hawaiiz06

Hello folks. Quick question before I pull trigger on a full oem carbon ceramic brake kit for my 2019 z06. My z06 came with iron rotors. The full carbon ceramic brake kit comes with new brake lines. My question is do I need to do a full brake fluid flush installing new brake lines? Or can I just top off the little brake fluid loss when swapping the lines? Also, since I'm putting in new brake lines, does ABS system need to bleeding as well? I read somewhere abs bleeding requires special factory tools. I'm planning on doing this in my garage with a help of a friend. Lastly, which motive bleeder cap will fit our current z06 master brake cylinder? Thank you guys!

3 Z06ZR1

I would take more input before you do some switch the other way to iron. The iron brakes are fantastic stoppers!

NineVettes

Going to do an upgrade, look at the AP brakes

X25

The front brake lines are different, but the rears are same. As long as you don't let the fluid reservoir run dry and get air into the lines, you don't need to bleed anything but the calipers themselves. It's a very simple process.

hawaiiz06

So should I just leave my stock rear brakes lines unchanged? If rear lines are same between iron and carbon. My car only has 300 miles. So for front I should try to quickly unscrew old lines and install new lines and top off fluid to brake master if needed and lastly bleed with motive bleeder? Sorry for nooby questions.
I wanting carbon rotors because stock iron rotors and pads dust horribly and after wsshing car, I hate that rotors will turn rusty orange. I mainly want carbon brakes for looks and no brake dust. I will not be tracking my car. Purely weekend warrior.

X25

Yes, you can keep the rear brake lines. Keep in mind, you'll need pads, calipers, rotors, and front lines. You should replace both fronts and rears for a balanced system.

hawaiiz06

Thanks a buch X25! Yes, im buying the entire kit with calipers, rotors, pads, and lines

X25

You're welcome! Good luck with your project.

michaeleverson

I am doing the same swap. Anyone know the difference between the front brake lines? Where can I buy the CCB specific front lines?
Thanks Mike

X25

Take a look at here:
https://www.iamgmparts.com/auto-part...nt-brakes-scat

You need the line for J57 (#10)
https://www.iamgmparts.com/oem-parts...bC12OC1nYXM%3D

rob62

The stock engine is fantastic also.

badhabit_wb

You may be able to find some fairly new ccb's for sale on the forum. They will last forever on the street. You might could work out a swap with someone as well. Carbotech makes pads with very little dust and that's a lot cheaper than the full swap. If you do run the master cylinder dry you will have to do an abs bleed. For that you will need a too either the factory machine or an aftermarket that uses the GM gds 2 software. Good luck with your project.

Bill Dearborn

Whether or not you need to bleed the ABS unit depends on how long it will take you to remove the original brake line and install the new one. Luckily, the new line will have the captured fitting like the old one which will make putting things back together easier than when switching to aftermarket lines. However, you will still find the lack of room around the hose to hard line connection makes getting the lines separated and then reconnected difficult.

One of the things I found made things easier when installing my AP Brake Kit was to unbolt the bracket the hose/hardline are fastened to so I had more room to get a wrench in place. Even then I had to take one of my brake line wrenches and bend it at about 90 degrees to be able to use it.

Bill

X25

There's no need to rush or complicate things as you do a brake job. Just top it off all the way to the top (beyond full) and close the reservoir lid. When the lid is shut, it would drastically slow down the leak, and you'd have hours, if not a day to connect hoses : )

Bill Dearborn

My problem was I couldn't get the old line off fast enough and the new line on fast enough. Once the old hose fitting was loose I couldn't turn it fast enough to prevent a fair amount of brake fluid from dripping out of the hard line. Once I got the fitting off the hard line the next issue was tightening the fitting for the new hose onto the hard line. It took a long time to get the threads started and the fitting tightened. During that time I actually drained a full reservoir (mostly down my arms) and got air in the ABS unit. When I did the other three brakes I found unbolting the bracket allowed me to get my hands and wrenches into the space so I could quickly get the old hose off and the new hose on.

As for getting the air out of the ABS unit I was lucky in being able to drive the car and brake hard enough to activate the ABS. After a couple of sessions of doing that and subsequently bleeding the calipers again I got the air out of the ABS unit. I used about 6 containers of brake fluid to get it operational again.

Bill

X25

Just keep the lid fully closed, fluid to the top, and you would have plenty of time. I must have done this about 10 times, now; never had an issue. When the lid is left open, it drains an order of magnitude faster : )

badhabit_wb

The lid was on tight and the reservoir was full and I had the same problem as Bill. I didn't try activating the abs like bill since I had the tool to cycle it. X25 kudos to you for changing your hoses 10 times and never having a problem.

X25

Sorry, wasn't trying to brag at all. If this is really a concern, one can also source bungs from the local auto parts store and seal/plug the lines during the work.

badhabit_wb

One thing I just remembered is that the threads were crossed on my drivers side hard line when it was screwed into the soft line at the factory. I ended up having to get a die to chase the threads, it's an m10 x 1, and that made it screw in fine. That was my major pita on the whole job.

Faster5