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There have been discussions that the brakes will squeak due to the fact that the rotors are not slotted and the brake pad material has been altered for environmental reasons. Does anybody think that the squeaking will be different, either greater or less, if you get the Z51 package with the larger brake pads.
Brake squeal is a function of pad compound... the pads vibrate at a resonant frequency and cause the audible squeal. Slots or no slots won't matter, but the new CA-approved compound might. I expect my sports cars to squeal some at low operating temps. It's normal.
If mine squeak, I'll bypass the dealer and install some aftermarket ceramic pads. Can't stand squeaking brakes, but at least there'll probably be a solution.
Brake squeal is a function of pad compound... the pads vibrate at a resonant frequency and cause the audible squeal. Slots or no slots won't matter, but the new CA-approved compound might. I expect my sports cars to squeal some at low operating temps. It's normal.
I agree. Good brakes squeak. Worrying/fretting about brake squeak is like worrying/fretting about whether the sun will come up tomorrow morning.
If you want to stop, right now, from <say> 180 MPH you need pads that can take that kind of heat.
If, perchance, you need to do this over and over again (say at a race track), you NEED pads that can TAKE that kind of heat.
Pads that can take that kind of heat will squeal at pedestrian pace.
You need to go through a Bedding In Brake Rotors process.
This can help for sure but the nature of larger fixed calipers is that they are stiffer so combined with moderately aggressive pads increases the likelihood of squeal at certain conditions. If the system creates it you will struggle to eliminate it. Softer pads can help
Clean pad/rotor surface and bevel pad edges - yes
Grease - not really. Damping coefficient of grease is zero. It's a lubricant. Lube the pads where they contact/move in the caliper.
Rebed to keep a good pad transfer layer - yes.
By the way - when do these things land? I need a set of pads so we can start making them.
The amount of counterweights, springs, isolators, shims, and other considerations that Brembo uses in the higher end luxury applications is impressive.
This can help for sure but the nature of larger fixed calipers is that they are stiffer so combined with moderately aggressive pads increases the likelihood of squeal at certain conditions. If the system creates it you will struggle to eliminate it. Softer pads can help
Clean pad/rotor surface and bevel pad edges - yes
Grease - not really. Damping coefficient of grease is zero. It's a lubricant. Lube the pads where they contact/move in the caliper.
Rebed to keep a good pad transfer layer - yes.
By the way - when do these things land? I need a set of pads so we can start making them.
The amount of counterweights, springs, isolators, shims, and other considerations that Brembo uses in the higher end luxury applications is impressive.
What I find interesting is that the C7 owner's manual says to avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles which is contrary to what is normally recommended for brake break-in (except you don't come to a full stop during break-in). I assume this will be the same for the C8.
Is this due to the hardened surface layer of the OEM brake rotors?
This can help for sure but the nature of larger fixed calipers is that they are stiffer so combined with moderately aggressive pads increases the likelihood of squeal at certain conditions. If the system creates it you will struggle to eliminate it. Softer pads can help
Clean pad/rotor surface and bevel pad edges - yes
Grease - not really. Damping coefficient of grease is zero. It's a lubricant. Lube the pads where they contact/move in the caliper.
Rebed to keep a good pad transfer layer - yes.
By the way - when do these things land? I need a set of pads so we can start making them.
The amount of counterweights, springs, isolators, shims, and other considerations that Brembo uses in the higher end luxury applications is impressive.
Are you bound by CA restrictions in eliminating copper from your pads? If not, then I'm guessing adding or maintaining its use in your compound(s) should help
Are you bound by CA restrictions in eliminating copper from your pads? If not, then I'm guessing adding or maintaining its use in your compound(s) should help
Well I just sell them so I think I am OK.
I have talked with some of the manufacturer's about it a bit. That specific compound info is pretty well guarded but yes the copper is a big thing.
What I find interesting is that the C7 owner's manual says to avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles which is contrary to what is normally recommended for brake break-in (except you don't come to a full stop during break-in). I assume this will be the same for the C8.
Is this due to the hardened surface layer of the OEM brake rotors?
I would assume they want some more gentle heat cycling and pad bedding when all is brand new.
Ideally the break in is not immediate high heat to the discs.
Last edited by KNSBrakes; Feb 13, 2020 at 02:30 PM.
What I find interesting is that the C7 owner's manual says to avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles which is contrary to what is normally recommended for brake break-in (except you don't come to a full stop during break-in).
Good rule of thumb: begin the brake break-in after you've done the 500 mile drive train break-in. Wait longer if you have carbon ceramics.