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Discovered a minor tapping noise and narrowed it down to a faulty manifold gasket. Jacked the car up removed the fuse box, and coolant reservoir, wires and all 5 manifold bolts. Came to the final one in the very back by firewall and yup rounded the f***er off and now I’m stuck and pi**ed off. On a side note I do physique competitions so I’m on gear rn to try to get bigger and of course the side effects are anger and agitation (I’m definitely feeling both of those now with this damn Z). So after 2 hours here I sit with a stripped bolt. Can anyone offer me any advice short of take it to a shop on removing this one bolt. Like is there a special tool etc or some method I haven’t thought of? As always your advice is always appreciated.
If you can get a vice grip to grab, try that. Next would be to weld a nut onto the stripped bolt head. Final attempt would be to ground off the head and remove the headers...then deal with the bolt in the same way...vice grips, weld a nut.
Discovered a minor tapping noise and narrowed it down to a faulty manifold gasket. Jacked the car up removed the fuse box, and coolant reservoir, wires and all 5 manifold bolts. Came to the final one in the very back by firewall and yup rounded the f***er off and now I’m stuck and pi**ed off. On a side note I do physique competitions so I’m on gear rn to try to get bigger and of course the side effects are anger and agitation (I’m definitely feeling both of those now with this damn Z). So after 2 hours here I sit with a stripped bolt. Can anyone offer me any advice short of take it to a shop on removing this one bolt. Like is there a special tool etc or some method I haven’t thought of? As always your advice is always appreciated.
I could be wrong but the bolt looks like it might be cross threaded as it does not look like it is not sitting parallel on the flange. Alternatively, trying to remove it could have bent the bolt shank.
I could be wrong but the bolt looks like it might be cross threaded as it does not look like it is not sitting parallel on the flange. Alternatively, trying to remove it could have bent the bolt shank.
Rob
You might try reinstalling one or more of the removed bolts - that could take the uneven pressure off of the stuck bolt by getting the header back flat. Some penetrating oil, and some heat (be careful not to burn anything) and then a turbo-socket (backout socket), vice grips (probably will not work), or tap on a smaller socket (maybe a metric or SAE six point).
I agree the next step would probably grinding the head off - remove the header - then try the above again with vise grips (heat and penetrating oil).
I could be wrong but the bolt looks like it might be cross threaded as it does not look like it is not sitting parallel on the flange. Alternatively, trying to remove it could have bent the bolt shank.
Rob
I think you are correct. I installed the headers 800 miles ago and I think with the heat cycles after driving it blew the gasket bc I didn’t properly screw that bolt in 🤦🏻♂️. I’m picking up 2 new ones later
You might try reinstalling one or more of the removed bolts - that could take the uneven pressure off of the stuck bolt by getting the header back flat. Some penetrating oil, and some heat (be careful not to burn anything) and then a turbo-socket (backout socket), vice grips (probably will not work), or tap on a smaller socket (maybe a metric or SAE six point).
I agree the next step would probably grinding the head off - remove the header - then try the above again with vise grips (heat and penetrating oil).
Jim
Yep put a few of other ones back in it will help get the one loose then warm the bolt with a torch then try getting it out with maybe a special socket or What I would do is tap the right size impact socket on the hot nut you will get it!
When you re-install the headers, use stainless steel ARP bolts with Anti-seize and torque to the proper rating. The cause here is either over torquing or failure to use an anti-seize with two dissimilar metals. Over torquing can cause the threads in the heads to sheer and stretch which almost lock them up and the not using anti-seize can cause stainless steel and aluminum to form a corrosion, locking up the bolt. Anyhow, I'm not here to criticize, only advise how to avoid this when reassembling.
Most of the advice is sound here, consider maybe some mild heat application as well.
I never have had luck with sets like that...but you never know. If the bolt is, indeed, cross threaded, then you will need to run a tap into the head after removing the bolt, to clean up the threads. Check them closely, as these are highly heated and stressed threads. If in doubt, you may need to install a new insert.
WHenever installing a steel bolt into aluminum, always use an anti-seize compound.
Header bolts don’t give you a lot of room to operate. I remove headers on sprint cars frequently, and find long handled wrenches or deep, thin-wall sockets work best. And always use six point and not 12! I’m guessing the OP just rounded the head. It’s not impossible to cross thread a head bolt, but most are course threads and those are tougher to cross-thread.
Update. I finished her Friday evening fellas. It actually wasn’t cross threaded after getting the old bolt removed. Like a complete idiot I somehow accidentally knocked my wrench to tighten instead of loosen 🤦🏻♂️. That’s how I rounded off the head. The harbor freight set worked like a champ and off it came. I installed all new header bolts and the issue 13 hours later was resolved 😂. Again major thanks to everyone on here bc yes it helped me out big time. Hopefully I’m able to repay the favor in the future. Coincidentally I’m building a C7Z manual from the ground up that was a recovered theft. I’m talking it’s a bare naked tub but I’ve came a long ways with it. Hopefully should fire up this coming weekend/next Monday at the latest.
Update. I finished her Friday evening fellas. It actually wasn’t cross threaded after getting the old bolt removed. Like a complete idiot I somehow accidentally knocked my wrench to tighten instead of loosen 🤦🏻♂️. That’s how I rounded off the head. The harbor freight set worked like a champ and off it came. I installed all new header bolts and the issue 13 hours later was resolved 😂. Again major thanks to everyone on here bc yes it helped me out big time. Hopefully I’m able to repay the favor in the future. Coincidentally I’m building a C7Z manual from the ground up that was a recovered theft. I’m talking it’s a bare naked tub but I’ve came a long ways with it. Hopefully should fire up this coming weekend/next Monday at the latest.
Righty tighty lefty loosey. Don't blame the wrench next time while you're working on your project car.
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Stripped header bolt help 😡
while you're working on your project car.