Mikec7z

i would put a stock x pipe back in as those have high flow cats stock (i assume you changed out your x pipe, if not, even better)

and i would get the norcal downpipes, and then have your tuner disable COT.

Not only will cot give you back a lot of power, so will the downpipes... right now that primary cat in the downpipe IS YOUR MAIN RESTRICTION in the system, so by eliminating that it will allow the rest of the components to flow a lot more air instantly.

Your blower AIT will come down as well, as less pressure will have to be built to move the air through the engine.

The reason for the stock x pipe and cats at that location is:
1 car will be super loud if you dont have cats at x pipe
2 car will smell like fuel all the time as you are driving around

x pipe cat is enough to solve those 2 problems, but dont need COT protection since they are high flow cats and away from the engine... and IF they do clog, they are easy to swap out for other stock x pipes, which people literally throw in the trash can. You can get them for free practically.

Your car will run much cooler in all fluids and AIT's once you do this.

If you car still has trouble after that, we can still address it, but rest assured, no main CAT and COT deactivated... those 2 will yeild you well over 100-150hp vs what your car has when COT is active currently.

COT has different stages as well, so people who think COT does not cause that much harm in power, dont realize, on a road course, you hit the further stages and it robs more and more power.

Main downpipe cat must be removed before COT is disabled.

Headers are counter productive, they radiate too much heat. Talk to JStewart for a reference on what im saying is true.

SGT_G

Thanks for all the responses from everyone. I ended up taking my car to a well known lsx tuner to look at it cause the other guy was too busy. Turned out the first guy hadn't enabled any flex fuel parameters causing the car to act wonky while running it. Also, he found that my intercooler pump wasn't working and my IATs when dynoing were 200 degrees which had the car pull 11 degrees of timing. Also the car went from producing a few pounds of boost to none in the subsequent runs.

Mikec7z

Thats why my first question was to ask you if you had an e85 sensor My gut said that was the problem.

your car has been running way outside proper afr.... i would not be surprised if you were not on the knock sensor at all times, you might want to stick a scope down in and look at your piston faces and see how they look.

After that, i still suggest doing the steps in my last post before this one Youll make a lot more power and run cooler.

SGT_G

The second guy said that fueling was good and AFR was good as well but without the intercooler pump doing anything, my car retarded timing so bad costing me all of my power and making almost zero boost. I want to see where it sits after I replace the pump before I go through your suggestion

Mikec7z

intercooler pump shuts down for 3 min at a time, if there is air in the tank. I dont think your pump went bad, i think you have air in your intercooler res tank. Your system has to be purged. Also, even if pump is working, on dyno, car gets super hot after 1 pull. Car cant be pulled back to back. Pulls have to be done cold.

Your pistons could have serious damage, just being real. Check them before you run the car hard. Keep in mind, the damage might be to the side of the pistons too, the rings.

Mikec7z

blower res tank is under passenger headlight area in the engine bay... down low. It should have essentially no air in it.

Take a picture of it from above, and I can tell if there is too much air in the system, and that is why your pump is shutting off 3 min at a time. Pump has an "anticavitation shutdown" to clear the air away from impeller.

SGT_G

He did purge it first and tried to jump the pump using the fuse box. It kicked for a second and then went dead again. Why would there be damage to my pistons? My car only went lean briefly with the E85 when the alcohol tables weren't active.

Mikec7z

oh i thought you were driving around racing people and found your car to be slower.

Thats what the pump does... it has a clock.

I would give him a 50 50 chance of purging your car correctly, car has to be on a massive tilt with its nose in the air, there is no other way about it. Vacuum pump is only half the chore... car has to be titled. Take a picture of your tank and I can tell you very quickly how well he did.

Mikec7z

also, jumpering the pump will not show you that it is not working...

the brain that shuts off the pump is INSIDE the pump housing.

The pump ALWAYS has power.

The fact that he gave it power is nothing profound or useful in diagnosing if the pump is good or bad.

The pump shuts off by ITS choice, even when it has full power.

The car does not shut the power off to the pump, the car always gives the pump power.

Your pump is most likely fine, and you have air in your system.

The pump has to have pure water/coolant and NO AIR at its impeller blade for it to function.

if you guys take it off the car and attach power to it at a work bench, it will not pump for more than a second or 2.

it knows when its pumping air or water. It shuts down when it pumps air. Its programmed to do this.

SGT_G

Can I just reach down and put my hand on it now that the air has been purged to see if its pumping then?

Mikec7z

yes and no, if there is air in the system, it will not be pumping. Thats why i need the photo of your res tank to know if thats the problem.

Mikec7z

trust me, a person can work to purge the car for 4 hours straight, and if the car is NOT tilted, the purging efforts are fruitless.

Mikec7z

shot you 2 pm's. phone number was wrong on first pm.

hit me up, ive got to go run some errands and cant keep checking this thread, but want to help you.

LagunaSecaZ06

I created this thread and video. Basically buy a 1inch inside diameter clear vinyl tube. Add liquid until the pump starts working. IMHO, I don't recommend add on reservoir tanks. These add on tanks make it impossible to bleed the the system(Except for the G-Speed or LG systems). I have removed tank since this video. If your system is really low, then you may have to vacuum the system and refill. You could also jack up the front of the car really high(there are numerous threads on this) and vacuum or use the tube method to purge the air bubbles. Getting this intercooler system purged is critical to performance. As MikeC7Z states, and numerous others have said, getting the air bubbles as small(or gone) from the intercooler reservoir system is priority #1. When I now use the tube with my stock system, the fluid is clear and bubbles. The system should NOT "gurgle" when car is turned off. You also do not need the jumper switch, just start the car let then engine run.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ler-video.html

Mikec7z

that was the thread that taught me, you've helped a lot of us Laguna.

The OP's pump is no longer shutting off, he got the air out of his system, so life is good there. Now we are just discussing his primary cat as being his last problem.