Dougpaper

Me also,

ss2z06

Didn't realize there may be a list. Please contact me as well once available.

Dr.Ron

Add me too!

Ron

edster75

I'd like to be on the list too!

black.z51.c6

Add me to that list, massive air pockets in my car

r84boomer66

Add me to list please

phalse

so the bottom line is that you need the tank which is used to have at least a couple quarts of fluid, and to never fully release the vacuum?

wouldn't the fluid flow back into the space inside the system previously occupied by air if you released the vacuum fully? i myself am unsure, not fully thought it through.

atljar

By coordinating changes in vacuum levels with actuation of the CAC pump, you can get a surging effect through the system. This helps remove air pockets in hard to bleed areas.

Keeping some level of vacuum on the system means that trapped air within the CAC circuit wants to continually move towards the vacuum pump, which is what we want. If you were to release vacuum fully, air pockets will just get stuck again. The goal is to keep them on the move and eventually out of the system entirely.

Dr.Ron

I checked my tank and after having bled it twice with the hand pump with the car raised on the end of my lift where the rear bumper was basically touching the ground. I had gotten it to where there were 2 silver dollar sized air pockets. I had not opened the system caps since. I checked again yesterday and 1 is now the diameter of a lemon cut in half and the other one is about 50% more than that. WTH??

Ron

SladeX

Even if doing the tilt method, steps must be taken to ensure that you don't have trapped air in the system. This is why we have to run the pump, pull and release vacuum multiple times, run the pump again and again until all that air is displaced properly. This is why I disconnected my reservoir and filled my overflow tube by quite a bit to ensure that when the fluid gets pulled back, that no air gets pulled back when vacuum is released. To ensure this, I did some vacuum releases while the intercooler pump was running to boost fluid circulation.

If you have an aggressive vacuum/release system with a good reserve as I imagine the op's intercooler bleed box is, then there should be sufficient coolant reserve in the box to always ensure that on the cycle of vacuum to release that it never allows air to get back in, but also takes advantage of the pressure differential to provide more of a dislodging force to move any trapped air.

atljar

That's fairly common from what I've seen, including on my own car before I came up with this system. My hypothesis somewhat ties back into statements I made before about the reservoir being a gauge to how much air is in the system. Even if you bleed it well and get most of the air out of the reservoir, there is still air trapped in the intercooler bricks, or on the top side of the forward heat exchanger, in the lines etc. These pockets can create microscopic air bubbles or dissolved air in the coolant, which eventually will accumulate and build up in the reservoir again. In extreme cases it will even cause the CAC pump to shut down from cavitation (see some of the G Speed threads if you haven't, credit to them on that discovery).

If you put the CAC system under a decent vacuum and watch the coolant being removed from the system (whether with my bleeder or a hand vacuum pump and tube setup), you will see large air bubbles coming out of it. If you then run the coolant pump while under vacuum, you will see tons of small bubbles also coming out. It almost looks like fizzy carbonation in a soft drink. Keep repeating the process you did, and eventually the air building up in the reservoir after driving will be less and less. The fizzy carbonation effect will also end. Its just a laborious venture doing it that way. I have not seen any major air pockets reform after using my Bleeder, BUT from the cars I have done it seems like they go from two dime sized spots to about two quarter sized spots of air in the reservoir. Then from that point they will stabilize.

atljar

Agreed!

LagunaSecaZ06

I'll take one. Add me to the list. Thanks!

Buddy A

I would like to be on the list

Prop Job

The top of the reservoir isn't the only place that traps air, it's just the only place you can see. Air is also trapped in the top of the heat exchanger and the top of the intercooler bricks. I don't care how much vacuum you pull, if you don't lift the car from the front and bleed under vacuum, then lift from the driver's side and bleed under vacuum you will never get all the air out. I made a detailed write up on how to properly bleed our cars and tried to get it stickied but never got any traction.

bhk2

subscribed

atljar

While I agree that the reservoir is not the only place that traps air, this statement above is scientifically incorrect. When you start pulling vacuums down to the micron levels, like you can with a HVAC pump, air doesn't remain, that's the whole concept of vacuum bleeding. It just turns out that pneumatic bleeders don't have anough power to get you there

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bhizzleZ

@atljar will this be able to complete other vehicles with the kit you'll put together? Additionally, can you provide your website where we can purchase, so I can keep an eye out for when they go live. Can I pick up as I am in Dayton?

B

atljar

For The 'Cooler Bleeder to function there are two qualifications:
- First, every vehicle is going to need a method needed to attach to the CAC cooling circuit. As of right now, I have "plugs" (basically adapters) available for Cadillac ATS-V, CTS V-Sport, CTS-V, XTS-V, Chevrolet Camaro ZL1, Cobalt SS, Corvette Z06, Corvette ZR1, Ford Mustang GT500, SVT Lightning, SVT Mustang Cobra and Saturn Ion Red Line. I also have a plug for Corvette LT4 with Maggie 2300, and very soon CPR expansion tanks. For a more exacting break down of the exact year by year coverages, see the connection chart on my website.
- Secondly, the vehicle's onboard CAC / intercooler pump has to be wired a certain way from the factory, max of 20a draw, and it cant be a can-bus controlled pump. This hasn't been too problematic, yet. I foresee eventually everything will be can-bus controlled, but we aren't there yet. I also haven't seen any amp draw issues with any pump yet, other than aftermarket reprogramed Stewarts.

All the models I mention, I've already done the R/D and homework to make sure the plug and the wiring all works, and provide that information to you on the connection chart. Once you own the main bleeding unit, when I come out with additional model fitments, you simply will have to buy the new plug to have coverage for the new model.

I also have universal Tee fittings, as was discussed a little on the first page. This will allow you to hookup the bleeder to most any CAC hoses and create your own bleed port. From there, you will need to find out how to get The 'Cooler Bleeders power output to your CAC pump (I can help as needed)

The website is www.coolerbleeder.com . I expect Mid May / early June for units to be back in stock. You are more than welcome to pickup locally. I can give a in person demo/tutorial as well, if you would like.

-Jared

edster75

Definitely interested in one. I own a small machine shop so pm me if u need any parts made.