HELP - Engine Temperature Sensor/160 Thermostat
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
HELP - Engine Temperature Sensor/160 Thermostat
How many of you all have experienced a bad Engine Temp sensor? My engine temperature gauge reads 0, my fans are staying on long after I park and my AC isn’t blowing cold air. I disconnect the battery and it goes back to normal. I just purchased a replacement today with the hope that this is the issue. I do have a 160 degree thermostat and I read that other were having the issue related to the thermostat, but nobody confirmed. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 187
Likes: 33
From: GA/SC/NC
I experienced that initially when the tuner put in the 160 but didn't change the tune to reflect it. Once, I made the change in the tune I haven't had that issue since. However, most 160 thermostat's are crap including the high $$$. I've gone through 3 in less than 8 months and now using a 180 degree. I always keep a spare on hand since it's so easy to replace.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 680
Likes: 79
From: Tampa FL
I experienced that initially when the tuner put in the 160 but didn't change the tune to reflect it. Once, I made the change in the tune I haven't had that issue since. However, most 160 thermostat's are crap including the high $$$. I've gone through 3 in less than 8 months and now using a 180 degree. I always keep a spare on hand since it's so easy to replace.
Thanks,
Mark
Safety Car
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,808
Likes: 344
From: Albuquerque NM
This is pretty common every year when the temp drops. The ECM expects the ECT to come up in temp within a certain time (I don't know the time). When this doesn't happen it sets a coolant undertemp code (P0106 I believe), shows zero for temp, and runs the fans. It only happened to me when I was running a 160 stat and jumped immediately onto the freeway (where it takes longer for the ECT to come up). So, either do away with the 160 or let the car warm up a little before hitting the freeways.
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 4
My second 160 was the mishimoto and it lasted less than 30 days. it's very poor quality for the price.
Here's the 180 that I'm currently running now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the 180 that I'm currently running now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 182
From: Manassas VA
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 5,684
Likes: 1,449
What I have done on my previous car and did again on my current car is buy a summit 170 tstat and press the bulb out and swap the bulb into the OEM tstat disc. This way you have the good OEM gasket with whatever temperature bulb you want.
Cruising temps vary from 172-178 dependent on ambient temps. Note that my car has an LG kit. A stock Z might run at 195-200 still.
I've ran almost 10k miles combined with both cars with no problems. Don't expect any problems either.
Here's a link on how to do it. You don't need a vise. Just sockets and a hammer or mallet.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...he-rescue.html
Cruising temps vary from 172-178 dependent on ambient temps. Note that my car has an LG kit. A stock Z might run at 195-200 still.
I've ran almost 10k miles combined with both cars with no problems. Don't expect any problems either.
Here's a link on how to do it. You don't need a vise. Just sockets and a hammer or mallet.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...he-rescue.html
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; Aug 12, 2019 at 09:04 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 182
From: Manassas VA
What I have done on my previous car and did again on my current car is buy a summit 170 tstat and press the bulb out and swap the bulb into the OEM tstat disc. This way you have the good OEM gasket with whatever temperature bulb you want.
Cruising temps vary from 172-178 dependent on ambient temps. Note that my car has an LG kit. A stock Z might run at 195-200 still.
I've ran almost 10k miles combined with both cars with no problems. Don't expect any problems either.
Here's a link on how to do it. You don't need a vise. Just sockets and a hammer or mallet.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...he-rescue.html
Cruising temps vary from 172-178 dependent on ambient temps. Note that my car has an LG kit. A stock Z might run at 195-200 still.
I've ran almost 10k miles combined with both cars with no problems. Don't expect any problems either.
Here's a link on how to do it. You don't need a vise. Just sockets and a hammer or mallet.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...he-rescue.html
I did this and it worked for about 6k miles but eventually the expansion and contractions from coolant temperature swings loosened the bulb. The result was it apparently got slightly sideways and would not open properly with the result the coolant temperature went rather high.
The Katech piece is a better option plus you will still have a working stock thermostat if you want to switch back for winter operation in colder climates.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 5,684
Likes: 1,449
The potential problem with doing that is the o.d. of the summit bulb is less then the stock piece. That means you have to try and swage the OE disc down to hold the new bulb.
I did this and it worked for about 6k miles but eventually the expansion and contractions from coolant temperature swings loosened the bulb. The result was it apparently got slightly sideways and would not open properly with the result the coolant temperature went rather high.
The Katech piece is a better option plus you will still have a working stock thermostat if you want to switch back for winter operation in colder climates.
I did this and it worked for about 6k miles but eventually the expansion and contractions from coolant temperature swings loosened the bulb. The result was it apparently got slightly sideways and would not open properly with the result the coolant temperature went rather high.
The Katech piece is a better option plus you will still have a working stock thermostat if you want to switch back for winter operation in colder climates.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,131
Likes: 147
From: Sugar Land TX
I have instructions and pics of how to change out the 160 Mishimoto to the 180 Summit/Jet thermostat. Mine has been working fine now for over a year. If anybody want it PM me your email address.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 43
From: Petersham, MA
The Katech is the only one you want to run. The quality is top shelf and I’ve never heard of a failure. My brother tried another off brand from a board vendor in his ‘16 Z06 and it didn’t even last 30 days before completely melting down and failing outright. He now runs a Katech 160 and I run one in my Whipple’d Camaro SS as well. Just not the place to cut corners IMO.
Last edited by Joshinator99; Aug 13, 2019 at 09:11 PM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 64
From: Prescott AZ Gilbert AZ
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,398
Likes: 855
The potential problem with doing that is the o.d. of the summit bulb is less then the stock piece. That means you have to try and swage the OE disc down to hold the new bulb.
I did this and it worked for about 6k miles but eventually the expansion and contractions from coolant temperature swings loosened the bulb. The result was it apparently got slightly sideways and would not open properly with the result the coolant temperature went rather high.
The Katech piece is a better option plus you will still have a working stock thermostat if you want to switch back for winter operation in colder climates.
I did this and it worked for about 6k miles but eventually the expansion and contractions from coolant temperature swings loosened the bulb. The result was it apparently got slightly sideways and would not open properly with the result the coolant temperature went rather high.
The Katech piece is a better option plus you will still have a working stock thermostat if you want to switch back for winter operation in colder climates.
I did the bulb swap following 8850's instructions about 8 months ago. (approximately 12-14,000 miles)
All was well, temps ran a bit lower and I was perfectly happy and swore by this mod to all the folks I know.
However last week my temps started running a bit higher than I am use to seeing.
Car wasn't running hot but was climbing 20 degrees in 95* ambient temps after a hard run through 1st 2nd, and 3rd gears.
The temperature would come back down after the run but I confirmed with previous data logs something was amiss.
Checked for debris in the radiator fins and found nothing........checked the T-stat and found the exact thing you mention here had happened to my modified thermostat and bulb.
I was pretty deliberate and careful when I did the bulb mod, and perhaps I didn't secure it as well as I thought I did....who knows.
But my experience was exactly the same as yours.......It ran good for months and then it gradually failed.
YMMV.
Last edited by dar02081961; Aug 14, 2019 at 07:36 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 5,684
Likes: 1,449
Funny how things work out.
I did the bulb swap following 8850's instructions about 8 months ago. (approximately 12-14,000 miles)
All was well, temps ran a bit lower and I was perfectly happy and swore by this mod to all the folks I know.
However last week my temps started running a bit higher than I am use to seeing.
Car wasn't running hot but was climbing 20 degrees in 95* ambient temps after a hard run through 1st 2nd, and 3rd gears.
The temperature would come back down after the run but I confirmed with previous data logs something was amiss.
Checked for debris in the radiator fins and found nothing........checked the T-stat and found the exact thing you mention here had happened to my modified thermostat and bulb.
I was pretty deliberate and careful when I did the bulb mod, and perhaps I didn't secure it as well as I thought I did....who knows.
But my experience was exactly the same as yours.......It ran good for months and then it gradually failed.
YMMV.
I did the bulb swap following 8850's instructions about 8 months ago. (approximately 12-14,000 miles)
All was well, temps ran a bit lower and I was perfectly happy and swore by this mod to all the folks I know.
However last week my temps started running a bit higher than I am use to seeing.
Car wasn't running hot but was climbing 20 degrees in 95* ambient temps after a hard run through 1st 2nd, and 3rd gears.
The temperature would come back down after the run but I confirmed with previous data logs something was amiss.
Checked for debris in the radiator fins and found nothing........checked the T-stat and found the exact thing you mention here had happened to my modified thermostat and bulb.
I was pretty deliberate and careful when I did the bulb mod, and perhaps I didn't secure it as well as I thought I did....who knows.
But my experience was exactly the same as yours.......It ran good for months and then it gradually failed.
YMMV.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 770
Likes: 163
From: Southeastern NM
If you install a 160 t-stat and your car doesn't get to a certain temp after a certain amount of time, the car will throw code p0128. Your gauge will read "0" and your fans will run full speed, even after you turn the engine off. You either need to get a 180 t-stat, or get your car tuned. It happened to me with my '14 Z51 and once with my C7 Z06. I got it tuned out and no longer have that problem.
You have to go into "engine diagnostics" and check the box that says "no error return".
You have to go into "engine diagnostics" and check the box that says "no error return".