Did anyone notice in that they were jacking up the side of the car with a single jack. The jacking point appeared to be near the center of each side, however it could be the rear jacking point (the angle isn't very good). At 8:44 they appear to be letting the car down on one side while the other side is still off the ground. The front tire looks to be off the ground and few seconds later you see the rear tire being lowered from a different angle. Is this possible on the C8? I'm sure the chassis is stiff enough. Is there a safe spot to place a single jack between the rear puck location and the mid way point on each side? I don't have my C8 yet so I'm just curious. Good video, definitely worth a watch if you haven't seen it yet.

 

Don’t put a Jack anywhere other than the designated places. I’d bet you could do both wheel with one Jack. Just, I wouldn’t do it. To me, (yes this is MY opinion), it’s not smart. Then again, I’ve got several jacks, and a two post lift in my garage.

 

I jacked the rear of my C8 up and took this pick to show why it is important to put your wheel chocks on the other side of the car. Using the Rear jack point with the tire about 8 inches off the ground and the front looked like this.

 

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Yep, using the rear jack point will raise the front tire! Chassis is stiff and with 60% of the weight in the rear that is what will happen. C7 was similar if you used that front jacking point- the rear wheel came off the ground, albeit not this amount!

Would not remove the front wheel or get under the front (or rear) without, as a minimum a jack stand under the front "A" arm (my suggestion NOT from GM but have used that before on many cars.)

 

Yes, the car is plenty stiff that when you jack on the sides it can and will lift the entire side of the car. My 17 Camaro SS was like this as is my 19 C7z.

 

Thanks for the input. Much appreciated.

 

Can't remember where I found this pic, but saved it for reference.

 

It is a bit concerning there are no wheel chocks. I hope the parking brake is on and effective. I am sure this is supposed to be a demonstration of something.

 

Insane in my opinion. If you do not use wheel chocks and jack stands or two jacks, you are asking for an accident!!

 

Waiting for the “ jacked one side of the car up with one jack, and now my door doesn’t close or open correctly “ post.

 

Or, my favorite "why is my windshield cracked"

 

So how high can I safely Jack up the car with a single floor Jack? My wheel cribs are 9 inches tall so I would like to Jack up one corner high enough to get the 9 inch wheel crib under the wheel on that corner. And then do the same thing on the other side. Is that too high? I obviously don’t want to damage the car with flexing but I want to be able to work under the car.

 

Quick Jacks will lift the entire vehicle safely in one go up to 17 inches. It solves every problem if you just want to get underneath. You will need the extended length 5000# version. It’s only 5000 pounds capacity so don’t try to lift your truck with it. You will want the corvette lifting pucks. No chocks required. Great for wheels, oil changes etc. Also great for detailing since it only takes a couple minutes to raise the whole car with no effort.

Another, cheaper way is Safe Jacks. Use two Safe Jacks and two regular jack stands. You have to lift in stages since the Safe Jack won’t fit under the car until you shim a couple inches. Must use lifting pucks and chocks. Must shim to 2”.

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/...RoCTAQQAvD_BwE

https://safejacks.com/products/the-r...ck-single-unit

 

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Yep, all that will work BUT if you don't want to spend the money or deal with heavy powered lift devices, I have used a cheaper perfectly safe method of lifting my two C7s and for my C8 installing low dust brake pads, side skirts and splitter. Here are some pics:

A pair of Stanchions and Jack Stands after using Jack Pads and Hydraulic Jackat the GM Frame Locations works fine


Note made my Stations for a 2014 Z51 from a 12 foot long Pine board and some plywood, <$10. For fun calculated the "Safety Factor" and even with less than prefect construction was >15. MUCH higher if well made on a flat surface. Could use a 2X8 etc if want higher. Have 12 inch high commercial Stanchions I used when building my street rod BUT requires a two step lift not needed for most work. Don't want to make your own, can buy them from ramp folks (Note, not a ramp fan.) Also note warning on one pair of my Jack Stands- USE ONLY on One End of Vehicle at a Time. I would NEVER get under a car supported with 4 Jack Stands.

For my C8 Low Dust Brake Pad install used the Stanchions under the lower "A" arm.


Two worked fine on one side for my C8 Side Skirt install.


GM Official Lift Locations Plus my suggestion for using a Jack Stand under a lower "A" Arm if needed. Avoids the need to remove the aero panels to access the cross members to use Jack stands at those locations.

 

Just what I needed thank you

 

I'm sorry, but the homemade stations are NOT SAFE! If you look carefully at the pic on the right, you are supporting the car on 3/4" plywood and AIR. The 2x4's are on the perimeter of the stations and the weight of the car is in the middle, which has very little support!

I would recommend you add addition support (2x4's) immediately. The entire base of each station should be solid 2x4's. Is risking your life not worth an additional $10 of wood.

 

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Made the Safety Factor calculations as apposed to subjective opinion!

Had that comment before and, as I said I make the calculations for fun using bending loads, deviation from perfect 90 degree assembly etc. The Safety Factor IF you use the screws I recommend (used the holding force in the pine I made mine from) and IF all cuts are square etc is >200! Considering a side load from not perfectly square construction (I defined by an angle anyone could do better) was >30. the worse case was >15. All calculations are on the last 3 pages of the 18 page PDF I made on Jacking a C8 and C7: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf

Expect some of the Silent Majority who visit the Thread (already at ~1000 versus ~10 or so posters as many of us Vocal Minority post more than once! ) may find it interesting!

BTW, the bridge you go over every day probably has a Safety Factor of ~3! AND it has a lot or air under it!!

But as I say at the end, the engineers that designed the Titanic said it could never sink so build at your own risk! BUT will bet it's much "safer" that the plastic ones you can buy or even the 12 inch high commercial ones I used when building my Street Rod! That company showed their heavy dually truck rear on them for proof!

Here is one calculation pic showing the deflection in the plywood! BTW Plywood is very strong!


Spent Several Months Under the Street Rod I built and Stanchions are much safer that jack stands especially when using a lot or force like installing exhaust systems etc.

 

Hi Jerry - thanks for posting up the calculations. You have built yourself a strong box. My concern is that if any of the screw threads ever lose their integrity, or any sudden unknown failure happens which would cause the box to lose its shape - then the calcs don't work anymore. I have very similar wooden supports, and they're solid wood. Please consider upgrading yours! Would hate to hear of an injury.

 

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Appreciate your concern BUT it's unfounded! The deviation from the Safety Factor of >200 is from my calculations of the sides NOT being perpendicular. I was planning to use first principle calculations of beam deflection, strength of materials etc. BUT the Net is amazing! Lots of plug in the numbers etc. Found a source for screw hold force available on the net for various size and length screws in many types of structural wood. My choice is an overkill! Still a lot of wood bridges around! I have used those stanchions since 2013 when I built them. They are a way overkill.

SIDEBAR
If you are going to be concerned about safety factor worry about the 10 inch think steel containment vessels in a Nuclear power plant where the Safety Factor is far less! I managed and R&D Lab that developed the welding materials used to produce them when we "fabricated them in the US." Sole supplier to Combustion Engineering, B&W and CB&I the only 3 making them (all now closed.) Were supplying all the welding materials to Electric Boat and Newport News to weld Nuclear Subs (when we made one a month now one every few years!) Yep the large Nuclear containment vessels that were made for the recently bankrupt Nuclear plants in my state, SC were made in China since South Koreans who make the 75% nuclear power vessels etc used by France, were booked up! If you want to worry that is MUCH more a risk than my Stanchions.

Guarantee my wood ones are MUCH stronger then the plastic ones sold by Race Ramps! OR Race Ramps!

Yep can pay $195 for these plastic ones that will hold far less weight than my $10 stanchions.

 

I have race ramps for my vette. Much easier and safe. Drive up and down