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I'm getting ready to install an OEM front splitter where I have none right now... From what I see it's supposed to be pretty straight forward. I have a 4 post lift... Any tips ? Any potential problems like varying screw lengths or fender clip nuts shifting or falling off ? Torque spec ? Which screws go back first... ? Center out ? Left Right ?
TIA
^^^
This is my Pic/Caption PDF of the C7 Carbon equivalent to the GM 5VM Splitter I installed. It shows removing the OEM Z51 plastic Splitter that you are installing: http://netwelding.com/Side_Skirts.pdf
You will remove the same screws that attached the rubber like Aero panel. Don't need too much torque. In fact when I removed the many screws on mine I used a hand ratchet. For the Splitter Screws (which are the same holding the aero panel on your car) it's a T15 Torx. Much quicker than messing with my electric screwdriver etc and assures the correct torque, which you'll "feel" when removing is minimal.
RE Sequence, I started my install at one end as had to put the other on a makeshift support as you'll see. If you are installing the Z51 OEM plastic splitter it is in 3 pieces and should be assembled into a single unit first. In my case, found most screws went into the threaded clips. The few that didn't, I went back and used an awl to align the metal clip with the hole. That's easy as the clips are attached to the rubber like material and can move slightly. Once aligned installed those screws. The clips are very secure and won't fall off. All screws were the same length.
Top pic is from my PDF of AC Condenser Protective Mesh Install where I used a method to hide the plastic tires. That requires removing the center grill bar from the rear, which is a bit tricky hence the needed for the 7mm socket in two lengths. T15 was used for Splitter.
From what I see it's supposed to be pretty straight forward. I have a 4 post lift...
FWIW. Just another note for folks with two post lifts as I assume your 4 post has drive-on wraps. I reviewed this pic with the great Corvette Tech who did my PDI. It was his first C8 and he had not seen this pic of the dropped C8. He agreed with my assessment that even if the two post lift has adjustable rubber padded ends on the arms, it's too easy to have the rear contact an area outward of the frame AND GM oval Jack Pad slots.
Installing Lift Pads in the GM slots helps assure the C8 is lifted where necessary to prevent the 60% rear weight C8 from falling off! Many Dealer Techs (certainly tire shops where they like having the 4 wheels hanging) don't have these jack pads (or the tech doing the oil change, for example, is NOT going to the parts/tool room to check them out and return.) I bring 4 Jack Pads with me and discuss the need to use. This pic helps that understanding from the usual, I know what I'm doing!
^^^ That document makes me want to go mark the jacking points on my C8. Maybe four quick blasts of fluorescent yellow paint, one at each jacking point could save me from catastrophe!
^^^ That document makes me want to go mark the jacking points on my C8. Maybe four quick blasts of fluorescent yellow paint at each jacking point could safe me from catastrophe!
The only problem is to see the right location have to lay on your side! When I did my low dust pad, and side skirt install etc just what I did and also used a flashlight! Would be hard to see any colored marks. Frankly have always brought my jack pads even with my C7s to the large Chevy Dealer in town. They have ~18 post lifts with arms. Watched as a tech (not on my Vette) kicked the arm under a car with his foot! Fortunately after finding this great small dealer with a great Corvette Tech who did my Courtesy Delivery I now bring my C8 to them, some 30 miles away.
If I did not have side skirts (which do stick down a bit from the rocker's) I would consider using these Red Aluminum fixed pads. $39 on Amazon.
The only problem is to see the right location have to lay on your side! When I did my low dust pad, and side skirt install etc just what I did and also used a flashlight! Would be hard to see any colored marks. Frankly have always brought my jack pads even with my C7s to the large Chevy Dealer in town. They have ~18 post lifts with arms. Watched as a tech (not on my Vette) kicked the arm under a car with his foot! Fortunately after finding this great small dealer with a great Corvette Tech who did my Courtesy Delivery I now bring my C8 to them, some 30 miles away.
If I did not have side skirts (which do stick down a bit from the rocker's) I would consider using these Red Aluminum fixed pads. $39 on Amazon.
When I checked these out on Amazon there was no mention of them working on a C8, only the C5, C6 and C7.
Are the openings the same on the C8 as on earlier Models?
I like the fact that it makes the Jacking Points very obvious.
Thanks...
Last edited by Second Vette; Dec 7, 2020 at 12:40 PM.
^^^
See pic below.
The issue is at the location where you put the "Arrow," if jack pads are not used and lift arm is placed where there is a large area- it is NOT on the frame. It is outside the frame and that area is NOT designed to support the car!
You have to look underneath to insert the jack pads. Essentially have to put your head on the ground, then you can insert a lift pad in the GM oval slot on the frame.
My experience is most techs will not take the time to check out lift pads IF the dealer bought them. Going to where the Dealer has them and usually having of sign out for and then return, is a PIA. Most mechanics have their own tools and are not paying for Corvette Jack Pads!
Best to install permanent ones AND tell the tech they are there and "please put the lift arm end under them!" OR bring 4 and tell tech to use them.
Many C8 owner's won’t or don’t understand the C8 is different, especially at a tire shop where "no way" they have lift pads. We’ll see more dropped C8s😭
Splitter is on... Took about 45 minutes. Very easy.... It's hard to believe that the dealer wanted $450 for the splitter. I guess it would have been $2k if it was a Lambo or Ferrari.
Splitter is on... Took about 45 minutes. Very easy.... It's hard to believe that the dealer wanted $450 for the splitter. I guess it would have been $2k if it was a Lambo or Ferrari.
Non Z51... I thought car looked like something was missing without the splitter...
I agree,
Did you have to drill any new holes, or did everything line up with existing fasteners ( screws )
My non-Z51 C-8 should be here next month, and doing the same thing, but it's a one-piece aftermarket not the GM OEM one.
I agree,
Did you have to drill any new holes, or did everything line up with existing fasteners ( screws )
My non-Z51 C-8 should be here next month, and doing the same thing, but it's a one-piece aftermarket not the GM OEM one.
I think I counted 17 screws and 2 bolts. You take them out then position the splitter and put them back in. Done !
Not sure it matters but after assembling the 3 pieces together I attached the splitter with the front center screw first just threading it a few turns to hold it up and then I attached the outside corner bolts so the splitter was fully supported. Then I started the rest of the screws and tightened them from the center out. I snugged them and then went a half to a full turn so not to overtighten. All of the screws are the same length.
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Front Splitter Installation... ??
-- No Bumps for for me. I'll pay attention to my cameras. 