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Are the lug nuts one piece polished steel or are they steel covered with plastic? In trying to remove a wheel I found that none the lug nuts fit a 22 mm socket. The ends of the lug nuts looked like they had a ripple in them. It appeared that I could get the socket on them if I used a weighted object to help get the socket on.
They're metal, no plastic. Someone probably mushroomed it with too much impact gun. Slam a socket on with a hammer and consider the lug nut replaceable.
Once the nut is loose, wiggle the socket off then toss the nut into the trash. I had to do with with a handful on my Jeep due to an overzealous dealer tech.
***EDIT***
Based on your other posts, it sounds like you bought a used & modified C8, so please post a picture so we know what we're working with. Without that, it's anyone's guess.
Are the lug nuts one piece polished steel or are they steel covered with plastic? In trying to remove a wheel I found that none the lug nuts fit a 22 mm socket. The ends of the lug nuts looked like they had a ripple in them. It appeared that I could get the socket on them if I used a weighted object to help get the socket on.
Not sure what your issue is. Could be someone installed aftermarket lug nuts.
Here are some pics and comments on sockets and lug nuts:
For many years I have used a hard plastic inner socket that did not mar the lugs. Fit my C6 and C7. Checked for one 22 mm but could not find and frankly with 140 ft-lbs wonder if it you hold-up to that torques. So bought the 22 mm Titan that like other "no mar" sockets only has plastic on the outside that can help the wheel BUT not the lug! To some degree it does helt the lug as it is undercut at the shape hex edges. So far my lugs look new. Note I use a short 1 1/2" extension that gives enough fender clearance when using my torque wrench. They do sell one with a build-in extension but it is longer than needed. LUG NUTS For my black 2014 C7 wheels I wanted to use black lug nuts and McGard black locks. Found some interesting McGard black lugs with grooves that looked good, came only it sets of 4, which was find from my plan to use locks for the 5th. BUT although the thread and cone angle was what was needed they did not say for Corvettes. Called McGard. Tech said, those are for small overseas cars. They will fit BUT the internal depth may not be deep enough for a Corvette. The worse thing is a lug nut that just bottoms on the stud. You torque properly BUT all you did was tighten the lug nut to the top of the stud! In fact that is why some race series require open end lug nuts so the stud can be seen at tech inspection!
The original owner stated that they should be the OEM nuts as he never changed them. I have tried 12 point and six point standard sockets and a 6 point impact socket and none of them fit over the lug nut. Two of the standard sockets and the impact socket have the rounded corners. I have several persuaders to try and a 1200 ft-lb impact.
The original owner stated that they should be the OEM nuts as he never changed them. I have tried 12 point and six point standard sockets and a 6 point impact socket and none of them fit over the lug nut. Two of the standard sockets and the impact socket have the rounded corners. I have several persuaders to try and a 1200 ft-lb impact.
The original owner stated that they should be the OEM nuts as he never changed them. I have tried 12 point and six point standard sockets and a 6 point impact socket and none of them fit over the lug nut. Two of the standard sockets and the impact socket have the rounded corners. I have several persuaders to try and a 1200 ft-lb impact.
Shound never use an impact wrench on lug nuts! Sounds like someone did!
Perhaps the stock lug nuts have some kind of covers on them like these?
ColorLugs Vinyl Lug Nut Cover | Black | Flexible Fit Wheel Lug Nut Cap | Fits 21-23 mm | Pack of 25 | Includes Deluxe Extractor | Made in The USA https://a.co/d/dvq1GH9
From: SUFFIELD CT USA 2023 C8 CORVETTE UN-MODIFIED FINALIST
2023 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Kracka
Share pictures.
I believe post #2 explains this as I also have seen this and you explain that there is a visual flaw in the op.
Ooops, I meant to quote post 7. I don't belive the op understands what post 2 refers to ?
Those are definitely not the factory lugnuts. I'm betting the car, at one time, had aftermarket wheels on it and the included nuts were reused when the stock wheels went back on. A good wheel/tire shop can get those off, but I'd replace with a set of OEMs (which can easily be had from any dealership parts counter).
Those are definitely not the factory lugnuts. I'm betting the car, at one time, had aftermarket wheels on it and the included nuts were reused when the stock wheels went back on. A good wheel/tire shop can get those off, but I'd replace with a set of OEMs (which can easily be had from any dealership parts counter).
I agree with getting a shop who has the proper socket or whatever tool to remove. On my S-10 I bought Gorilla Locks and when I needed to remove one tire, with a flat, the puzzle key broke. I had not purchased a 2nd key. I tried pounding several sockets on with no luck. Was thinking of welding a large nut on the lug/lock (a method some have had to use!) Finally used my Craftsman quality 12 point socket and a 5 lb sledge and was lucky it held and I removed. Was able to order another key. Removed the other 3 locks and tossed.
For all my Vettes I only buy McGard now AND order a spare key as soon as I open the package and get the number!
Frankly with 20 damaged lug nuts (torqued to 140 ft-lbs or more if they used and air powered wrench) the probability of having one not hold with a pounded-on standard socket is not zero! A tire/wheel shop used to dealing with the issue will have a better chance and probably a hardened removal socket that fits a 22 mm lug nut - or whatever tool!
I have a Snap-On 23mm socket that I think I will try with my Dewalt 1200 ft-lbf impact tool. A local dealership mechanic told me it should work as that is what he would do. I'll do this after I get a set of lugs nut from the local Chevy dealership.
I got 18 of the lug nuts off with a 23mm deep well socket, 20" breaker bar with a 4' pipe cheater. Set my torque wrench at 160 ft-lbf and it "clicked" without moving the lug nut so I tried the cheater bar method. One of the two lug nuts I couldnt get off was because the outer, aluminum I believe, cover spun on the steel part. This nut and the other one were removed by a mechanic using a 22mm rounded-over socket.
^^^^^
Glad you didn't use the 1200 ft-lb impact wrench as thought that might just machine the lug round! Breaker bar would have been my choice as well.
BUT as I said with 20 lugs probably be one requiring a tool you don't have. Glad the mechanic did!
PS:Remined of what I had to do to remove the oil pan side drain plug on my new 2017 Grand Sport. My 2014 Z51 pan plugs were easy so crawled under the Grand Sport thinking it would be the same. Nope, the fined liquid to liquid oil cooler heat exchanger was deeper than the C7 Z51 and in the way. Could not get the 6 point socket planned with wrench to fit. Tried open end, 12 point box wrench and even had a flare nut wrench the right size. All rounding the edges of the plug hex nut.
Where there is a will there is a way! Used and old pipe wrench on the sides of the 6 point socket. Note the handle is bent from past use on a pipe joint. I needed a pipe extension here as well to get enough force to remove! Funny it had dark brown "stuff" on the threads. But got that 1st oil changed at 500 miles done and after "the horse was out of the barn" bought a somewhat unusual 6 sided box wrench! Saw a Snap-On wrench for $35 but ordered on Amazon for ~$15! In my How To change C7 oil PDF recommend folks buy that BEFORE they start! Never know.
Lug Nuts
