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I thought that I had purchased HF jack stands that are under a recall. When I pulled them out to return them, I noticed that I had actually purchased Torin Jack Stands. After extensive searching, I discovered that I had purchased them on Amazon- surprise. More digging to see if they are the same and apparently not. In fact, https://www.autoguide.com/best-jack-stands rates them as the best jack stands - period. More amazing. I guess I won't be returning them. Has anyone had any feedback on them? Is HF the only brand recalled? Torin won't be open until Tuesday to answer my questions. They're the 6 ton variety. So I'd have to jack the C8 up quite a bit before they would fit under.
Question. If you have to use pucks, to position the jack, to lift the car to support it correctly, where do you put the jack stand so you could remove the jack?
Last edited by TKKRCats; May 29, 2021 at 08:30 AM.
Question. If you have to use pucks, to position the jack, to lift the car to support it correctly, where do you put the jack stand so you could remove the jack?
I haven't done it and may never, but you can lift the side with a jack and position the stand on the one without the jack,.... Again, I do not know if I will ever use these on my C8 - I just had them and was asking.
Question. If you have to use pucks, to position the jack, to lift the car to support it correctly, where do you put the jack stand so you could remove the jack?
I've done this several times. I put the jack stand on the frame near the pucks. Works perfect.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SGv95jWWzdoKtdvj7
Last edited by CitznFish; May 29, 2021 at 06:15 PM.
Lot’s of threads on Jack stands. I bought the Jack point Jack stands so I could both lift and support the car at the proper location, at the jacking pucks. They are kind of pricey, but very solid and they work great. I used them when lifting the front end to install the grill screens and again when removing the wheels to ceramic coat them.
Lot’s of threads on Jack stands. I bought the Jack point Jack stands so I could both lift and support the car at the proper location, at the jacking pucks. They are kind of pricey, but very solid and they work great. I used them when lifting the front end to install the grill screens and again when removing the wheels to ceramic coat them.
I had not seen the Jack Point jack stands before I read your post. They have a very innovative design that solves the problem of jack stand placement. They also look really stable. The only downside is the price. But when you have a unique product….
Last edited by Stingray Sam; May 30, 2021 at 03:13 AM.
I got the Jack Point stands a few months before my C8 arrived and I could not be happier. I hesitated initially due to price, but these are awesome. The owner is great too! I only bought 2 but that's all I think I will ever need.
I only bought 2 as well. I built some wheel cribs out of 2x4s (before the price for a 2x4 got ridiculous), so if I don’t need to remove the wheels, and I want the whole car lifted, I can put one end on the wheel cribs and the other end on the Jack point Jack stands. I guess I also had it on the stands the day I did the rocker extensions, here’s a picture:
I only bought 2 as well. I built some wheel cribs out of 2x4s (before the price for a 2x4 got ridiculous), so if I don’t need to remove the wheels, and I want the whole car lifted, I can put one end on the wheel cribs and the other end on the Jack point Jack stands. I guess I also had it on the stands the day I did the rocker extensions, here’s a picture:
How high do the Jack Points lift? I calculated your front tires are 9" off the ground (6 2x4's) but the rears look like they're not lifted nearly as much.
Just hit me the rears are 'free hanging' but how much clearance is under the tire?
Last edited by Broken Halo; May 31, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
I was just looking at potential Jacking pucks for the C8 and I noticed that there's 4 spots for the pucks but also 4 other spots where you can place jack stands. Check it out!
The wheel cribs are definitely higher than the Jack point stands height. I probably could have left off one course of 2x4s, made it 7.5” instead of 9”. The stands are 11.25” tall, plus the jacking puck height. I didn’t measure how much clearance there was from the tire to the ground, I’m guessing a couple of inches. It seemed about right when I was removing the wheels. I didn’t crawl under the car while it was on the stands. I was under the front end removing panels to install the grill screens, but the front was on the wheel cribs. It was nice to have plenty of room. Maybe 9” wheel cribs was the right call?
I was just looking at potential Jacking pucks for the C8 and I noticed that there's 4 spots for the pucks but also 4 other spots where you can place jack stands. Check it out!
If you are talking about those other round holes underneath, definitely don’t use them to support the car. If supported there, the car is unbalanced and can easily fall. There is a good YouTube video of a dealership using those wrong lift spots, they used a transmission stand under the car because it was trying to fall off the lift, they eventually figured it out and used the proper spot (oval holes). The only approved method is to use the oval hole jacking puck location to lift AND support the car. That is why these discussions keep coming up, there are only a few good solutions: Jack point Jack stands, Renn stands, U-Jack and QuickJack are all I could find.
If you are talking about those other round holes underneath, definitely don’t use them to support the car. If supported there, the car is unbalanced and can easily fall. There is a good YouTube video of a dealership using those wrong lift spots, they used a transmission stand under the car because it was trying to fall off the lift, they eventually figured it out and used the proper spot (oval holes). The only approved method is to use the oval hole jacking puck location to lift AND support the car. That is why these discussions keep coming up, there are only a few good solutions: Jack point Jack stands, Renn stands, U-Jack and QuickJack are all I could find.
If you are talking about those other round holes underneath, definitely don’t use them to support the car. If supported there, the car is unbalanced and can easily fall. There is a good YouTube video of a dealership using those wrong lift spots, they used a transmission stand under the car because it was trying to fall off the lift, they eventually figured it out and used the proper spot (oval holes). The only approved method is to use the oval hole jacking puck location to lift AND support the car. That is why these discussions keep coming up, there are only a few good solutions: Jack point Jack stands, Renn stands, U-Jack and QuickJack are all I could find.
Can only use the oval frame slots GM designates. In the rear any closer to the front risks the car falling by tilting, like a Teeter Totter!
FWIW, have had responses to my Brake Pad install PDF of what folks used to lift high enough to remove the calipers. There are the two pictured below along with my plan had I not installed without removing the calipers:
These by Jackpoint only lift to 12 inches and cost ~$300
These are less expensive and adjustable and can be set up to 16 inches. Would be my choice if wanting to use the approach of jacking and jack stand at the same GM oval slot.
This is my suggested method for those not wanting to spend a lot of money BUT takes a two step lift to be safe. The first using wheel stanchions (see mine below) to remove the Aero panel bolts and panels to expose the appropriate frame members to use jack stands. Then jack up further so you can remove the wheels (I would only do with 2 jacks) to the height desired and insert two jack stands. GM even defines some appropriate frame members BUT there are several IMO that would be safe.
These are two wood stanchions I made for my 2014 Z51. Have used for 8 years including C7 dry sump oil changes to get car level along with jack stands on one end. Shown here as used when I installed my side skirts. Mine are made from a 2X6 and plywood. They are ~ 6 3/4 inches high. Could make from a 2X8 if higher is desired.
Below are 12 inch high commercial stanchions. I still have but have not used for ~21 years from when I built my Street Rod (shown here.) It takes a two step jacking process to get that high. Not worth it unless as when I was building my Street Rod I was under the car for several months! My wood stanchions are made from a 12 foot long 2X6 and some 3/4 inch think plywood I had. They cost >$10, 21 years ago and have worked fine. You can buy 10" high stanchions from race ramps for ~$75 each but mine are not only cheaper they don't require a high lift. Had some question the safety so for fun, calculated the "Safety Factor." Even with inferior wood working skills it's higher than the bridge you go over every day! Have calculations in one of my PDFs!
16falcon :
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike CampbellView Post
I was just looking at potential Jacking pucks for the C8 and I noticed that there's 4 spots for the pucks but also 4 other spots where you can place jack stands. Check it out! If you are talking about those other round holes underneath, definitely don’t use them to support the car. If supported there, the car is unbalanced and can easily fall. There is a good YouTube video of a dealership using those wrong lift spots, they used a transmission stand under the car because it was trying to fall off the lift, they eventually figured it out and used the proper spot (oval holes). The only approved method is to use the oval hole jacking puck location to lift AND support the car. That is why these discussions keep coming up, there are only a few good solutions: Jack point Jack stands, Renn stands, U-Jack and QuickJack are all I could find.
No, I was talking about the lifting points on this diagram. The green circles are the Puck locations but the Yellow areas are where you could locate your jack stands or lifts. However, I do like those wooden tire lifts. One thing is here in Florida that when the threat of a hurricane looms our car insurance recommends us to put our car up on jack stands. Like if we get a 15 foot storm surge that'll help!
^^^
Funny, that was an "older" pic I made. Had a member say GM states those yellow frame members are for support NOT lift locations! Perhaps semantics but I changed the post to only use the word "Support Location" the word GM uses for those pics! In addition you'll see in the lower left I added what I will use IF only needing a modest lift BUT need the wheel off, a short jack stand. I recently bought a short jack stand (10 inch for ~$10) I'll use under a lower "A" arm. There are other suitable fame members sufficiently rearward that would no doubt be fine for jack stands BUT in all cases the aero panels have to be removed. I suggest wheel stanchions be used to safely remove the panel bolts- not just jacks.
I'm finally at a point now that crawling under has lost its appeal. It's always been a tradeoff between convenience of my time vs the extra minimal cost. Being that the dealership I purchased my Chevrolets through have lifetime free oil changes at N/C, there really isn't any justifiable reason to crawl under any more. If I had a garage Mahal with a lift, I might still do it, but crawling is on its way to history and pictures.
I'm finally at a point now that crawling under has lost its appeal. It's always been a tradeoff between convenience of my time vs the extra minimal cost. Being that the dealership I purchased my Chevrolets through have lifetime free oil changes at N/C, there really isn't any justifiable reason to crawl under any more. If I had a garage Mahal with a lift, I might still do it, but crawling is on its way to history and pictures.
Lifetime Free Oil Changes, damn, that's a great deal!! I wonder if they had the C8 in mind when they made that policy considering the oil itself is so expensive. Wish my dealer did that.
Jack Stands
Can only use the oval frame slots GM designates. In the rear any closer to the front risks the car falling by tilting, like a Teeter Totter!
Like if we get a 15 foot storm surge that'll help! 
