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Hey guys. Getting ready to do the first oil change on my Z06. First time doing a dry sump system.
Just to double check here is the procedure I would do (correct me if I'm wrong):
1. Get oil temp up to ~150 F
2. Remove both drain plugs, let oil drain.
3. Remove filter, let remaining oil drain.
4. Fill new oil filter with oil and replace old one.
5. Put drain plugs back in.
6. Put 9 quarts of oil in.
7. Get engine oil up to ~150 F
8. Check level and top off if necessary. ( I read the capacity is 9.7 qts but some oil will remain in the dry sump system so usually 9 its is adequate)
Also, I have a set of race ramps that I will be driving the car up on. Do I need to jack the car up in the back as well so it is level while draining the oil? Or is it okay to drain the oil with the car at a slight angle from just the front of the car up on the race ramps?
All good. Your socket won't get to the second plug (cooler is in the way), so have a 15mm box wrench handy. Personally, I do my oil changes in the spring before I take the car out of storage. I store it on wheel cribs, so since the car is already up off the ground all the way around, I take advantage and get it done. I also have race ramps, but as you mention, it's better to have the car level. Do you have a low profile oil pan? Maybe jack up the front left, undo the plugs, then drop the car back down to drain.
Wheel cribs from Race Ramps. 2piece, total 10” rise. You can use just 1 or both. Great for Xpipes swaps, oil/diff/trans fluid changes, general underbody work or winter storage.
I agree with previous comments. However, my dad taught me to not only fill new oil filter but also lubricate gasket ring. Maybe you did that anyway? Used Race Ramps and cribs for fluid changes until we got a QuickJack. Makes a huge difference in accessing underneath and sets up much faster. Contemplated getting the QJ brackets to hang them in wall but they are fairly heavy. So, I just keep them on the floor, in middle of my parking space. Drive right over them! Of course, front camera is my trusty guide!
You forgot the most important steps:
9) Reset the OLM.
10) Put your receipts in a safe place to help prove you changed the oil.
Also, it would be good to use the correct torque values for the drain plugs and filter.
I change my oil using my lift. I don't let the engine get hot so I don't burn myself on certain parts. I let the oil drain from both drain plugs and the filter until it stops dripping, then I reinstall the plugs and install a new filter. The engine oil capacity is listed as 9.8 quarts in the OM. There isn't much oil left in the engine after it is drained. To determine how much to add during a change I measured out 0.8 quarts of oil and added 9.8 quarts to the reservoir, this brought the oil level to the top dot after the engine was brought up to operating temperature (175-degree OIL Temperature), turned off and waiting 5 minutes to check the oil. Since I track the car quite often I now I just add 10 quarts of oil and top off with an additional 0.3 quarts to bring the total amount to 10.3 quarts as recommended in the Track Prep section of the OM.
If you don't take the car to the track don't worry about having a little oil showing above the top dot. It won't hurt anything. In 2014 GM listed the dry-sump capacity at 10.3 quarts and then dropped it to 9.8 in 2015. From the 2014 OM:
They didn't change the dry-sump between those two years. It is basically the same unit that has existed since the 2009 C6 ZR1 was introduced with the 10.3 quart capacity.
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
I would not drive my car up on ramps (especially with an M7), but others may disagree with me. I lift the front of the car and slide them under the wheels. I also believe the car should be level when draining the oil.
I’ve loaded and unloaded my M7 on a trailer many of times. I know what you mean.
But if you’re doing all of the work of lifting and dropping, might want to get the wheel cribs I posted above. Safe, light, easy to store and since they’re 2 piece, you decide how high you want to go
I thought I was the only one who squirmed with an M7 and ramps LOL. I do it, but I’m very quick on the brake pedal as soon as it gets to the top.
This is my 4th manual play car. With the Z, I actually went ahead and built some wooden ramps with a much more gradual incline. Them sumbitches weight a lot
I’ve been using the 67 “ race ramps on my 16 Z m7 and have no issues with the front spoiler. The 67” ramps are a very gradual angle and present no problem
Last edited by andreas g.; May 10, 2021 at 10:00 PM.
I use my low floor jack, jackstands on the driver's side front and rear, remove both drain plugs and oil filter and let drip till done. I then lower the car to flat and probably get around another quart - quite a bit is released when back level. So I definitely second the idea of draining it while level, by whatever mechanics you get the car level to drain.
In lieu of a lift I have went to Renn-Stand Safe Jacks. Great time to bleed the brakes while I have it up on all fours to change the oil/filter. I did the rear differential fluid change while I had it up on all fours in these pics, below. Well worth the time/money to do that; I think it was 24 ounces ish low.
Soon after I got the car with 5k miles on it. The stock Michelin Cup tires rode well on a good surface but they had like 3/16's tread left at most. Have to lift the rear first to get just enough room with my second jack to clear my Carbon Fiber package. Of course, you have to remember this when lowering, as well. Overall, a very small price to pay for the convenience of the Safe Jack stands. Had it on just the two front Safe Jack stands to pull the bumper, radiator, and HX.
Last edited by BigVette427; May 9, 2021 at 03:49 PM.
OP your procedures sound good, just make sure to follow the general maintenance philosophy listed above of safely lifting the vehicle and torquing to spec.
Wheel cribs from Race Ramps. 2piece, total 10” rise. You can use just 1 or both. Great for Xpipes swaps, oil/diff/trans fluid changes, general underbody work or winter storage.
5” 10”
I'm assuming you have 2 10" crib sets? looks like it, and your just using the "tops" when storing it I'm assuming?
Mine are the 10" total guys. 5 on each block. I decided to get these because with the car being another 5 or 6 inches off the ground, it's perfect clearance for me. I ordered these from Fred at Reverse Logic, a vendor here, about 3 years ago
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Oil change question
Having a lift makes SO many things easier.
