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I thought I saw a thread Re the Frunk Power Outlet not working. Checked fuse F50 and it is good. Anyone have this problem o some advise? For now I hooked up direct to the battery and charger working fine.
The F50 fuse is an unusual type and looks and tested good. It is a 15 amp fuse.
The frunk receptacle is fused by F39 (as pointed out by RKCRLR in another thread). I verified this by pulling the fuse, which disabled the outlet in the frunk. It is a 20 amp fuse. The fuse is mislabeled in both the owners manual, and the info on the back side of fuse block cover as rear auxialiary power outlet or rear apo.. It is not F50 which is labeled front apo or front auxialiary power outlet. Pulling F50 does not disable the frunk outlet. The current rating of F39 suggests that one could power a 20 amp accessory, or connect up to a 20 amp charger via the frunk receptacle.
I want to thank you for the help. You were right F39 is the fuse for the Frunk 12 volt outlet and miss labeled in the owners manual and on the fuse block as F50.
My problem turned out to a blown F39 fuse caused by a defective charger plug in adapter. All fine now and saved me a service visit.
The frunk receptacle is fused by F39 (as pointed out by RKCRLR in another thread). I verified this by pulling the fuse, which disabled the outlet in the frunk. It is a 20 amp fuse. The fuse is mislabeled in both the owners manual, and the info on the back side of fuse block cover as rear auxialiary power outlet or rear apo.. It is not F50 which is labeled front apo or front auxialiary power outlet. Pulling F50 does not disable the frunk outlet. The current rating of F39 suggests that one could power a 20 amp accessory, or connect up to a 20 amp charger via the frunk receptacle.
The frunk receptacle is fused by F39 (as pointed out by RKCRLR in another thread). I verified this by pulling the fuse, which disabled the outlet in the frunk. It is a 20 amp fuse. The fuse is mislabeled in both the owners manual, and the info on the back side of fuse block cover as rear auxialiary power outlet or rear apo.. It is not F50 which is labeled front apo or front auxialiary power outlet. Pulling F50 does not disable the frunk outlet. The current rating of F39 suggests that one could power a 20 amp accessory, or connect up to a 20 amp charger via the frunk receptacle.
F50, I believe, fuses the outlet under the dash. GM's tech writer seems to have missed that the charging outlet got moved from the rear to the front of the car in the C8. The dash socket was the "front" outlet in the C7 and is still labelled as "front" in the C8.
The frunk receptacle is fused by F39 (as pointed out by RKCRLR in another thread). I verified this by pulling the fuse, which disabled the outlet in the frunk. It is a 20 amp fuse. The fuse is mislabeled in both the owners manual, and the info on the back side of fuse block cover as rear auxialiary power outlet or rear apo.. It is not F50 which is labeled front apo or front auxialiary power outlet. Pulling F50 does not disable the frunk outlet. The current rating of F39 suggests that one could power a 20 amp accessory, or connect up to a 20 amp charger via the frunk receptacle.
I want to thank you for the help. You were right F39 is the fuse for the Frunk 12 volt outlet and miss labeled in the owners manual and on the fuse block as F50.
My problem turned out to a blown F39 fuse caused by a defective charger plug in adapter. All fine now and saved me a service visit.
And everyone said I was crazy for direct wiring my charger pigtail to the battery vs charging through the cigarette outlet!
If the fuse pops, it is a standard fuse on the NOCO pigtail and super easy to replace without having to open the cover of the fuse panel.
And everyone said I was crazy for direct wiring my charger pigtail to the battery vs charging through the cigarette outlet!
If the fuse pops, it is a standard fuse on the NOCO pigtail and super easy to replace without having to open the cover of the fuse panel.
Just curious as to how you ran the wires from the battery. Did you run the wire over or through the weatherstrip?
There is a large plastic cover over the battery area. It has a hole in it where the window washer fluid is filled. I just brought the wire up through that hole. It's long enough and has a rubber cap on the end when not in use.
There is a large plastic cover over the battery area. It has a hole in it where the window washer fluid is filled. I just brought the wire up through that hole. It's long enough and has a rubber cap on the end when not in use.
"And everyone said I was crazy for direct wiring my charger pigtail to the battery..." Good for you! However, do you have any idea how many never have had an issue with the plug-in option? Just sayin'... All the best.
On several of my vehicles, I needed to add a direct connection to the battery, for various reasons. One was to power an electric winch, one was to power a bait aerator, and one or more to provide an external connection for a charger. In each case, my concern was fusing of the length of wire coming from the positive terminal of the battery, if the wire gets crimped, chewed, or whatever. And, in each case, I put a fuse, or circuit breaker in the line, as close to the battery as possible. The connection for the external charger had a fuse holder about one inch of wire length from the battery. For the others, I ran a very short wire from the battery to a circuit breaker, so the long length of wire is protected. I also protect the wire from the battery to the breaker with wire loom. And, actually, in the case of the long runs, I used wire loom the entire way.
I want to thank you for the help. You were right F39 is the fuse for the Frunk 12 volt outlet and miss labeled in the owners manual and on the fuse block as F50.
My problem turned out to a blown F39 fuse caused by a defective charger plug in adapter. All fine now and saved me a service visit.
Since I am so ignorant when it comes to electricity, where do you recommend I find one just in case and is the fuse part of the receptacle itself or do I look for it in the fuse box. Thank you!
Since I am so ignorant when it comes to electricity, where do you recommend I find one just in case and is the fuse part of the receptacle itself or do I look for it in the fuse box. Thank you!
You need to hope you don't need one. The main fuse box is behind the glove box door and is a bitch to access. You have to pry the closer attachment off the post on the glove box door and then squeeze the sides of the glove box in to get the door to go by the stops. When I say squeeze, I'm talking like to the to the point your fingers are bleeding. It's not easy, you can push it over and get one side released, but then that just made the other side even farther away from being released.
You need to hope you don't need one. The main fuse box is behind the glove box door and is a bitch to access. You have to pry the closer attachment off the post on the glove box door and then squeeze the sides of the glove box in to get the door to go by the stops. When I say squeeze, I'm talking like to the to the point your fingers are bleeding. It's not easy, you can push it over and get one side released, but then that just made the other side even farther away from being released.
I know we all want to be delicate with our babies. Instead of my fingers I used a big 10 inch screw driver. I did the left side first. Was very delicate with her. Left no marks. She popped right out. Easy to get back in too. I just want to see where the fuse box was located.
Also, I do not know where you live. My local NAPA had the mini fuse so I pick up a variety pack.
I know we all want to be delicate with our babies. Instead of my fingers I used a big 10 inch screw driver. I did the left side first. Was very delicate with her. Left no marks. She popped right out. Easy to get back in too. I just want to see where the fuse box was located.
Also, I do not know where you live. My local NAPA had the mini fuse so I pick up a variety pack.
I'm not too concerned about being delicate with my car, I have 45 years of working on them, so I have also seen plenty of broken plastic POS parts too. I had my glove box out a couple times, I'm used to it, it just could be easier. I don't need any fuses, Inviktus is wondering about what fuses to buy.
I know we all want to be delicate with our babies. Instead of my fingers I used a big 10 inch screw driver. I did the left side first. Was very delicate with her. Left no marks. She popped right out. Easy to get back in too. I just want to see where the fuse box was located.
Also, I do not know where you live. My local NAPA had the mini fuse so I pick up a variety pack.
Point of information, the fuses are micro fuses, not mini. Bought a box assortment from Amazon for $7.99.
The easy way to remove damper is with needle nose plyers on the stud. The sides of glove box I did with a small pry bar, one side at a time carefully. GM apparently does not want the average Joe in there. Just thankful some smart people on the forum figured out the owners manual and fuse box had been mislabeled. Correct fuse is F39 not F50 for the front power supply.
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