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I ordered the Lingenfelter intercooler coolant expansion tank, it is a 2.5 gallon tank. I was wondering if someone offers a powerful coolant pump, do you know?
Are you talking about the tank that goes under the hood in front of the car or a tank that goes in the back of the car?
Got a pic of what you bought? We may be able to answer your question better being able to see it.
Are you talking about the tank that goes under the hood in front of the car or a tank that goes in the back of the car?
Got a pic of what you bought? We may be able to answer your question better being able to see it.
I bought this one. It's installed in the engine compartment on the left side:
I ordered the Lingenfelter intercooler coolant expansion tank, it is a 2.5 gallon tank. I was wondering if someone offers a powerful coolant pump, do you know?
I bought a new Edelbrock Water Pump and Harness for my supercharger setup but never installed them. I was told it was much better and more reliable than the LT4 water pump.
I am adding 2.5 gallons to the oem system. That's why I asked. I have some doubts on the original pump..
The pump doesn't care how much more you add. The hoses and heat exchanger lines that either supply the pump or are on its output port restrict the amount of coolant flowing through the pump. If it would fit in the car you could attach a 20-gallon garbage can as an additional reservoir and still not overwhelm the pump. The biggest issue with the intercooler is making sure all of the air is out of the system. If there is air captured in the cooling bricks it doesn't matter how much extra coolant you have in a tank in the engine compartment.
The 15/16 bricks tilt slightly toward the front of the car. This can be seen by parking the car on level ground, removing the cover and placting a level on the bricks. The tilted bricks in the 17 and newer cars are further out of level and can capture even more air. The only way to get the air out is to vacuum fill the system by repeatedly pulling a vacuum and removing air until no more bubbles come out, then pull more coolant into the system by releasing the vacuum through a fill port. Once the vacuum has been relieved by pulling in more coolant you need to repeat and repeat and repeat for several hours to get the air out. It does help to raise the front of the car to at least level the bricks. Even with the bricks level, the inlet and outlet ports of the bricks are below the SC fill port level.
2.5 gallons of coolant sitting in a reservoir doesn't help if the bricks are half full of air.
The pump doesn't care how much more you add. The hoses and heat exchanger lines that either supply the pump or are on its output port restrict the amount of coolant flowing through the pump. If it would fit in the car you could attach a 20-gallon garbage can as an additional reservoir and still not overwhelm the pump. The biggest issue with the intercooler is making sure all of the air is out of the system. If there is air captured in the cooling bricks it doesn't matter how much extra coolant you have in a tank in the engine compartment.
The 15/16 bricks tilt slightly toward the front of the car. This can be seen by parking the car on level ground, removing the cover and placting a level on the bricks. The tilted bricks in the 17 and newer cars are further out of level and can capture even more air. The only way to get the air out is to vacuum fill the system by repeatedly pulling a vacuum and removing air until no more bubbles come out, then pull more coolant into the system by releasing the vacuum through a fill port. Once the vacuum has been relieved by pulling in more coolant you need to repeat and repeat and repeat for several hours to get the air out. It does help to raise the front of the car to at least level the bricks. Even with the bricks level, the inlet and outlet ports of the bricks are below the SC fill port level.
2.5 gallons of coolant sitting in a reservoir doesn't help if the bricks are half full of air.
The tank isn't going to do anything for air pockets.
Lpe makes a modified high Amp stewart water pump. I would recommend it, and also look into reversing flow in the system so that the pump is gravity fed directly from the tank
The tank isn't going to do anything for air pockets.
Lpe makes a modified high Amp stewart water pump. I would recommend it, and also look into reversing flow in the system so that the pump is gravity fed directly from the tank
Do you have the link? Can't find it on their store sorry
The pump doesn't care how much more you add. The hoses and heat exchanger lines that either supply the pump or are on its output port restrict the amount of coolant flowing through the pump. If it would fit in the car you could attach a 20-gallon garbage can as an additional reservoir and still not overwhelm the pump. The biggest issue with the intercooler is making sure all of the air is out of the system. If there is air captured in the cooling bricks it doesn't matter how much extra coolant you have in a tank in the engine compartment.
The 15/16 bricks tilt slightly toward the front of the car. This can be seen by parking the car on level ground, removing the cover and placting a level on the bricks. The tilted bricks in the 17 and newer cars are further out of level and can capture even more air. The only way to get the air out is to vacuum fill the system by repeatedly pulling a vacuum and removing air until no more bubbles come out, then pull more coolant into the system by releasing the vacuum through a fill port. Once the vacuum has been relieved by pulling in more coolant you need to repeat and repeat and repeat for several hours to get the air out. It does help to raise the front of the car to at least level the bricks. Even with the bricks level, the inlet and outlet ports of the bricks are below the SC fill port level.
2.5 gallons of coolant sitting in a reservoir doesn't help if the bricks are half full of air.
Bill
Is it possible to have some bungs welded into the bricks at the highest point to allow bleeding out air? You would have to maintain a water level above that point when filling but it should work.
Is it possible to have some bungs welded into the bricks at the highest point to allow bleeding out air? You would have to maintain a water level above that point when filling but it should work.
Wouldnt be too hard to do, BUT you would have to remove the blower lid to do the bleeding so not really worth it
Is it possible to have some bungs welded into the bricks at the highest point to allow bleeding out air? You would have to maintain a water level above that point when filling but it should work.
I think it would be difficult to do. It would be like adding some bungs at the end of your radiator core except the intercooler high end doesn't have a tank fastened to it. I imagine it would be quite tricky trying to attach to each of those fluid paths and the result would fragile and prone to breaking.
I did some searching and you are correct. There is no way to add a bung to the factory bricks. There does look like a tank on both ends of the weapon x ones. If and when I get them from weapon x I will ask if they can add the bungs. Taking the lid off seems way less troublesome than the multiple vacuum an bleed system. There has to be a better way.
I did some searching and you are correct. There is no way to add a bung to the factory bricks. There does look like a tank on both ends of the weapon x ones. If and when I get them from weapon x I will ask if they can add the bungs. Taking the lid off seems way less troublesome than the multiple vacuum an bleed system. There has to be a better way.
There is a reason why you don't want any air evacuation valves under the lid and that is a leak from one of the valves. If one of them leaks the coolant will be sucked directly into the engine intake.