Yeah, adhesives suck. We avoid them as much as possible on rockets. Some kind of fastener is greatly preferred.

 

I have had at least 4 blendmounts. I’m not holding my breath. They said they were looking for a beta tester‘s in the area, so I contacted them. I’m not too far from their home office. Never heard back.

 

Wow didn't know my plastics engineering degree would ever come in play on this web site. I don't have my car yet to actually see the part but it is more than likely talc filled PP (polypropylene). PP has a very high surface energy and needs treated first. I recommend using Loctite plastic bonding system (96819250) or something similar. It comes with activator to prep the plastic. This can easily be found on sites like amazon.

 

Correctomundo. Clean the surfaces to be bonded with 99% IPA or similar and I would do it a minimum of twice, the second being with a new, clean cloth. Apply a thin film of Loctite Prism 480, place and hold for about 30 - 45 seconds. It will be good to go in about 8 to 10 hours given typical environmental conditions. I would recommend placing a stand fan or something like that to circulate air over the area being bonded to minimize the opportunity for blooming to occur. (Blooming = the white frosty looking surface contamination that often occurs around areas bonded with cyanoacrylate adhesives.

The benefit of a CA in a case like this is you do not have to fixture the part while the epoxy is curing and anyone who has done a lot of epoxy bonding of hard parts will tell you that while a two-part epoxy or acrylic is curing, holding it absolutely still is really quite critical once you get deep into the green stage and into curing cycle, the more critical that fixturing is. With CA, you have a very short fixture time that you can achieve by hand.

The drawback to CA is that you need the parts to be a good fit, the adhesive does not do a good job of gap filling. A few minutes on the hand-held part and some sandpaper to remove any high spots such as injection gates, ejection pin flash or any of that sort of thing is time well spent.

If you are dead set on an epoxy, I will suggest that you consider using low temp hot melt glue as a way of fixturing the part in place. Sounds silly, but it works. You just put enough on to hold the part in place while the epoxy is curing and then pick at it and remove the hot glue. Any of the reputable 2 part epoxies should be good to go if you have properly cleaned the surfaces, but you do need to consider that some consumer-grade epoxies may not form a permanent bond to materials with a high surface energy.

 

GM has used TPO for the interior plastic parts. Went through all the adhesive iterations and only found that a minimal bond can be had after heavily sanding the two surfaces and bonding with super glue (they are not all the same) while compress the glued area with clamps.

For more complicated bonding, I used a Harbor Freight plastic welder and fiberglass. Here's a near final pic of a modified 2014 Camaro door panel transformed into one for my 70 Malibu.

 

No need for dramatic overkill... 2” drywall screws should due the trick.