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Great job!
I'm still going to mock install the aftermarket solution (when I get a chance - swamped with 'life' right now) since many don't want to remove bumper cover.
I noticed the left bracket is identical to the right bracket (they got rid of the bracket with the integral key lock mount).
Wonder if that's available as a separate part? Although your solution with a standalone plate is fine, if they have a factory bracket, that would be 100% OEM
That bracket does not have removable hardware. Not saying it can’t be done though
Great job!
I'm still going to mock install the aftermarket solution (when I get a chance - swamped with 'life' right now) since many don't want to remove bumper cover.
I noticed the left bracket is identical to the right bracket (they got rid of the bracket with the integral key lock mount).
Wonder if that's available as a separate part? Although your solution with a standalone plate is fine, if they have a factory bracket, that would be 100% OEM
Just a heads up… , I had to unbolt the locking mechanism bracket in order to get the retaining tab on the cable into the little hole on the latch. This also requires you to gain access to the outside of the trunk by removing the bumper cover. I tried for about 15 minutes before I gave up,
On the frunk if you unplug the harness to the locking mechanism then close the hood and drive off. Will the car still throw a light for that and limit the speed of the car? Like to believe there is no harm from this particular device being unplugged. Which can't be said for other electronics on this car. Obviously you'll be able to reopen through the mechanical latch in the floor afterwards.
Last edited by NoMatter; Aug 29, 2022 at 06:44 PM.
I still think this is a viable option versus removing panels, installing backplates etc ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I agree! Since the probability of needing is low, heck of a lot easier to run a thin braded stainless wire from the Kiddy Pull, push under the weather seal on the right-side fender and lay a ~6-inch length along the molding and cover with a small piece of tap. Easy to grab IF ever needed.
On the frunk if you unplug the harness to the locking mechanism then close the hood and drive off. Will the car still throw a light for that and limit the speed of the car? Like to believe there is no harm from this particular device being unplugged. Which can't be said for other electronics on this car. Obviously you'll be able to reopen through the mechanical latch in the floor afterwards.
Well, today I did the second half of the retrofit today by removing/replacing the door cylinder assembly. The manual key in both my fobs now operates the door and the hatch just like all the 20-22’s. The door cylinder was a bit of a pain in the butt but it can be done in the garage with a little patience and about 4hrs of time.
If the car is dead, why are you worried about the trunk? There is nothing in there to deal with in a bricked car. The battery is in the frunk and you can open the door with the metal key. Why all the weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth over trunk access?
If the car is dead, why are you worried about the trunk? There is nothing in there to deal with in a bricked car. The battery is in the frunk and you can open the door with the metal key. Why all the weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth over trunk access?
It's not about having a dead battery because there is an alternative access to the frunk with a cable loop under the steering column. It's about the electronic trunk latch itself failing, which there have been a number of documented cases of. A fully-charged battery won't open a dead latch.
Some of the dead latch cases have been traced to water intrusion into the module that makes that latch function.
If the car is dead, why are you worried about the trunk? There is nothing in there to deal with in a bricked car. The battery is in the frunk and you can open the door with the metal key. Why all the weeping and wailing and gnashing of teeth over trunk access?
If the mechanical latch or the electromechanical solenoid fail (which has already been documented) you can’t access the trunk.
I'm bumping this thread because I believe I have found the part number for the now-deleted bracket. Looking through various part websites, it appears that 84715490 could be the part in question. It's listed as "convertible" but I don't see any difference in the coupe vs. convertible diagrams. The coupe diagrams I've found also don't have a part number listed for that particular bracket.
I'm bumping this thread because I believe I have found the part number for the now-deleted bracket. ........
If you look at some of the early Threads on this subject, it's not buying simple parts, drilling one hole to make what was in all earlier C8s.
Since I had a failure of my 2020 Truck release latch that I and the dealer tech used the mechanical key a number of times until he replaced the mechanism, it will be the 1st Mod on my E-Ray! Assuming it will not have the mechanical key release. Simple, cheap and would not have a 2023 etc without adding, "Just-In-Case." Member posted doing that with pics below and it worked! Doesn't take much force to pull on the Kiddy Handle.
1st attach a stainless fishing leader to the "Kiddy Safety Pull Handle" (there if your 5-year-old closes hatch on his 4-year-old brother who he convinced to go into the trunk! )
Then push the cut end under the hatch/body rubber water seal molding and make a loop on that end. Lay loop in the gap so it can be hooked and pulled out of the hatch to fender gap with a dental pick etc if needed!
A Corvette tech that participates in this forum has alluded there is a method to open the rear hatch/lid on the 2023 models when the mechanism fails without drilling a hole in the lid but he didn't say how. Perhaps it is because the method could be used to break into the trunk.
84715490 is the correct part number and it does fit the coupe. I recently installed the lock and bracket without too much trouble. It took me about a day to install.
84715490 is the correct part number and it does fit the coupe. I recently installed the lock and bracket without too much trouble. It took me about a day to install.
The bracket has three threaded studs. I bought three nuts (M6-1.00) and washers (6mm) to attach it to the body and lock cylinder. You will have to drill four holes for the studs and lock cylinder and those locations are marked on the body. The original bracket is attached to the body with pop rivets which have to be drilled out. I installed the new bracket and replaced the rivets with new ones.
Last edited by Missouri Vet; Mar 17, 2023 at 12:02 PM.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
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