force it in.
I've put taps in several cars, some Corvettes and some other brands with self dimming rear view mirrors. It was usually a PITA except when using the T pins to open up the hole simply because of the contortions your body is in. If you are smaller and/or more flexible then me it may be a lot easier. .
That said they can be a PITA to get in simply because of the contortions you are in to insert them. What I did was get a T pin from my wife's sewing kit to pre "punch" the hole in the connector. The pins are a smaller O.D. then the taps but provide a good starter hole. If you don't do something similar you may bend tap pin trying to force it in.
I've put taps in several cars, some Corvettes and some other brands with self dimming rear view mirrors. It was usually a PITA except when using the T pins to open up the hole simply because of the contortions your body is in. If you are smaller and/or more flexible then me it may be a lot easier. .
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SouthOCBoy (03-20-2018)
#7
Drifting
I don't have a voltmeter to check the various pins in the harness, but I watched a video where the guy installing the mirror tap said that the ground wire is black (duh!), and the power on/off wire is violet (purple).
Is that correct? I want the detector to turn on and off with the car, so I do not want to hook it up to the red wire, which is also for power - right?
Am I on the right track here?
Is that correct? I want the detector to turn on and off with the car, so I do not want to hook it up to the red wire, which is also for power - right?
Am I on the right track here?
#8
Melting Slicks
I don't have a voltmeter to check the various pins in the harness, but I watched a video where the guy installing the mirror tap said that the ground wire is black (duh!), and the power on/off wire is violet (purple).
Is that correct? I want the detector to turn on and off with the car, so I do not want to hook it up to the red wire, which is also for power - right?
Am I on the right track here?
Is that correct? I want the detector to turn on and off with the car, so I do not want to hook it up to the red wire, which is also for power - right?
Am I on the right track here?
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DGA3 (03-20-2018)
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I don't have a voltmeter to check the various pins in the harness, but I watched a video where the guy installing the mirror tap said that the ground wire is black (duh!), and the power on/off wire is violet (purple).
Is that correct? I want the detector to turn on and off with the car, so I do not want to hook it up to the red wire, which is also for power - right?
Am I on the right track here?
Is that correct? I want the detector to turn on and off with the car, so I do not want to hook it up to the red wire, which is also for power - right?
Am I on the right track here?
#10
Drifting
I haven't made the purchase yet, because I wanted to make sure that I could do the install myself, which I believe now that I can.
It's between the MAX360 and the Uniden R3.
The R3 is by far the best detector out there, but the 360 also scans behind the car, so . . . . .
I'm pretty sure it will be the R3, especially considering the cost difference.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I haven't made the purchase yet, because I wanted to make sure that I could do the install myself, which I believe now that I can.
It's between the MAX360 and the Uniden R3.
The R3 is by far the best detector out there, but the 360 also scans behind the car, so . . . . .
I'm pretty sure it will be the R3, especially considering the cost difference.
It's between the MAX360 and the Uniden R3.
The R3 is by far the best detector out there, but the 360 also scans behind the car, so . . . . .
I'm pretty sure it will be the R3, especially considering the cost difference.
#12
Drifting
I was in the same dilemma. My R3 arrives Thursday. Escort came out with the 360c which has better automatic memory/marking of false alarms, arrows surrounding the outer edges, etc. It was $700 and although it was a little smaller than the 360, it was still bigger than the R3, $300 more, and did not have as good of range. I'm hoping our current wiring system can be used for future detectors (probably Unidens). I believe the patent on the arrows that Escort uses will expire in 2020 so Uniden will start to use them. Everyone says that once you get used to the arrows you don't want anything else. Let me know what you decide and how your installation goes. I'm hoping to install mine this weekend.
Sounds like you will have yours installed way before me. From where did you purchase your R3, and are you using the Blendmount?
Since you will be done first, please let me know how your installation goes!
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
I bought it from BeachCamera.com. Another forum member was nice enough to give me their $15 discount code. BeachCamera.com has good ratings on Amazon and he had good luck with them so I went for it. Yes, I am using the Blendmount. I have all the hardware and now I am waiting for the radar detector. I may install the wiretaps before I get the RD. I'll let you know. Everything looks easy on paper. My concern is breaking something.
#14
Burning Brakes
Not sure this will work, but here is the link to the Forum's excellent 'how to' on installing the taps.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-2015-c7.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-2015-c7.html
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DGA3 (03-20-2018),
SouthOCBoy (03-20-2018)
#15
Drifting
I bought it from BeachCamera.com. Another forum member was nice enough to give me their $15 discount code. BeachCamera.com has good ratings on Amazon and he had good luck with them so I went for it. Yes, I am using the Blendmount. I have all the hardware and now I am waiting for the radar detector. I may install the wiretaps before I get the RD. I'll let you know. Everything looks easy on paper. My concern is breaking something.
Best of luck. I can't wait to hear how it goes!
#16
Team Owner
#17
Drifting
Not sure this will work, but here is the link to the Forum's excellent 'how to' on installing the taps.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-2015-c7.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-2015-c7.html
I just finished reading all 23 pages - wow!
It took a while, but was worth it.
Thanks for the link.
#18
Drifting
I was preparing to order my Blendmount and Mirror Tap, but found this bit of information from the manufacturer:
The 10" Cord Length is correct if your mirror's wire harness is Exposed on its rear face. If the harness is Concealed, then the 15" Cord Length is correct. We include a couple Zip Ties to secure any slack. These recommended cord-lengths assume your radar detector is mounted close to your mirror. Longer cords are available via the dropdown menu above.
Huh?
After reading the entire 23 page thread from a year ago, I understood that the 9" was just long enough, and the 12" has some slack. Well, the 9" must no longer be offered (I did not see it), so I chose the 10". According to their recommendation, though, the 15" is needed ("If the wire harness is concealed").
Well, the wire harness is concealed behind the little plastic cover - is that what they are talking about? It can't be. 15" seems way too long for the short distance that the cable has to travel from the harness to the radar detector (Uniden R3).
What do you guys think?
The 10" Cord Length is correct if your mirror's wire harness is Exposed on its rear face. If the harness is Concealed, then the 15" Cord Length is correct. We include a couple Zip Ties to secure any slack. These recommended cord-lengths assume your radar detector is mounted close to your mirror. Longer cords are available via the dropdown menu above.
Huh?
After reading the entire 23 page thread from a year ago, I understood that the 9" was just long enough, and the 12" has some slack. Well, the 9" must no longer be offered (I did not see it), so I chose the 10". According to their recommendation, though, the 15" is needed ("If the wire harness is concealed").
Well, the wire harness is concealed behind the little plastic cover - is that what they are talking about? It can't be. 15" seems way too long for the short distance that the cable has to travel from the harness to the radar detector (Uniden R3).
What do you guys think?
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
I was preparing to order my Blendmount and Mirror Tap, but found this bit of information from the manufacturer:
The 10" Cord Length is correct if your mirror's wire harness is Exposed on its rear face. If the harness is Concealed, then the 15" Cord Length is correct. We include a couple Zip Ties to secure any slack. These recommended cord-lengths assume your radar detector is mounted close to your mirror. Longer cords are available via the dropdown menu above.
Huh?
After reading the entire 23 page thread from a year ago, I understood that the 9" was just long enough, and the 12" has some slack. Well, the 9" must no longer be offered (I did not see it), so I chose the 10". According to their recommendation, though, the 15" is needed ("If the wire harness is concealed").
Well, the wire harness is concealed behind the little plastic cover - is that what they are talking about? It can't be. 15" seems way too long for the short distance that the cable has to travel from the harness to the radar detector (Uniden R3).
What do you guys think?
The 10" Cord Length is correct if your mirror's wire harness is Exposed on its rear face. If the harness is Concealed, then the 15" Cord Length is correct. We include a couple Zip Ties to secure any slack. These recommended cord-lengths assume your radar detector is mounted close to your mirror. Longer cords are available via the dropdown menu above.
Huh?
After reading the entire 23 page thread from a year ago, I understood that the 9" was just long enough, and the 12" has some slack. Well, the 9" must no longer be offered (I did not see it), so I chose the 10". According to their recommendation, though, the 15" is needed ("If the wire harness is concealed").
Well, the wire harness is concealed behind the little plastic cover - is that what they are talking about? It can't be. 15" seems way too long for the short distance that the cable has to travel from the harness to the radar detector (Uniden R3).
What do you guys think?
#20
Drifting
I was wondering that as well. Last night I was looking at my connector that goes into the detector; it is not very long. Mine must only be 9". But between that and the length of the taps it should fit. Also you can have the cord come out from behind the mirror/roof closer or further away (right side or left side) giving you more or less cord. Before I snap everything together I'll have to make sure the cord reaches. On another note: Throughout those 23 pages we read, some have said there is no need to remove the big plastic cover behind the mirror. Hopefully I will find that to be true.
All good points. I, too, noticed that most folks on that thread said that the large PDR cover did not need to be removed. Whew! That's one less thing that could possibly break, right?
Your point that the cord can be routed to either side of the mirror also lets me know that the 10" that is now offered should be plenty long enough.
You purchased a 9" cord? Did you get yours from the actual BlendMount company, or somewhere else? On the BlendMount website, only lengths of 10", 15" and 20" are offered for a 2017 Z06 with the matching BlendMount mount.