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I can't read the warning label but I bet is says to only support one end of the car at a time when using the jack stands.
pretty worthless then. There are many times you need to jackstand one end or the whole car. Restorers and race teams do it all the time, as I have many times. Jackstands are designed to do that, and if not, are probably not a great choice.
pretty worthless then. There are many times you need to jackstand one end or the whole car. Restorers and race teams do it all the time, as I have many times. Jackstands are designed to do that, and if not, are probably not a great choice.
I believe the warning to only support one end of the car at a time is standard on all jack stands currently sold (although I haven't purchased a set lately so maybe not). It isn't necessarily the design of a particular jack stand is the issue, a jack stand is inherently less stable than tires when vehicle weight is being shifted. A vehicle with two chocked tires on the ground will be more resistant to being knocked off the stands than a car on 4 jack stands. Can you get away with it? Most likely, I've done it. But I've also removed tires when a car was only supported by a jack (as do a lot of shops when they are just changing tires). It is just the degree of safety you are comfortable with.
Be very careful with the jacket stand on the left. I have these and if you are standing all 4 wheels these can tip when lifting other wheels. You must watch them and recheck as lifting next wheel. I moved to a Quickjack and now rarely jack stand all 4 wheels.
See my post #14! Warning on one of my pairs of jacks stands states, "ONLY use on one end of car at a time!" I follow that advice an use what my Dad said when I was ~10 an we worked on Cars. After putting car on jack stands and usually one end on wheel stanchions NOT both ends on jack stands, had to hit it hard with my shoulder. As he said IF it's going to fall best when you hit it NOT when you are under (or some such words.)
That is what when I spent a month+ on a creeper when building my Street Rod I used 4-wheel stanchions. In that case 12 inches high. Allow fabricating exhaust, installing brake and fuel lines, etc etc with no concern!
I can see the use case for these to make the jack safer when changing a tire or brakes or something when you don't need to physically get underneath the car. However, I still wouldn't get underneath a car with just this. The floor jack still has wheels on it and could potentially move on you. I'm not risking my life unless I know for sure it's a solid base.
sandmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hintz
Well, you definitely lose the use of your jack, so I don't think this is a good comparison to something like a Rennstand (where you re-gain the use of your jack after the stand is set up).
When a jack is supporting weight, that weight is concentrated in the area surrounding where the axles pass through the jack frame... this redistributes a lot of that weight to the center of the front axle, which was not designed with that force in mind. Will it bend/break? Probably the former long before the latter, but that also depends upon jack design (some have way wider front wheels, putting proportionately more bending stress on the longer axle) and jack quality. Should the axle snap (for whatever reason), that thing will slide right out of there like a bullet, and with no pressure on the ram (as they show in the video) the entire thing is coming down.
The engineer in me sure as hell wouldn't trust it as a safety mechanism with my body under the car, but I could see it as a useful "Don't let my car collapse to the ground if the jack fails while changing my tire" device (which has happened, but the rim I had placed under the
rotor saved the car). I wouldn't let out all pressure on the ram and assume the device will handle all of the pressure, either, but that's just me.
I agree with the engineer in me and also with the cost of needing 4 jacks or even 2 jacks and somebody bumps into and crash! I prefer the wooden stanchions I made from Jerry U's post and unless I had to work on the brakes or wheels I'd go to a friend who has a Quick Lift.
I watched the entire thing originally. I'm still not trusting anything on wheels to hold a heavy vehicle above me. Especially when there are other, more stable options available.
That's what I do... I trimmed the tabs on an extra set of poly pucks and use two jacks to lift at the inner slots then put flat top ESCO short stands at the main jack points.
I would never use a traditional saddle stand top on these cars.
These are the stands I use, either on the floor or in conjunction with my 4 post lift and sliding scissor jack.
I received two of them early this week and used them to change out the OEM Z51 dust making pads to Powers Stop Extremes. The Jack Rods worked perfectly. All of the weight was off of the hydraulics and on just the jack itself. 100% solid and sturdy. Will be using them next to lift the front end to install the radiator guards. Great invention and highly recommend them.
I just bought my car last Friday and am pretty annoyed that it seems like you can't use jack stands on it. I have 4 3-ton jack stands and from my understanding, they are basically useless for my new car. So now I have to spend $180 on another jack and $210 on two of those jack stabilizing tools? Damn, might have to take out another loan just to work on this car? Yeah no not doing that.
I found one YouTube video where a guy puts a jack stand under the control arm where it links to the car. Here's a screenshot. I suppose this is what I'll be doing when I do something that doesn't let me rest the rear wheels on ramps. I'll keep reading around the forum and see if anyone has found another solution but based on OP's post, it doesn't sound like you were meant to use jack stands with this car. Of course, you were meant to take it to the stealership who has a lift so you can pay them $2000 to do your brakes instead.
I just bought my car last Friday and am pretty annoyed that it seems like you can't use jack stands on it. I have 4 3-ton jack stands and from my understanding, they are basically useless for my new car. So now I have to spend $180 on another jack and $210 on two of those jack stabilizing tools? Damn, might have to take out another loan just to work on this car? Yeah no not doing that.
I found one YouTube video where a guy puts a jack stand under the control arm where it links to the car. Here's a screenshot. I suppose this is what I'll be doing when I do something that doesn't let me rest the rear wheels on ramps. I'll keep reading around the forum and see if anyone has found another solution but based on OP's post, it doesn't sound like you were meant to use jack stands with this car. Of course, you were meant to take it to the stealership who has a lift so you can pay them $2000 to do your brakes instead.
I use the transport tie down locations (round holes) to lift and place the jack stands in the official lifting locations. It has been reported that this is the way Spring Mountain does it.
The first I posted in 2020 where I did use a small jack stand under the ball joint on the "A" frame.
Big Lebowski should his method of jacking so he could get high enough to remove the front brake caliper when changing to low dust pads. IMO can even reverse this jack/stand for the rear BUT must be a narrow base on stand. As i did on my two C7s where I could jack on the cross member I keep slight tension on my Jack(s) as a safety.
I have a small jack stand that can be placed close to the oval lift slot with a jack pad.
I have several hydraulic jacks and even on my C7's keep slight tension on the jacks where jack stands were used.
I prefer the wooden stanchions I made from Jerry U's post and unless I had to work on the brakes or wheels I'd go to a friend who has a Quick Lift.
