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Hey guys, new to the forum and brand new to owning a C7 Z06. Not too familiar with these cars and their platforms yet, but I will get there.
I’m wondering what I need to do to make around 700 at the wheels in my car… anywhere from 680-750 would be nice. And I would like to stay on pump gas because there is no E85 near me.
I come from owning a Hellcat Challenger and while they are just big bricks with massive engines they are extremely easy to build power out of and relatively cheap to build as well. Just trying to see what I can do with my new Vette.
Supposedly he made 687 to the wheels.. I like that the Magnuson runs cooler and you are able to spin it faster than stock if I choose to continue to build it and push harder. Just wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks.
Supposedly he made 687 to the wheels.. I like that the Magnuson runs cooler and you are able to spin it faster than stock if I choose to continue to build it and push harder. Just wondering what your thoughts are. Thanks.
Pretty much on the cooling part. My tiny 1.7 ported SC once you get in it the IATs go pretty high.
I made 650/685 to the wheels with 2" LTs (no cats), 2.3 upper, and a 5" CPR CAI plus a tune to tie it all together. I added the CPR expansion tank to deal with coolant temps and a MM catch can since CPR sells it bolted to the expansion tank for easy install. Never see coolant temps over 210 now even when it's 100+ here in the summer. If you're doing an upper pulley they'll pull the blower off the car anyway so it would be easy to swap to a ported blower at that time without paying more labor. You also have to raise up the blower to install the catch can so might as well do that at the same time. The ported blower will give you a bit more power so that may get you to 675 rwhp which is pretty close to the stock fuel system limit anyway. The stock fuel system will lose juice around 700 rwhp +/1 20 rwhp. Meth will shore that up if you want to get over 700 as was mentioned above.
Personally, I don't think it's worth the 25-30 extra hp to add a lower. Adding the lower to the mix will just raise the underhood temps so you'll get one or two good pulls and then lose power from heat soak. Magnuson doesn't make the 2300 anymore but you may be able to find a used one somewhere. Otherwise it's the 2650 you'll need but that adds $7k to the price of your build (unless you install yourself) and you'll still end up at 685-700 so that's kind of a waste just to get bigger cooling bricks. There are other ways to keep the car cool for much less $ and it's really not a big deal on the street with just an upper and expansion tank (which is $500). Swapping to a bigger blower won't help you get over 700 rwhp, you are capped there without meth or fuel system upgrades (cam + low-side or SPI are the primary options) no matter what mods you throw at the car.
If you'd be happy with a little less, I did a 2.17 upper pulley, CAI and a tune. Very happy with the results with about 650 rwhp. There is probably more but dyno day was a hot rainy day.
I made 650/685 to the wheels with 2" LTs (no cats), 2.3 upper, and a 5" CPR CAI plus a tune to tie it all together. I added the CPR expansion tank to deal with coolant temps and a MM catch can since CPR sells it bolted to the expansion tank for easy install. Never see coolant temps over 210 now even when it's 100+ here in the summer. If you're doing an upper pulley they'll pull the blower off the car anyway so it would be easy to swap to a ported blower at that time without paying more labor. You also have to raise up the blower to install the catch can so might as well do that at the same time. The ported blower will give you a bit more power so that may get you to 675 rwhp which is pretty close to the stock fuel system limit anyway. The stock fuel system will lose juice around 700 rwhp +/1 20 rwhp. Meth will shore that up if you want to get over 700 as was mentioned above.
Personally, I don't think it's worth the 25-30 extra hp to add a lower. Adding the lower to the mix will just raise the underhood temps so you'll get one or two good pulls and then lose power from heat soak. Magnuson doesn't make the 2300 anymore but you may be able to find a used one somewhere. Otherwise it's the 2650 you'll need but that adds $7k to the price of your build (unless you install yourself) and you'll still end up at 685-700 so that's kind of a waste just to get bigger cooling bricks. There are other ways to keep the car cool for much less $ and it's really not a big deal on the street with just an upper and expansion tank (which is $500). Swapping to a bigger blower won't help you get over 700 rwhp, you are capped there without meth or fuel system upgrades (cam + low-side or SPI are the primary options) no matter what mods you throw at the car.
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Weaponx Motorsports has the 2300… at least they say they do. So if that is the case do you think that the 2300 SC, ARH Headers, Intake, Ported Throttle body, and a Tune will get me around that 680? I’m just thinking if I can get my hands on the 2300 I don’t have to worry about cooling and also read they are good for 800whp for future mods.
I am at 700 rwhp 711 tq with cam, ARH headers, Kong ported blower, NW throttle body, pulley, DSX low side fueling and tune. I am on 93 octane as no E85 near me either.
Appreciate all the options and info guys.. one last question, as I said before I’m not too familiar with these platforms so this might be a dumb question. But does anybody run generic tunes on these? Or does everyone get them dyno-tuned. I only ask because I’m having a hard time finding a reputable tuner around me (Central FL).
regardless of the blower you use spend all the money you can on cooling mods. synergy twin hidden expansion tanks (5 gal total) cordes or Texas speed engine bay tank (another 1.5-2 gal. ) bigger lines with synergy an fitting to oem , c&r heat exchanger. with close to 7 gals of fluid cooling you should never have to worry about heat soak on the blower.you could even replace the open pump with a emp high flow pump. at the track drain the engine bay tank and fill with ice. port the blower and snout and t/b to ease the breathing of the blower. once this is all done then you can decide on pulley size upper or lower intake and cam setup. the final step is a proper tuner who actually knows what to do on these cars
I did Magnuson 2650, 103mm tb, 5" cordes intake, 2" kooks headers/x pipe.
Basically just better breathing for the car, and exhaust. The blower is barely spinning too so overheating isn't even a thing.
I think this is the simplest way to get to 700 whp and have it be reliable. You don't have as much torque as the smaller blowers though, but you have a lot of room to grow.
I did Magnuson 2650, 103mm tb, 5" cordes intake, 2" kooks headers/x pipe.
Basically just better breathing for the car, and exhaust. The blower is barely spinning too so overheating isn't even a thing.
I think this is the simplest way to get to 700 whp and have it be reliable. You don't have as much torque as the smaller blowers though, but you have a lot of room to grow.
what tq did it make , Magnuson says it makes less tq down low but more up top.