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Not really, be careful but 10 inch is pretty high. Frankly even with my lower height stanchions I use two jacks alternating jacking each side. 10" is higher than needed. For far less $ you can make your own and although mine are ~6+ inches, 8 inches can be made for not much more.
BTW I have 12 inch high stanchions but a PIA to jack up that high unless, as I did when building my street rod where I was on my creeper for several months installing exhaust, fuel lines, wiring, etc etc. Never use for my 6 Vettes.
I used my 6+ inch stanchions to install my condenser mesh and my 5VM type splitter.
I use Jackpoint Jackstands which are 13 inches high which means in order to get the Jackpoint Jackstands underneath the car I have to jack it up 14” - 14.5”. Zero issues.
When I swapped out my brake pads I did it one side at a time. I lifted the side of the car using the rear shipping tiedown location (or whatever it is) forward of the official rear lifting point. This location is close to the center of gravity (as some have found out the hard way) so there was less than an inch difference between the height of the front and rear tires when lifted at this point. I only raised it enough to allow removal of the tires/wheels. This allowed me to support the car using jack stands at the official lifting points. The frame is just as thick in that location as it is at the official lifting points. I have home made jacking pads made from hockey pucks so I could use a bolt with a washer on the end to locate it in the hole in the frame so I didn't have to worry about it slipping off the frame.
If you have a 2LT or 3LT, realize you'll set-off the car alarm when it tilts to one side. Just have your key fob handy to shut it off.
If you do it right, per instructions, there's no requirement to have your FOB. Reason being... You need to disconnect the battery when doing a brake pad replacement. The car will electrically cycle the brakes from time to time. I'm guessing for proper brake operation testing and validation. If the calipers are off the rotors or the pads are out then the brake puck leaves the caliper and there's brake fluid everywhere. If your fingers happen to be in there, well...
I used 2 Katech jacking pucks with 2 floor jacks to raise the front of my C8 for the SA screen install, but you could easily do it with ramps too. You really don't need to get the car very high since you are only removing the left & right splash shields.
Bob Lebowski showed an interesting, inexpensive way he used to safely lift his C8 when changing his front brake pads and removing the calipers. He used a narrow base jack stand located at the GM oval lift hole. Removing the caliper requires a higher lift height than what I and some others did who changed pads with the calipers in place. All methods shown on my How Too PDF.
These are pics of what Bob did. Note he modified the tab on his jack pad to fit the round hole. No issue at all for the front with only 40% of the weight.
My inexpensive ($10) small jack stands (I bought to use under the lower ball joint) may work as well. This would also work for the front AND if careful may work for the rear by placing the narrow base jack stand as close as possible to the jack lift point. Then no need to modify the jack pad.
There are two other devices folks advised they used when changing brake pads I included in my How Too PDF. They both 1st use a hydraulic jack to lift the car then insert the jack stand portion. The jack is then removed. Names are given in pics you can google and see a video, which makes operation clear.
Jacking C8
