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Were installing a full set of ARP studs and titanium nuts in our 2015 Z06. For me the track driver I get a bit nervous after changing wheels from street to track many-many times over the years. After stretching those stock threads the chance of cracking gets higher after every torque. Last year I saw a BMW that broke its front wheel studs during a 80 mph sweeping turn and the aftermath was not nice.
First the rotor has to come off. It was a good time to blow it out clean and weigh it. We still have some life in it as the weight was 5919 grams and the stamped minimum was 5888. The studs will not simply push in the hub after driving out the old ones. We didn't have to remove the hub completely as this would mean disconnecting the lower ball joint. We were able to slide the new longer studs in by simply removing the two upper hub bolts, remove the lower ball joint nut and loosen as much as possible the lower hub bolt. Sliding the hub away from the upright is just enough room, ya! Make sure you press in the new studs and don't just use an old lug to draw them in as your defeating the purposes of the new studs. Hopefully the rears are a similar deal.
2018 was a safety first year as our car is fast enough on the track for now
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I have that as well, but it still uses the threads to pull the stud in, which isn’t ideal.
No its not ideal but either is wrecking a ball joint to pull the hub off completely. We use a similar tool to like listed here. The torque used to pull it in is not much different than what the wheel torque is so it should have no effect on thread stretch. This system has been used for years. Were doing the rear this morning i may have more info after.
Last edited by Mad Dog 24; 07-13-2018 at 06:57 AM.
I have a hard time seeing how that tool is any better than just using some heavy washers behind a lug nut but for $20 why not. Some washers and an old nut is what I used when I replaced the studs on my 2015. I didn't even loosen the hub as there is a slot where you can get the studs in and out. I'm curious to see how you do the rear.
I have a hard time seeing how that tool is any better than just using some heavy washers behind a lug nut but for $20 why not. Some washers and an old nut is what I used when I replaced the studs on my 2015. I didn't even loosen the hub as there is a slot where you can get the studs in and out. I'm curious to see how you do the rear.
So the rear is a real PIA! It all comes apart there is no cheating or tricks on this end of the car as you can see in the picture. I did notice while weighing the rear rotors they are considerably heavier than the fronts with the park brake drum attached. If I was building a race car that would be gone. Sean if you could slide the front new studs in without loosing the hub I bet your studs were just a bit shorter in length than what we put in our car. Enjoy that ZR1 !
At least on C5 and C6 I hear that folks would drill a hole in the backing plate to press them out and back in.
As far as the fronts go, are those stock length or the longer ones? At the time ARP didn't make a stock length stud so I cut the longer ones down to stock length.
At least on C5 and C6 I hear that folks would drill a hole in the backing plate to press them out and back in.
As far as the fronts go, are those stock length or the longer ones? At the time ARP didn't make a stock length stud so I cut the longer ones down to stock length.
I’ve seen that before, too. Has anyone tried this on the C7 yet?
07-12-2018, 01:38 PM
ARP wheel stud installation help
