Cooling..anyone have this installed???
07-01-2018, 01:48 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Cooling..anyone have this installed???
I need some feed back on this unit form people who have actually been on track with this system.
http://www.prospeedautosports.com/pr...-cooler-system
http://www.prospeedautosports.com/pr...-cooler-system
07-02-2018, 12:22 PM
#2
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That has been around for a while and I haven't heard many comments about it. I think the GM Secondary Radiator handled most of the oil cooling issues that occurred with the M7 cars. I know that I haven't had any issues with coolant or oil temps with my 15 Z M7 that has the GMPP Secondary Radiator. Last week at the NCM VIR HPDE in 87 degree ambient temps the highest my coolant temp got was 223 degrees and the highest the oil temp got was 273 degrees. That was at the end of 7 hot laps including a 2:04.25 lap time so I wasn't ******* it. The biggest issue I have had is keeping the intake charge cool enough to avoid high rpm engine misfires. This wouldn't do anything to help with that.
Bill
Bill
07-02-2018, 01:32 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So what was added in 17 , another oil cooler on the M7? and should I add this GMPP Secondary Radiator as you did?
07-02-2018, 01:52 PM
#4
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The 17 M7s received the Secondary Radiator as standard so you don't need to add it if you have a 17 or later M7. The A8s use the same space for their front transmission cooler so can't make use of the Secondary Radiator. If you have a 15 or 16 you can add it for less than $900 if you do the work yourself. It is a fairly simple job to add it requiring draining the cooling system, removing the driver's side front wheel well liner, removing the front splitter under tray if your car has one and the panel above it. Cutting a hole in the bottom of the main radiator duct, installing the secondary radiator and hooking up two hoses. Pretty simple and not to time consuming.
Bill
Bill
07-02-2018, 05:18 PM
#5
I guess I do not get it. Why is this needed and why was it not already installed on the car. If the 17 and newer cars have this feature it sounds like a design/safety issue. Chevy! What’s the deal here?
07-02-2018, 06:01 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The 17 M7s received the Secondary Radiator as standard so you don't need to add it if you have a 17 or later M7. The A8s use the same space for their front transmission cooler so can't make use of the Secondary Radiator. If you have a 15 or 16 you can add it for less than $900 if you do the work yourself. It is a fairly simple job to add it requiring draining the cooling system, removing the driver's side front wheel well liner, removing the front splitter under tray if your car has one and the panel above it. Cutting a hole in the bottom of the main radiator duct, installing the secondary radiator and hooking up two hoses. Pretty simple and not to time consuming.
Bill
Bill
07-02-2018, 06:21 PM
#7
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Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 07-02-2018 at 06:27 PM.
07-03-2018, 01:31 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
my coolant hit 205 today just driving around 103* temps. not on it at all. changing out oil to 15W 50 and will keep it in there year round, maybe that will help out.
07-03-2018, 06:20 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Mike, have you actually overheated and gone into a reduced power mode? Driving around slowly with stop and go in very high temps...205 water is neither abnormal nor indicative of an impending problem. You're depending on the radiator fan to cool the car rather than airflow during higher speed driving.
07-03-2018, 10:43 AM
#10
I have a 2016, am in the desert and installed the secondary radiator.
On track around here my coolant maxes around 240-244ish and oil 285ish after 20 mins in 90-95ambient. Never a limp or the a/c shutdown so no worries there.
On the street stop stop and go I regularly see 220 coolant with 225 oil in 105 ambient and similar when in Phoenix in 118 ambient with plenty of cold ac blowing, never higher than this on the street driving so I think that is normal.
All that said, when I street burnished(strictly adhering to the manual) my third set of front pads on the original, worn, CC rotors by the 48th stop in 85degree weather the car was hot enough to shut down the ac and I boiled the 3 month old srf fluid and absolutely scorched the front calipers. Bled the brakes and went to the track the next day and all was well with the normal temps given above. That was the only time my car has gotten hot. Stupid manual.
On track around here my coolant maxes around 240-244ish and oil 285ish after 20 mins in 90-95ambient. Never a limp or the a/c shutdown so no worries there.
On the street stop stop and go I regularly see 220 coolant with 225 oil in 105 ambient and similar when in Phoenix in 118 ambient with plenty of cold ac blowing, never higher than this on the street driving so I think that is normal.
All that said, when I street burnished(strictly adhering to the manual) my third set of front pads on the original, worn, CC rotors by the 48th stop in 85degree weather the car was hot enough to shut down the ac and I boiled the 3 month old srf fluid and absolutely scorched the front calipers. Bled the brakes and went to the track the next day and all was well with the normal temps given above. That was the only time my car has gotten hot. Stupid manual.
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Mike.D (07-03-2018)
07-03-2018, 10:49 AM
#11
205 wouldn't bother me and at that temp your radiator cooling fan probably hasn't gone to full speed yet so the cooling system isn't even operating at full capacity yet.
I got used to what seemed like abnormally hot engine temperatures when I bought an Olds Toronado in 1989 and in stop and go summer driving it would get up to 220 coolant before the fans went to maximum speed.
Under most conditions the electric fan is more efficient than a fan driven by the engine AND it cools better at idle but at full bore it is less energy efficient than an engine driven fan (you are using the engine to develop electric power via the alternator and then converting this back to motion via the fan motor and neither process is close to 100% efficient) and with the strict fuel economy requirements even things like fan utilization are controlled to maximize economy. The engine design and component parts are designed for these elevated operating temperatures so it isn't a problem.
I got used to what seemed like abnormally hot engine temperatures when I bought an Olds Toronado in 1989 and in stop and go summer driving it would get up to 220 coolant before the fans went to maximum speed.
Under most conditions the electric fan is more efficient than a fan driven by the engine AND it cools better at idle but at full bore it is less energy efficient than an engine driven fan (you are using the engine to develop electric power via the alternator and then converting this back to motion via the fan motor and neither process is close to 100% efficient) and with the strict fuel economy requirements even things like fan utilization are controlled to maximize economy. The engine design and component parts are designed for these elevated operating temperatures so it isn't a problem.
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Mike.D (07-03-2018)
07-03-2018, 06:16 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Mike, have you actually overheated and gone into a reduced power mode? Driving around slowly with stop and go in very high temps...205 water is neither abnormal nor indicative of an impending problem. You're depending on the radiator fan to cool the car rather than airflow during higher speed driving.
07-03-2018, 11:51 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
07-04-2018, 03:26 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I think it's a great idea, did that exactly on my c6Z but used a Ron Davis (expensive as F**K) but that radiator with an external Setrab eoc was amazing.. Any time you expand the capacity I think you get better cooling, I think the challenge with the EOC is where to position it. Thats why I'd look at this set up above (my first post link) would actually be a great idea, they use a Setrab cooler, and relocate it in the fender with air cooling.
07-04-2018, 09:22 PM
#17
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People have been trying to use aftermarket radiators in place of the stock radiator but haven't had that much luck. The extra thickness of the aftermarket radiator increases cooling capacity but the extra thickness also tends to reduce air flow which means the cooling capacity change ends up close to zero. GM placed the secondary radiator at the outlet of the engine oil cooler to provide added cooling before the coolant went to the main radiator. That got a 14 degree drop in temps. I don't know how it works. When you look at where it is installed and what is below the radiator you wonder how does air flow through this thing. However, it works so there must be somewhere for the air to flow even when you have Stage 3 Aero with an under tray.
Bill
Bill
04-14-2019, 06:08 PM
#18
Racer
Anyone know if 50/50 premixed coolant is ok so long as it’s dexcool approved? I wouldn’t think the difference between 60/40 and 50/50 makes a big difference but thought I’d ask. Used most of old coolant but also had a leak and lost some so added some of the 50/50. Also anyone have issues burping the air out of the cooling system after refilling or have best procedure?
Last edited by Markc2008; 04-14-2019 at 06:19 PM.