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had it running for a few minutes last night at the local meet everything seemed fine.
matched with a Grantelli Speed Expansion Tank
Thanks for posting this.
For 40 bucks it’s a no brainer to buy it and try it.
I wonder if when using this with the stock intercooler tank if you can take the fill cap off and have the pump cycling while slowly dripping coolant into the intercooler fill port?
It seems this would help bleed the stock system and allow you to fill the stock intercooler tank to its max capacity.
Last edited by Mr. Gizmo; Jul 15, 2018 at 03:55 PM.
i dont believe this tool is even necessary to be honest with you. Its only for purging the system, and if you check out the purge threads, we have found that you must have vacuum and your nose of your car tilted up. If you have those 2 things, you are done.
i dont believe this tool is even necessary to be honest with you. Its only for purging the system, and if you check out the purge threads, we have found that you must have vacuum and your nose of your car tilted up. If you have those 2 things, you are done.
how does a back yard mechanic create a vacuum in the system?
further, it does no harm to start the car to cause the pump to activate once the clear hose is hooked onto the port. I dont see a point in buying a tool to do it... seems like a hassle to me. But i purged my entire system without starting the car once in my final 2 videos. Tilting the car is the key
i dont believe this tool is even necessary to be honest with you. Its only for purging the system, and if you check out the purge threads, we have found that you must have vacuum and your nose of your car tilted up. If you have those 2 things, you are done.
Mike, it does help to move air out of the system even when using a vacuum. Yes, from the diagram that has been posted it looks like the coolant flow into the reservoir is opposite of what you need to burp air out of the reservoir but it does help getting air out of the rest of the system. Turning the pump on and off helps. The only thing you need to be sure to do is to put a battery charger on the electrical system so you don't accidentally run down the battery while bleeding the system.
Found your video , thanks. -Am i understanding this correctly :
1.the car motor is off
2. The front of the car is raised
3. You have a hose that fits snugly over the filler port
4. You suck with your vacuum the antifreeze and air pockets from the tank/brick and lines up into the tube then let it flow back down as you are adding antifreeze up at the top of the hose.
5. This takes a couple of hours of sucking and filling as it gradually fills and forces air pockets out.
Found your video , thanks. -Am i understanding this correctly :
1.the car motor is off
2. The front of the car is raised
3. You have a hose that fits snugly over the filler port
4. You suck with your vacuum the antifreeze and air pockets from the tank/brick and lines up into the tube then let it flow back down as you are adding antifreeze up at the top of the hose.
5. This takes a couple of hours of sucking and filling as it gradually fills and forces air pockets out.
Yeah, what you will want to do is add a good 8 inches of water/coolant to the hose as soon as you put it on the car. I would put it on the car before you tilt it. As you tilt the car up, don't be surprised if it starts drinking that fluid as bubbles come out. The goal is to not let air back into the system, as that is the opposite of what we are trying to do. That being said, you want there to always be excess fluid in the tube.
The tricky part is after you have the car titled all the way... and you start pulling vacuum. Now, the fluid will get into your vacuum tube and ruin your pump. For that reason, you will either need another res like we have with the white pipe, or... you will want to start with a longer 1" ID tube. 4 ft would be ideal probably. You might even be able to lean it against/over the top of the high side of the open hood. This gives you the room to pull vac, and not ruin your pump as more fluid comes out. As you get more and more air out... the amount the fluid will pull (and push) will diminish. Toward the end, our 2 ft hose was enough. Air expands, fluid doesnt really, so once most of the air is out of the system, it gets harder to cause the fluid to rise up the hose.
For 40 bucks it’s a no brainer to buy it and try it.
I wonder if when using this with the stock intercooler tank if you can take the fill cap off and have the pump cycling while slowly dripping coolant into the intercooler fill port?
It seems this would help bleed the stock system and allow you to fill the stock intercooler tank to its max capacity.
Agree, ordered one today, looking forward to using it next time I burp the Z.
wow. didn't expect these posts lol. but good content guys lol. will look into what my fender tank looks like this week. just don't want to hurt the IC pump. don't think the pump has a thermo shut down ? or failsafe besides my battery dying ?
I personally just cut a spare fuse open to get one of the two fuse "blades". Remove Fuse #38 and push the single fuse blade into the left side of the Fuse #38 reciever. Run a wire from the blade to a 12v source. A readily available 12v source is the heavy gauge red wire going into the fuse box ont he firewall side. I personally would never spend $40 on something that's free. I'm sure most can cut open a fuse and have a piece of wire laying around...
I personally just cut a spare fuse open to get one of the two fuse "blades". Remove Fuse #38 and push the single fuse blade into the left side of the Fuse #38 reciever. Run a wire from the blade to a 12v source. A readily available 12v source is the heavy gauge red wire going into the fuse box ont he firewall side. I personally would never spend $40 on something that's free. I'm sure most can cut open a fuse and have a piece of wire laying around...
You spent money on the fuse? I just jam the bare end of the wire down in the fusebox.
I'm not sure what your looking for. It simply allows you to turn on the pump with out the engine running. This can be useful for bleeding or for cooling in staging lanes.
Like a few of us mentioned, there are some significantly cheaper ways to do the same thing
so does anyone else really have some in use experience with this piece ?
Works very nicely to run the pump when bleeding the system.
Probably could have made it myself for $3-5, excluding the time to research and find the parts. To me the cost was a no-brainer, based upon my value of my time.
You can also just use a jumper wire, and have no fused circuit protection.