More to go wrong with taking things apart from the trunk than just going in from the side. Anyone that goes under a car without a jackstand as protection is taking an unnecessary risk. For those that have the DIY gene, it's no more risky than getting under a car to change the oil.

 

No comment on safety, either way. But it can be done from the bottom easily with a nipple and a valve - which I think has been discussed a few times. And then it is really, really easy. There is also sold a device for doing it, but its expensive and basically the same tool. If were doing it, I would use that nipple method. First I would top it off through the normal fill opening in the normal way - so I know the starting point. Then, in goes the nipple with a valve instead of the OEM plug. Pump in additional fluid - up to 2 liters. Then shut off the valve. Leave the nipple and valve in place.

 

Didn't they make a movie on this? "Its not that complicated"..Unless JerryU and Andy kill us with 14 pages and diagrams that memorize us into submission.. LOL LOL

 

I wonder how many arm chair quarterbacks here have never done or will do many of these DIY projects but just want to be critical (not you Jerryu and Andy I love you bump) ???

 

Arm chair quarterbacks? There are a dozen or so YouTube videos that clearly show how it’s done and give the viewer all the information they need. I provided two examples. It doesn’t take a genius to understand the process without actually doing it in this case filling the DCT with oil.

And challenging someone else is expressing another point of view. If you call that being critical then so be it.

 

Challenging and knowing , Id pick knowing everyday... Your correct you dont need to be a genius, just willing to learn.. Thanks and good luck with your car!

 

Yep that video by Chuck is very good showing the GM approved procedure. In addition to the Dodson device (not cheap,) sold to add the two quarts for tracking I made the Pic below in 2020 about the same time as I made Pic with a SWAG of a 13-degree tilt method. I stopped suggesting tilting when folks were tilting with one Jack and no Jack Stands. BTW there is also a Video by Chuck saying no way he would tilt a car in their shop. For insurance reasons IMO most Chevy dealers would not and would follow the GM `procedure.

For those that Track, with prior to the new case, late 2032/ all 2024 this would work with the extra hole in the Shear Plate/Aero Panel. After installing the valve with hose nipple, pass the hose down from the engine compartment. Note, would not trust the valve to not open when finished so suggest replacing the hose barb with a plug.

 

I've been running the 2 qt track fill for 22k miles/3 years and am quite pleased with how this DCT is performing. Adding it through the standard fill plug through the rear driver's side wheel well is safe & easy with the driver's side jacked up (use jackstands for safety). Tremec themselves recommend this fill level for track use, so it's not just some random GM fix (they also state there is no need to drain the additional 2 qts afterward for street use).

The DCT sump pickup was redesigned for MY2024 (implemented late-MY23 cycle) to avoid this being necessary, much how GM switched over to 0W-40 engine oil late in the C7 cycle to avoid needing to switch oils between street & track use, as was the original recommendation per the owner's manual. Progress/improvement is a good thing.

 

^^^^
Yep, was surprised that 2024 case modification was not done sooner. My C6 Z51 was not a dry sump but used GM's patented engine oil pan with side sumps. Has been done in drag racing for years with high "g" launch race cars to keep oil under the oil pick-up.

 

I'll try to keep this under 14 pages. No, I have not, and do not currently plan to service my C8 - but I have considerable experience with DIY on other cars I have. And I have, on more then one occasion, jacked a car way up on side for various reasons. I recently did that with my 66 Bonneville so I could inspect what turned out to be missing alignment shims from the upper control arm. The alignment was done at a shop, in 2019, but this year while driving, the shims fell out - leaving a about a 1/2 in gap where the two bolts that hold the upper control arm shaft to the frame. Know what happens then? The front right wheel flaps left and right. Whap-whap-whap and so on. But I gotta say, I was loathe to get under the car while it was jacked up that way. I have the stuff necessary to make safe - and confidence that I could do it. But its not something I want to recommend. I like the the other method I described for overfilling the transmission with the nipple and valve.

Jacking up a Model A way up on one side to put pressure on the opposite wheel, then slightly loosening the wheel nut and whacking it with a big hammer is another example I have used. It did not work. Had to by he KRWilson wheel puller.

Heck, I have cars that I can get under without a lift - and I worry about what would happen in the unlikely event that a tire goes flat. And, when using jack stands what if there is an earthquake. I have experienced two on the East coast that I think might have shaken a car off the stands - one in Philadelphia years ago, and one in Maryland that was a while back too.

 

Andy thanks but you said this many times. You and who ever dont have to do any of the stuff you mention. Enjoy your car and thanks for your concern!..

 

We do it because we can - Where'd I hear that before?

 

Andy I am remined of the two fellows at the local "Junk Yard" as I was rummaging. Back 20 years ago it was an unsafe place. They had borrowed the forklift, had a car raised and were removing the transmission. Both under the car going to handle the weight as it came down. Car teetering on the forks as the weight shifted. I got out of there quickly as did not want to make a police report IF the car fell on them. Yard now totally deferent. New owners, can't go back without signing wavers, no one under 18 etc. They mostly sell parts they removed at 1/2 the price of a new one.

Did a lot of DIY in my day. With Pop he insisted after a car frame (all had frames in the day) was on Jack Stands or Concrete (NOT Cinder) blocks I had to hit it hard with my shoulder. As he would say: "Best if it falls, you're not under."

I do follow what one of my pair of Jack Stands warns, only under one end. Used wheel stanchions on the other.


Spent over a month under my street rod when I was building. Fabricated the exhaust, wiring, running fuel lines, trans cooler line etc etc. Used 12-inch-high wheel stanchions. Was easy with a creeper and safe.

 

Bees, snakes, thunderstorms, and maybe some larger mammals were not my friends while rummaging junk yards.

 

And why I prefer Jackpoint Jackstands when working on mine. Depending on what needs to be done I’ll use my QuickJack.

Yes, I work on my cars even my C8.


Note: Individual Jackpoint stands have been physically tested to loads up to 15,000 pounds without damage and exceed these standard and far exceed ANSI, PALD and European CE 4000 pound (per stand)standards.

 

Now back when I was building my '41 coupe in ~1958/59 there were huge Junk Yards near what is now Giant Football Stadium (or whatever they changed the name to) called the Meadowlands (read swampy!) They piled the cars 3 high. Rats and Junkyard Dogs. The dogs were caged in the day. Looked mean! Rats were out at night and some would plink with 22's.

Remember I needed another right-hand exhaust manifold from a '50 Olds to clear the steering box on the left side. Could not get the bolts off with a wrench. Paid a fellow who worked for the yard with an oxyacetylene torch cutting up cars, a few bucks to cut off the bolts. Remember telling him not to gouge the manifold. He said kid this won't hurt cast iron. Didn't! My first metallurgy lesson!

 

I used a simple safe method Big Lebowski did when he was removing the calipers from his C8 to change to low dust pads. Here are some pics of what he did, and I put in my How To Charge Brake Pads PDF, along with your Pic with Jackpoint.



I bought a small jack stand with small base I could put close to jack with Jack Pad in oval lift slot.


Used when I had to bring my 13-inch rear wheel to Discount Tire to get new $650 one FREE TO ME since I bought their Tire Insurnace when I got my E-Ray. A few months ago removed the front wheel/tire to bring to have a nail plug/patched. Thought at the time, will be no fun getting the 13" rear wheelrear wheel off and on. Have to be very careful with CCB brakes as easy to damage a rotor, which is a ~$2000 replacement. Plus lifting those big tires with my legs under would be no fun!


So after replacing the front wheel built what I call a "Tire Slide." Had some scrape 1/4-inch plywood 10" wide. Cut two pieces 8" wide X 16" long and put together to make 16" square. Bought 4 casters with ball bearing swivel having a load capacity of 100lbs from Amazon for ~$10. How they can be made in China, shipped to the US and then shipped free to me in 2 days is hard to understand!


Installed the foam pad protectors that come with the E-Ray to protect the CCB Rotors. Installed my three 8" long lug extenders and jacked the car just high enough to clear the 1.65-inch Tire Slide + 1/4 inch. Pulled the tire onto the "Tire Slide". Went on just as easy, no legs or lifting!