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Hey guys, i have a 2016 z06 with the mgw shifter and when driven “full tilt” i cant quickly shift to 3rd without mis shift id say 3 out of 5 shifts. Im not saying its not me lol, but could it be because i misaligned the mgw shifter? A friend of mine had a c5 z06 and said he changed the tranny fluid and it helped alot him with the 2-3 shift. Just want to know if any forum members had this issue also. Car has 6k miles on it.
thanks
Highly unlikely it's the MGW shifter, I've installed 2 in my C7s. It does have to be aligned frt. to rear which is why they include an alignment tool. Missing the 2-3 shift is with HOW YOU perform it. You can't just shove it up & right to hit 3rd. You know the shift linkage has a "self centering" that is spring loaded to put the shifter in neutral directly below 3rd then straight up to 3rd. I suspect in trying to rush into 3rd, you are PUSHING it to the far right instead of letting the shifter find 3rd. As many have posted (hard core track folks) try palming it instead of grabbing it like like your .... Sorry, I'm assuming something here. Changing fluid wouldn't help this particular problem, it is normally done to help with the "notchy" or rough nibbling of gears that sometimes happens when the fluid is not warmed up yet. Don't know your background with manuals but practice helps unless you're damaging the gears by not hitting them properly or FULLY depressing the clutch trying to hurry the shift. Good luck.
Highly unlikely it's the MGW shifter, I've installed 2 in my C7s. It does have to be aligned frt. to rear which is why they include an alignment tool. Missing the 2-3 shift is with HOW YOU perform it. You can't just shove it up & right to hit 3rd. You know the shift linkage has a "self centering" that is spring loaded to put the shifter in neutral directly below 3rd then straight up to 3rd. I suspect in trying to rush into 3rd, you are PUSHING it to the far right instead of letting the shifter find 3rd. As many have posted (hard core track folks) try palming it instead of grabbing it like like your .... Sorry, I'm assuming something here. Changing fluid wouldn't help this particular problem, it is normally done to help with the "notchy" or rough nibbling of gears that sometimes happens when the fluid is not warmed up yet. Don't know your background with manuals but practice helps unless you're damaging the gears by not hitting them properly or FULLY depressing the clutch trying to hurry the shift. Good luck.
Thanks, i have been driving manuals for about 20 years, learned to drive on one. I figured it was me just wanted to see if it was something i did in the install, im def ramming it in there like my older 911 lol
I have no issues shifted 2-3 in my C7z, it also has an MGW shifter. There's some good techniques like open palm which makes it into 3rd shifting at 6500 for me.
Hey guys, i have a 2016 z06 with the mgw shifter and when driven “full tilt” i cant quickly shift to 3rd without mis shift id say 3 out of 5 shifts. Im not saying its not me lol, but could it be because i misaligned the mgw shifter? A friend of mine had a c5 z06 and said he changed the tranny fluid and it helped alot him with the 2-3 shift. Just want to know if any forum members had this issue also. Car has 6k miles on it.
thanks
Reggue
I know exactly what you're referring to. I drove a C6 Z06 (stock shifter) for 7 yrs before I switched to my C7. Starting the first day, I would miss 2 out 5 of my 2-3 shifts. Eventually got an MGW installed thru a buddy and he aligned it as others have mentioned above. No more 2-3 shift issues. I'd say get the linkage on the MGW re-aligned.
Sorry to bring back a 7 week old thread. I have the stock shifter. Shifting 1 --> 2, no problem. Open palm technique 3-->4 no problem, it just naturally finds 3rd. 3rd to 4th is also an easy shift. 4th to 5th, once in a while I hit 7th, but more often it wants to go back into 3rd rather than 5th. I have tried open palm 4-->5 and it always goes to 3rd. I have to forcefully guide it into 5th, and once in a while I miss and it goes into 7th. Downshifting out of 7th, I really have to fight it to hit 6th, othewise it goes into 4th. I know the springs are set to bring the shifter to neutral between 3 and 4. I have no issues shifting 1 through 4 and downshifting through those gears. What are your techniques for going 4th to 5th and 7th to 6th? What can I do better for more consistent shifts into the overdrive gears.
Everyone says get an MGW and it will fix all your shifting problems. I compare that advice to the golfer with the bad technique who thinks that a new set of Pings will fix his problem. Shouldn't technique be addressed first before getting new equipment, or in this case is a short shifter really the answer? I always heard a long shifter was easier to find the gears.
Downshifting out of 7th, I really have to fight it to hit 6th, otherwise it goes into 4th. I know the springs are set to bring the shifter to neutral between 3 and 4. I have no issues shifting 1 through 4 and downshifting through those gears. What are your techniques for going 4th to 5th and 7th to 6th?
Thanks.
Down or upshifting around 6th and 7th is always tricky for me and I don't know if there IS a technique out there. I assumed this was how the car was always setup. Maybe the better informed folks can chime in here and prove me wrong.
Originally Posted by Null Pointer
Everyone says get an MGW and it will fix all your shifting problems. I compare that advice to the golfer with the bad technique who thinks that a new set of Pings will fix his problem. Shouldn't technique be addressed first before getting new equipment, or in this case is a short shifter really the answer?
My earlier comment was in response to the person (who went from a C6 to a C7) and said 2-3 shifts were consistently falling flat when he switched to a C7. This sounded like a linkage alignment issue to me, which was the same issue I experienced on my C7. Going to an MGW wasn't the sole fix, rather it was getting a skilled person to realign the linkage prior to installing the MGW that fixed it. Hope this helps.
Last edited by hubris140; Aug 8, 2019 at 03:53 PM.
Sorry to bring back a 7 week old thread. I have the stock shifter. Shifting 1 --> 2, no problem. Open palm technique 3-->4 no problem, it just naturally finds 3rd. 3rd to 4th is also an easy shift. 4th to 5th, once in a while I hit 7th, but more often it wants to go back into 3rd rather than 5th. I have tried open palm 4-->5 and it always goes to 3rd. I have to forcefully guide it into 5th, and once in a while I miss and it goes into 7th. Downshifting out of 7th, I really have to fight it to hit 6th, othewise it goes into 4th. I know the springs are set to bring the shifter to neutral between 3 and 4. I have no issues shifting 1 through 4 and downshifting through those gears. What are your techniques for going 4th to 5th and 7th to 6th? What can I do better for more consistent shifts into the overdrive gears.
Everyone says get an MGW and it will fix all your shifting problems. I compare that advice to the golfer with the bad technique who thinks that a new set of Pings will fix his problem. Shouldn't technique be addressed first before getting new equipment, or in this case is a short shifter really the answer? I always heard a long shifter was easier to find the gears.
Thanks.
Get the MGW and it’ll solve the overdrive gear issue. The stock shifter is nice and soft but not precise. I had a similar issue hitting 7th instead of 5th. The shifter helped tremendously. You’ll also love the 2-3 shift. So easy with a palm👍🏻
The MGW shifter is the best thing you can do for a manual Corvette. It is amazing. I had one in my C5, went with a hurst in the c6 and back to MGW. The MGW easily wins especially with the race ****
Last edited by JDMvette7; Aug 8, 2019 at 04:02 PM.
I have a stock shifter and don't miss the 2-3 shift. You don't need an MGW shifter as it doesn't do anything to change the internal parts of the transmission which determine how the shift will progress. Both the stock, MGW and all other aftermarket shifters are nothing but a stick through a hole. All that can be changed is the height of the hole (fulcrum point), the diameter of the hole in relationship to the stick and how long the stick is. The working end of the stick moves a rod under the center console forward and backwards and rotates it from side to side and that motion is translated the rear of the transmission where it is coupled to the transmission shift mechanism. Some aftermarket shifters have springs mounted in them that increase the centering pressure on the shift mechanism and that will help people who can't shift move the gears from 2 to 3. However, the springs make the 4-5 shift harder and the 3-2 shift harder.
I have a stock shifter and don't miss the 2-3 shift. You don't need an MGW shifter as it doesn't do anything to change the internal parts of the transmission which determine how the shift will progress. Both the stock, MGW and all other aftermarket shifters are nothing but a stick through a hole. All that can be changed is the height of the hole (fulcrum point), the diameter of the hole in relationship to the stick and how long the stick is. The working end of the stick moves a rod under the center console forward and backwards and rotates it from side to side and that motion is translated the rear of the transmission where it is coupled to the transmission shift mechanism. Some aftermarket shifters have springs mounted in them that increase the centering pressure on the shift mechanism and that will help people who can't shift move the gears from 2 to 3. However, the springs make the 4-5 shift harder and the 3-2 shift harder.
Bill
2-3 shift and 3-2 shift are as natural as they come for me. I learned the palm method years ago and rarely have an issue with the 2-3 shift. Even 5to2 is a piece of cake. 4to5 and 7to6 are not so great. Any tips for those shifts? Palm method doesn't seem to work for me on the 4 to 5 shift.
Last edited by Null Pointer; Aug 8, 2019 at 05:14 PM.
I have a stock shifter and don't miss the 2-3 shift. You don't need an MGW shifter as it doesn't do anything to change the internal parts of the transmission which determine how the shift will progress. Both the stock, MGW and all other aftermarket shifters are nothing but a stick through a hole. All that can be changed is the height of the hole (fulcrum point), the diameter of the hole in relationship to the stick and how long the stick is. The working end of the stick moves a rod under the center console forward and backwards and rotates it from side to side and that motion is translated the rear of the transmission where it is coupled to the transmission shift mechanism. Some aftermarket shifters have springs mounted in them that increase the centering pressure on the shift mechanism and that will help people who can't shift move the gears from 2 to 3. However, the springs make the 4-5 shift harder and the 3-2 shift harder.
Bill
Will partly disagree with you Bill. You are correct that they add a stronger spring which aids shifting 2-3. As well as makes 3-2 a little harder. However the upper box that bolts to the transmission is much sturdier and this makes it stiffer and more precise when it comes to shifting. The stock shifter is very light and flimsy. I was quite surprised. The MGW is a solid piece. Some don’t like the notchy feeling this gives. I myself love it. Shifting 1-4 with the stock one isn’t bad. It’s just a bit soft for me. The 5-7 gears were just to far apart as well as vague.
Ive had no problems since talking to the forums members on this post. I guess i wasnt used to the shifter wanting to self center. I heard the antivenom mod helps with some notchiness of the shifting mechanism.
2-3 shift and 3-2 shift are as natural as they come for me. I learned the palm method years ago and rarely have an issue with the 2-3 shift. Even 5to2 is a piece of cake. 4to5 and 7to6 are not so great. Any tips for those shifts? Palm method doesn't seem to work for me on the 4 to 5 shift.
To think, this line of conversation will never be had over on the C8 forum side. Sad.
2-3 shift issue
Sorry, I'm assuming something here. Changing fluid wouldn't help this particular problem, it is normally done to help with the "notchy" or rough nibbling of gears that sometimes happens when the fluid is not warmed up yet. Don't know your background with manuals but practice helps unless you're damaging the gears by not hitting them properly or FULLY depressing the clutch trying to hurry the shift. Good luck.
