Anyone notice when you’re in gear stopped at a light then plunk it into Neutral, the car relaxes a little bit. To me it feels like the clutch and pressure plate were engaged at a standstill, but that would stall the engine right? If it was a little engaged to simulate a torque converter, that would wear the clutch and generate heat, right?

So can anyone explain how the transmission could be applying pressure to the drivetrain at a standstill while in gear?

 

At a standstill in gear it slips the clutch, so it does cause a little extra wear and heat than going in neutral would. However I believe DCT’s are designed around that principle so it’s certainly within acceptable to stay in gear at a stop.

 

The Corvette team has said the clutches are designed to engage slightly at a standstill to allow the car to "creep," so it feels like a traditional slush box automatic. I guess they were afraid people who had never driven a manual transmission would think it was broken if it didn't start to roll when they let off the brake.

The multi-plate wet clutches should handle this without any problem. If I'm going to be sitting for a long time (stuck behind an accident, for example), I'll put it in neutral, but for normal things like traffic lights don't worry about it.

 

I played around with this a bit and here is what I've observed:

With your foot on the brake the clutch is very slightly engaged. Just enough to take the slack out of the drivetrain. Perhaps to prevent a clunk when you start accelerating.

If you let off the brake but don't give it gas, the car will accelerate and the RPMs will increase to about 1K RPM until the speed stabilizes at the creep speed. It appears that the computer is engaging the clutch and applying some throttle.

If you are concerned about clutch wear what you don't want to do is creep along with your foot on the brake.

 

Agree with RKCRLR. I've only about 1300 miles experience with this car, but I quickly adopted the practice using neutral at what I expect to be "long" stops." I usually have at least one hand on the wheel, so no big deal to hold one paddle.

I also discovered in my first construction delay that I don't like creeping. I am more comfortable holding still and waiting for more space in front of me, moving forward 10-20 ft in one smooth motion, and then going back into neutral.

Not saying this is the way to do it, but it just feels better to me, seems like it is easier on the car.

 

Tadge said the slight slipping when stopped is not a problem. It's designed to do that.

The 1st gear clutch has to slip when below 4 to 5 mph or like with a standard shift, engine would stall! The 1st gear clutch does not disengage unless you pull both paddles, an option.

I found in the 1st 500 to 800 miles it was a bit jerky as I crawled into my garage to control the driver's mirror tip to wood door molding to 1 to max 3 inches. It's easy to see and judge and assures the passenger mirror (harder to see) easily clears. Also felt that slighlty jerky movement when stopped, if I let off the brake slightly.

I drove in Manual Mode for the 1st month and would pull both paddles as I approached a stop. At ~1000 miles it was perfectly smooth as it is now when I crawl into the garage! I now drive in Z Mode versus Manual Mode and don't bother pulling both paddles or putting it in neutral. It's light pressure so why bother.

For folks who are used to an automatic with a torque converter (all my prior DD's in 62 years were standard shifts) there have been posts with concern with the somewhat jerky feeling in bumper to bumper traffic as you crawl forward. I suggested and practice myself now what I always did with a standard shift. Don't try to keep up with the car in front. Let it get a car or two length ahead than move forward.

BTW, that initial somewhat jerky motion is one of several reasons I had my DCT Filter changed in August 2021 when my OLM was at 5% life left with ~3500 miles. That requires a flush and thought good idea to get ride of that initial clutch plate wear. BTW a member posted at a recent bash in a lecture on maintenance they were told regardless of miles change the DCT filter at the 1st required engine oil change!

1st gear clutch (also controls, 3rd, 5th and 7th gears) is what slips. Perhaps why it's the outer, larger of the two. As noted there are multiple clutch plate surfaces that are slipping slightly when below 4 to 5 mph and when stopped. Tadge said it's not a problem. Nope, it doesn't drive at very slow speeds like a "slushbox" auto!

 

I have noticed that engine braking has been intrusive in all modes, so good to know that I should expect it to be less so after I get some miles on it. I have found myself double paddle declutching when approaching red lights.

I remember my 997 Porsche with PDK was annoying because it wouldn’t creep in my garage once I came to a full stop. So good design choice on the part of Corvette engineering!

Thanks for the information all! Good to know how stuff works.

 

I still have this at 1600. When coasting to a light the car engine breaks when shifting from 4-3 and then again from 3-2. 2-1 is pretty smooth. How much of this should I expect and will it smooth out after the first filter change and flush? I plan to do it at 2500 rather than wait to 7500.

 

I guess after driving manual transmission cars for the last 50 years, I don't find a bit of engine braking as it downshifts unusual or bothersome. This is, internally, a manual transmission. There's no torque converter to absorb and mask the rev changes on downshifts. Learn to appreciate the transmission doing it's job.

 

Yes, I figured it was normal but there is such a spectrum of comments from posts on various forums just not sure how much to expect.

 

^^^
Depends what Drive Mode you're in! Just like a standard shift when downshifting, it depends on the rpm you're at and what it will be in the lower gear when downshifting.

The 1st gear clutch is fully engaged down to 4 to 5 mph. If, as I often drive, in Z Mode Powertrain set to Track it downshifts at a higher rpm then even Sport. (Assume Touring would be even lower but frankly never use Touring so my shifting is Track or MY Mode I have set to Sport.)

The downshift shift rpm is also dependent on how hard you're braking. Good example is when I leave the 4 lane highway in front of the rural road I live on. It's often very busy, especially this time of year with folks leaving Myrtle Beach. Traffic is going ~70 mph on the 60 mph highway. Our twisty rural road has a speed limit of 25 mph. So cars, RVs etc don't have to brake hard for me I use the brakes very aggressively before I turn. It shifts from typically 5th in Z Mode, to 4th and 3rd at high rpm in the blink of an eye, while rev matching! Lots of engine braking! Great sound. If in My Mode it goes from typically 7th and shifts to a lower gear or gears at a lower rpm and although it rev matches feel less engine braking.

 

Yes, I have noticed a different feel in Z mode, shift set to track.

 

Yep until the C8 every DD I had for 62 years was a standard shift! Very good at heal toe when pedals are properly spaced as on my 6 Vettes. But even downshifted my S-10 truck on slow speed turns in town. A lot tougher to modulate the throttle and get a perfect rev match when the lower gear will be at ~2500 rpm not near redline where smashing the throttle is not difficult to learn. Especially with the S-10 and poorly spaced pedals.

SIDEBAR
On lower rpm casual downshifts don't feel much engine braking as when at higher rpm. I have found Z Mode set to Track (I have Ride set to Sport, good enough around NE SC.) It drives about like I was shifting my two C7, M7s. Although a DD I drive mostly in our rural area and very seldom use the Interstate. With the C7's did not need 7th gear and frankly never found a need for 6th. I drove through 5th gear.

With the C8, Z Mode set to Track typically does not go past 5th gear (note both 4 and 5th are actually overdrive ratios!) It won't go into 6th until about 72 mph. If behind someone going 55 to 60 I will pull the upshift paddle and go to 7th. I find no need to even downshift for turns. Apply the brakes aggressively and it downshifts at higher rpm's about as I would the two C7s! I also use My Mode I have set to Sport.

 

I got stuck in traffic and was stopped on a flat section of the road. I pulled the paddles to go into Neutral and after some time... I thinking 10 min.. the car went back into gear, even though I had both paddles pulled? Since I was in a flat road, my foot was off the brake, so the car began to roll forward. I had to jump on the brakes to stop the car. I was close to ramming the car in front of me.

I don't really know how long it was, but has anyone else had the paddles ..time out on ya?

 

I haven't had that happen. But I don't understand the hesitancy to keep your foot on the brake. It seems more comfortable than holding the paddles back. If you are concerned about wear on the clutch plates (which is insignificant when idling stopped with your foot on the brake) why not put the DCT in neutral or park?

 

If I want to keep the car in neutral for an extended period of time, I push the N button (or maybe even P if a really long time). That will never time out.

 

I’ve only been driving standard transmission cars for 41 years but in that time I’ve learned to appreciate street transportation that is smooth and comfortable for myself and my passengers. If engine braking in tour mode continues to disallow that then I would be disappointed.

 

After about 2-3 min it will go back into D with both paddles pulled. Something you need to watch out for, for sure.