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What is your question? The jump start procedure starts on page 277 of your owner's manual. If you followed that procedure and the car still won't start could you be more specific with the symptoms? Cranks but won't fire? Won't crank? No dash lights? No lights of any kind anywhere?
What were the circumstances prior that allowed the battery to die? If it ‘should have’ started and didn’t, I’d be curious.
I had a BMW that wouldn’t start and it was a battery issue, no amount of juice would jump it since there was a short between cells. One morning it worked fine, that afternoon it was unjumpable. Happened twice in that car.
When a modern car needs a jump, I consider it out of the ordinary unless the batter is over 4 years old and/or been discharged to zero a few times. At this point I only trust optima batteries.
I hate jumping newer cars, electronics are finicky, if it’s in a garage, put a charger on it, if it’s out in the wild, in a safe spot, yank the battery and have it checked out. Your car is new enough, but you may hav gotten a bad battery from the factory and finally it died.
You have to disconnect the battery from the car for it to charge properly. The electronic chargers will not even start the process if the battery is connected to the car. Ask me how I know.
Today's batteries tend to short cells and with that most can't be jumped. There is no warning typically. You may stop for lunch after car running fine and then 30 min later, no start, may not even turn. When you lose a cell your voltage drops to under minimum voltage to operate most subsystems. I have seen a lot of these in past 10 years.
I remember seeing that picture and it is misleading. The instructions say to connect the cable to the remote jump starting negative post but I don't remember seeing one there (but perhaps there is). If not read carefully someone might think that the negative battery terminal is on your right when standing in front and jumping the car (which it isn't).
You have to disconnect the battery from the car for it to charge properly. The electronic chargers will not even start the process if the battery is connected to the car. Ask me how I know.
Should choose to leave the battery in the car do not CHARGE the dead battery by clipping directly onto the negative terminal. You should clip onto a frame element or beyond the current sensor.
The charge must go through the current sensor, otherwise the battery control / regulator will consider the battery is still too deeply discharged.
Not sure if you take the terminals off fully if it somehow relearns the state of charge. Might try removing the negative terminal for a while.
I remember seeing that picture and it is misleading. The instructions say to connect the cable to the remote jump starting negative post but I don't remember seeing one there (but perhaps there is). If not read carefully someone might think that the negative battery terminal is on your right when standing in front and jumping the car (which it isn't).
Yes, this picture is very misleading to someone that doesn't look at it correctly.
They could easily get the negative and positive reversed (mainly if they are color blind), there is a red cover on the positive side.
Still, it's a terrible picture.
Should choose to leave the battery in the car do not CHARGE the dead battery by clipping directly onto the negative terminal. You should clip onto a frame element or beyond the current sensor.
The charge must go through the current sensor, otherwise the battery control / regulator will consider the battery is still too deeply discharged.
Not sure if you take the terminals off fully if it somehow relearns the state of charge. Might try removing the negative terminal for a while.
AS the poster above said I had to disconnect my battery completely and put the charger on it overnight. You may be right IDK...... I take the safe route. Jumping a battery or anything else........ scares me. I know with the charger directly on the battery, nothing connected to the car..... either it charges overnight or its toast and I don't take a change frying anything.
The CTEK battery trickle charger that comes as an option is probably a prudent choice to use. CTEK has a reputation of having relatively sophisticated charge/trickle logic for lead acid batteries. With the sophisticated electronics of the C8, it'd probably be a good idea to stick with that factory recommended CTEK. BTW, I looked around to find a Delco battery for my C6. Local auto stores didn't sell the exact replacement C6 battery. I was surprised that the local Chevy dealer's parts department sold the exact model at a reasonable price, no exhorbitant markup.
Hmm. The 2021 manual says connect directly to the discharged battery + and - terminals. On my 2021 there is no obvious post, but there are a couple of bolts to which the negative clamp could be connected. Here are some photos of what that looks like if one wants to try to avoid a connection to the negative terminal of the battery. I took these a while back when someone raised this issue before.
And yes, the system will relearn the state of charge after the car has sat off for four hours or so.
