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Just wanted to jump on here and post some pics of my C8 in the air on the 5000 quick jack system... I know there has been some discussion of using the quick jack without the extensions.. so hope this helps everyone Where the front sets on frame The rear on the jacking puck
So the front is not on the jacking puck? I think that is why the extensions are “required.” I wouldn’t lift my car anywhere but the designated lifting points. Of course it’s your car, your choice.
So the front is not on the jacking puck? I think that is why the extensions are “required.” I wouldn’t lift my car anywhere but the designated lifting points. Of course it’s your car, your choice.
You may want to reread the manual that comes with the lift. A few excerpts from it below. Don't believe the manufacturer would approve of how you have lifted the vehicle.
"6. Adjust the Lift Blocks in the Receiver Trays so that they are directly underneath the factory recommended Lifting Points for the Vehicle you are lifting."
"⚠ CAUTION Do not lift any load on the Frames alone; always use Lift Blocks,"
"Make sure the Vehicle is not overbalanced on either end. You must use the factory-recommended Lifting Points for the Vehicle."
The front point of contact is on the frame.. the car is as stable as if it were actually on the front puck but i understand the need for the extensions and the pucks are for the dealership that uses the four arm lift
Last edited by Rod2013C6; Feb 9, 2021 at 02:31 PM.
Reason: add info
I use a four post lift. To take off the wheels I raise the car, support the front or back with a cross beam then lower the lift enough to insert jack stands at the lifting points, then raise the lift and remove the supporting cross beam. I haven't tried this method yet for the C8. I need to get the car in the air and see where I can place the cross beam. I use a 6x6 for supporting the cross beam
So the front is not on the jacking puck? I think that is why the extensions are “required.” I wouldn’t lift my car anywhere but the designated lifting points. Of course it’s your car, your choice.
I won't let a dealer NOT use my jack pads in the GM oval slot even when his post lift has built in jack pads on the lift arms. Especially in the rear. Have jacked mine a number of times and you have to have your head on the ground and use a flashlight to see the oval slot! If using a jack pad you know they were found AND your lifting on the frame.
Brought this pic to the great Corvette tech who did my PDI for the C8. He also did my PDI and installed the Stage 2 Aero Option on my 2017 Grand Sport. He appreciated me bringing four jack pads when he did the Grand Sport. I mentioned it's critical IMO that jack pads be used for the C8. Especially in the rear where it's easy for a post lift that have built in pads on the arms to be Outside the frame! Said it could be the cause of the failure in the pic. He had not seen that pic and agreed!
I use a four post lift. To take off the wheels I raise the car, support the front or back with a cross beam then lower the lift enough to insert jack stands at the lifting points, then raise the lift and remove the supporting cross beam. I haven't tried this method yet for the C8. I need to get the car in the air and see where I can place the cross beam. I use a 6x6 for supporting the cross beam
Problem is 1st, have to remove the aero panels to see frame members. Unlike the C6 and C7 there is no "cross member" in the front.
Below is what GM says can be used to support the C8.
Should be able to find a suitable structural member if the GM spots are not convenient for what you need to do. May have to remove more "aero panels."
Front lifting point. Rear lifting point.
If I were buying a new Quickjack, I would purchase the extended length version. But I was not going to spend over $200 for heavy extensions too high to then slide under the car, then dealing with the added aggrevation of storage.
Others have also posted doing the above with no issues. The rubber spacer was slightly modified to fit tightly in the frame panel. Search the C8 section and you'll find the instructions pioneered by others @Phil1098 and used without any reservations. The red pucks on my car are for my two-post lift and dealer service.
The extension kit is 100% unnecessary, I have had mine as high as it will go and had my wife get in the car to apply brakes, etc., and it's as stable as it is on the ground. If that makes some nervous, then throw away the money, but it really isn't needed in the least.
Has anyone verified the measurements between the lift locations ? This is what I measured. I am in the process of having a 20 x20 garage built and I am going to add an in ground flush mount scissor lift. The issue is the the lift has a lifting platform that can range from 65" to 85" in length. At 65" I think the lifting puck will overhang the end of the lift so I will need to extend one end of the lift and I need to include that distance in the concrete recess so the lift is preset for lifting the car while it is still flush to the slab. I'm just looking for verification of the measurements. Also, anybody have any input/experience on the AMGO XL-9F LIFT?
I've done a lot of research and it appears to be a well made lift with a 5 yr warranty but there is very little on the internet containing reviews.
The OP is correct and the regular length 5000 works great, as long as the rear pad is on the rear Jack puck location and the front one is on the frame behind the front puck location. We have used ours this way many times and it is solid as a rock. Extension is not necessary. The car has a 60/40 rear weight bias. Therefore, the most important jack location is the rear one - i.e., making sure the COG falls between the two jacking locations such that there is no propensity for rotation. I am sure the Corvette engineers would have preferred a rear jack location even further back if there had been a way to do it. It is okay that the front placement occurs several inches to the rear of the front pick location, again as long as it is solidly on the frame rail and not a body panel or other component. The frame is more than strong enough at this location. Because of the rear weight bias, this arrangement actually better centers the weight between the two jacking locations. It is always great to follow the manual when possible (which is written to minimize liability for GM). But from a pure mechanical engineering and practicality standpoint, this arrangement works just fine.
Portability would be great. But........all those portable mickey mouse lifts pictured look scary.
I would not want to crawl under that. Looks flimsy.
Maybe OK for a motorcycle that you are working on the side of, not underneath.
There are so many potential fail points.
e.g. center pins of the scissor. And the tiny tubing legs look so flimsy.
There does not seem to be a PROPER way to safely pin this lift either from what I can determine, to keep the thing from dropping. i.e. there are no safety chains, bars, or cables spanning from front to back wheels on the scissor. Nor diagonally on the parallelogram lift, which by the way is how buildings of this design use diagonal tension bracing.
How much is your life worth?
You would not catch me dead under one of those.
Actually you may catch me dead. It looks like a giant rat trap ready to squash its victim. Especially the parallelogram version above.
That thing looks ridiculous.
I wonder where one can find statistics of #deaths/lift type on the internet?
Is it not MUCH SAFER to get a 4-post lift?
The amount of metal post in a 4-post lift is like 4x per corner.
And the load is vertical on the posts (as opposed to being diagonal on the scissor lift). Huge difference!
And the safety pins on a 4-post lift are massive.
Everyone with these toy lifts is trading off convenience for safety.
I am curious about what others think. Opinions?
Last edited by yelocarbuff; Mar 22, 2021 at 12:38 PM.
Lifting your C8
I won't let a dealer NOT use my jack pads in the GM oval slot even when his post lift has built in jack pads on the lift arms. Especially in the rear. Have jacked mine a number of times and you have to have your head on the ground and use a flashlight to see the oval slot! If using a jack pad you know they were found AND your lifting on the frame.
