Hi, quick question. Any detriment to lowering a C7 ZO6 on the stock bolts? Other than the driveway rash on front spoiler, does it change any handling attributes? Tried to look for previous posts on this, but I was not able to narrow down the search field to try to isolate on the topic. Thanks. My apologies if this has been beaten to death.

 

Depends on use. For day to day driving the impacts will not be significant.

For the track yes it will make a difference on the stock suspension/aero. The car's rake, aero, damper controls, etc are all designed for an approximate ride height. A modified track car would take all of that into account.

 

This ^^

I lowered mine as far as it would go on the stock bolts. It looks better in my opinion and now the two front measurements are the same @27" and the two rear @ 27.5" to the top of the wheel openings. Stock height to the top of the wheel openings ~27.5" front and ~29.3" rear I learned from Bill on another thread here. I am thinking about raising the rear so it is 6.9-7% higher than the front for rake. I will align after that. I do drive aggressively, however, this is not my track car.

 

How does lowering with Mag ride affect suspension?

 

So I just tried lowering mine this morning with no luck. I couldn't get the bolts to move either way and I put some WD40 on them before I started. I jacked it up and then put stands under the leaf springs to take pressure off and they wouldn't budge. It appears that someone may have tried before me since I'm the second owner and there is lots of thread left below the spring so it hasn't been lowered before and I hate the f--king tire gap. Its killing me.

 

I would like to try to help if i can. My question is exactly how did you take the pressure off the leaf springs with a stand? I have to use two jacks to adjust my bolts. One under the frame to lift the wheel then another to push up on the end of the leaf spring. I usually have about a 1/4-1/2 gap between the bottom pad on the adjuster and the control arm. I can actually turn the bolts with my fingers but I use a wrench so I can keep track of how much I turned it. If the rubber pad on the adjuster is in contact with the control arm it will be very hard or nearly impossible to turn.

 

You have to release some pressure from the bolt by applying a vertical load to the leaf spring (using a jack and some rubber or plywood in between) otherwise it'll be a nightmare. It sounds like you were using the jack stand on the leaf and the jack on your subframe which means the load path will end up mostly at the jack once the spring deflects a little bit. Switch it around.

 

Thanks I appreciate it. I tried that yesterday and I could see the spring move, maybe I didn't get it off the control arm. I'll give it another should later, thanks again

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Let me know if it works.

 

Will do, thanks

 

lower on stock bolts a must for aesthetics.takes the 4x4 look out of your sports car.
before
Attachment 48334182

after

Attachment 48334183

 

before and after pics lowered all the way down on stock bolts.
before
Attachment 48338163
after
Attachment 48332516

 

So I tried again and I can't get the leaf spring to move so I can adjust it. I've tried both ways jacking it from the rear cradle and then used another jack with a block of wood and then also tried jacking it from the frame mounting puck area and then jacking the leaf spring with the block again and it won't move upward at all. Not sure what the hell is going on but it won't move in the rear on either side. I haven't tried the front since I can't get the rear lowered. I've watched just about every lowering video on Youtube and I'm doing exactly what they all did. WTF?

 

I had my C6Z lowered when I bought it, it was driving awfull.
same would I expect from the C7Z, I did not lower mine, as the springs will receive pre-load, which does not speak for traction.

Even I do not like the height (GT3's are much lower optically) I will keep it, to have the drivability. no matter on the looks. (form follows function, not otherway round)

 

Thanks for your input and I wasn't going to do a full lowering. Just want to get rid of some gap.

 

From my experience, I jacked mine up one side at a time at the rear jacking points, and as you mentioned jacked the leaf spring upward about 1-2” with another jack. I used a wash rag between the jack and leaf spring to keep it from damaging/scratching the surface of the leaf spring. Make sure when you’re placing the jack under the spring to hit an area that can be pushed upwards and not near the mounting point.
The spring has to move up/down because it is apart of the overall suspension architecture and you would have a significant issue when driving the car if the spring were ceased in place.
hope this helps.

 

Thanks again, I'm racing this weekend so I'll give it a shot next week.

 

here you go vid