When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I understand where I need to place the jacks (with pucks) to raise the front and rear. Where do I then place jack stands on both ends so I can safely remove the jacks and not damage anything?
I understand where I need to place the jacks (with pucks) to raise the front and rear. Where do I then place jack stands on both ends so I can safely remove the jacks and not damage anything?
That's the issue. There isn't anywhere. That is one of the reasons I went with a quick jack.
I understand where I need to place the jacks (with pucks) to raise the front and rear. Where do I then place jack stands on both ends so I can safely remove the jacks and not damage anything?
I use the locations in the frame with the round holes (the ones you aren't supposed to use when using a lift) so I can place the jack stands in the official lifting locations.
You'll never have that much weight on a single jack when using it under a Corvette. For most work on the car, I'm using 2 jacks and then of course jackstands if I'm going underneath it. They lift plenty high enough for oil changes, DCT filter/fluid changes, swaybar swaps, brake jobs, tire rotations, etc. These ones do not go high enough for anything Jeep-related though.
I've had 3 of these jacks throughout the years (~15?); the first one eventually wore out on me and would no longer lift a car. I use mine a fair amount though, quite a bit more often than average.
Originally Posted by HRDTOPC54FUN
Another vote for the 1.5 ton Harbor Freight aluminum. Lightweight, easy to move around, more than adequate capacity.
Been happy with my 2 Harbor Freight jacks. Neither are currently available, but one is a long reach, the other a short reach aluminum that's light in weight and easy to move around. All depends on your needs.
I have 4 jacks, all Harbor Freight. 1st one bought in 2000 when I built my street rod. Latest, a long reach about 4 years ago. It was only ~$100 at the time. My small Race Jack only ~$50. Boy prices have increased. Only thing to watch out for is all jacks MUST move it as you lift to keep the Jack Saddle directly under the C8 Frame Lift pad. Small Jacks with short Jack Arms must move in more. My 3 recent jacks fit under the 2-inch-high jack pads i have. The 1st (large orange below) only clears my 1" high jack pads.
Keep in mine never get under a car with just jacks. Only use jack stands (and those only one end at a time) or wheel stanchions. i have both. These stanchions are 12 inches high, takes a 2-step jacking process. Don't use those on Vettes. PIA no need.
Use these I made these two from a 12 foot board and some plywood I had for the top for ~$10. Can use a 2X8 12 foot long for the C8. Heck even wood has gotten very expensive! Changing oil on my prior C7 Grand Sport.
Low profile is important. Aluminum is good, if you ever pack up and go to the track, some of the steel jacks are really heavy.
Funny thing about racing jacks. They say 2 pumps to full height. If you watch the NASCAR guys, the jack man is always the biggest guy on the team.
He slides the jack under the car and drops all his weight on the handle. Sometimes their feet come off the ground. The car goes up fast.
Fast forward to me in a tight garage, with a racing jack. It takes a lot of weight on the jack to raise the car.
From: A sympathetic, well-meaning, elderly man with a poor memory
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10
Originally Posted by C5racecar
Low profile is important. Aluminum is good, if you ever pack up and go to the track, some of the steel jacks are really heavy.
Funny thing about racing jacks. They say 2 pumps to full height. If you watch the NASCAR guys, the jack man is always the biggest guy on the team.
He slides the jack under the car and drops all his weight on the handle. Sometimes their feet come off the ground. The car goes up fast.
Fast forward to me in a tight garage, with a racing jack. It takes a lot of weight on the jack to raise the car.
Those aren't stock racing jacks...
I have racing jacks and standard jacks. The racing jacks are much lighter, but don't have any huge jacking advantage/disadvantage.
I'm rethinking jack stands on the C8. Have plenty of them but replacing the jack looks problematic. Don't want to commit to a QJ but options that leave the wheels accessible are limited.
I have racing jacks and standard jacks. The racing jacks are much lighter, but don't have any huge jacking advantage/disadvantage.
I'm rethinking jack stands on the C8. Have plenty of them but replacing the jack looks problematic. Don't want to commit to a QJ but options that leave the wheels accessible are limited.
Have 4 jacks and many pairs of Jack Stands as well. Bought this small base one so I could use as Big Lebowski did to lift high when removing the front calipers to change pads.
Narrow Base right from Walmart, ~$10.
What Big Lebowski did to lift front high to remove brake calipers.
From: A sympathetic, well-meaning, elderly man with a poor memory
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10
Originally Posted by JerryU
Have 4 jacks and many pairs of Jack Stands as well. Bought this small base one so I could use as Big Lebowski did to lift high when removing the front calipers to change pads.
Narrow Base right from Walmart, ~$10.
What Big Lebowski did to lift front high to remove brake calipers.
This should also work if jack carefully.
Interesting. Don't think I've heard this previously. The pads hang below the body panel, yes? My good jackstands are aluminum a-frames. I was noodling through how I might use them, but having a second lift point would be great. Is this present on both front and rear?
Interesting. Don't think I've heard this previously. The pads hang below the body panel, yes? My good jack stands are aluminum a-frames. I was noodling through how I might use them, but having a second lift point would be great. Is this present on both front and rear?
Big Lebaowski posted a year or so ago. I asked if I could use his pic in my How To change brake pads PDF and he said sure. He and others where I used their info ate sited in the pic/long caption PDF.
The front is not an issue. The rear also has those round hole but there is a balance issue. I would use the jack where GM specifies and the jack stand where the round hole is located. If just changing brakes no need to jack higher than to remove the wheel. But on either end I would use two jacks and as I did for my C7s keep sight tension on the jacks after they are holding the full load.
Yep there are round holes in the back but be careful. Not lifting at the GM defined oval lift slots the car could tip! I'd use two jacks with pads on the GM oval lift slots and jack stands on the round holes. As I did with my C7's even though I used jack stands (in that case under a cross member) I always keep the Jacks in place with slight tension. Not I also followed the advise on pair of jack stands (see below) and only used on one end of the car. I use wheel stands on the other. I follow the advise of the pair of jack stands I have and NEVER get under the car with jack stands on both ends. Worked with my Dad from when I was ~8 doing brake jobs, replacing mufflers etc. He had a firm rule that after we put the car on solid supports on the frame (all cars had frames in the 1950) I had to hit the car hard with my shoulder. As he would say, it it's going to fall best it fall now not with you underneath! Using that rule no way would I hit the car hard on 4 jack stands. Two, two jacks with slight tension and the other end on wheel stands is the only way I'd get under the car!
Changing oil on my prior C7 Grand Sport.
