Car Lifted Incorrectly?
Took my car in to Christian Brothers for its 1st oil change. I had previously called ahead and confirmed that they were aware of the lifting points and had the jacking pucks required for the lift. They assured me that they would be using their 4 post lift and all of the weight would be on the tires, which is how they handle other C8s and Teslas. I confirmed this on-site also.
About 10 minutes into the job, they asked me how to raise the convertible roof to get access to the engine compartment. To my surprise, my car had been raised in a different lift using the shipping strap locations (circle, not oval) and no pucks.
I had them pull the car down immediately and politely talked to them. They were nice about it, but couldn’t get past the ignorance of what they were doing was incorrect.
No damage upon inspection, but you can clearly see the pads they used on their lift are larger than the 64 mm (2.5 in) diameter recommended in the manual.
This could have ended differently, just don’t want them to end up with another “red C8” situation.
Back to the local Chevy dealership for service. Had avoided them due to a previous issue (cracked oil filter lid on suburban leaked oil all over garage floor), but hopefully they are familiar with the recommended lift points.
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Thanks for sharing! 👍👍
Last edited by Maxie2U; May 29, 2024 at 11:34 PM.
Took my car in to Christian Brothers for its 1st oil change. I had previously called ahead and confirmed that they were aware of the lifting points and had the jacking pucks required for the lift. They assured me that they would be using their 4 post lift and all of the weight would be on the tires, which is how they handle other C8s and Teslas. I confirmed this on-site also.
About 10 minutes into the job, they asked me how to raise the convertible roof to get access to the engine compartment. To my surprise, my car had been raised in a different lift using the shipping strap locations (circle, not oval) and no pucks.
I had them pull the car down immediately and politely talked to them. They were nice about it, but couldn’t get past the ignorance of what they were doing was incorrect.
No damage upon inspection, but you can clearly see the pads they used on their lift are larger than the 64 mm (2.5 in) diameter recommended in the manual.
This could have ended differently, just don’t want them to end up with another “red C8” situation.
Back to the local Chevy dealership for service. Had avoided them due to a previous issue (cracked oil filter lid on suburban leaked oil all over garage floor), but hopefully they are familiar with the recommended lift points.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Have you tried to find even a Red permanent lift pad with or without a sticker that says lift here! (BTW, a sticker put on the rear side of C8, tech could place his lift pad ~4 inches in and be lifting on the BODY NOT FRAME.) Try it in the garage. You have to put your head on the garage floor to see the rear! I have watches tech at the large Chev/BMW/Mercedes dealer with ~ 30 bays and all (but the alignment rack) are center post lifts with 4 arms. I saw a tech kick an arm under a car with his foot. No way was he going to put his head on the ground to see a permanent lift pad!
Even if the dealer bought and has jack pads, to check out any special tool the tech typically goes to Parts who keeps them and has to sign them out. IF they do not return they are charged for a new one! Big PIA and most will not do that. Even the great C8 Trained tech who did my 2020 C8 service and E-Ray PDI does not have jack pads! He is not going to pay for them to put in this tool box. Mechanics have their own tools!
Tech agreed with me that the large pads on his center post lift would not be assured to lifting at the right frame spot. So I brought him 4 jack pads for the PDI. He knows now they are in my tool bag in the Frunk (along with my wheel lock key) and gets them!
SIDEBAR
Pic below is a benefit of GM spec'd pads:
When replacing the DCT filter to remove the ~30 bolts holding what GM refers to as the shear plate (which is also the rear aero panel there are to bolts on each end that are close to the lifting pad frame oval. By using the 2 1/2 inch max diameter pads I have the Tech at the small dealership I now use was able to get those bolts off with an open end(or Box wrench.) Others he used his powered wrench. TOP PIC. Caption for bottom Pic under pic.
This is Chuck at the dealership where Conti is the salesman. Knowledgeable good guy, IMO. This is from a video where I noted "no way is he putting his head on the garage floor." Also he is putting his Large Pads fixed to the end of the Lift Arms under the oval slots . Expect Chuck gets it right. But in a video where he was showing what was needed to change the DCT filter he noted they had to lift the C8 several times to position those large pads off of the 4 bolts!
BOTTOM LINE
IMO best to buy 4 jack pads, put them in the Frunk and discuss with the service folks you want them used. Good for tire shop as well as dealer. I brought the Pic of a C8 that fell and showed it to the Tech. He had not seen. Always uses my pads. BTW IF you know where the oval slots are, especially in the rear can reach in and slip the end of the pad in the slot and rotate 90 degrees. that is what I do when lifting the Vette.
I have 4 of these in my Frunk Tool Bag
They are getting cheap. These are on Amazon.
Last edited by JerryU; May 30, 2024 at 03:44 PM.
Before I put them on my lowered 07 I had the set I kept in the car. Gave them to tire shop and told them how to use them. They did not, and car fell off the jack. Busted driver side front qtr. their insurance paid for the repair.
Thats when I started using permanent pucks. I sandwiched two sets together on the C7 to make them easier to see with side skirts.
Took my car in to Christian Brothers for its 1st oil change. I had previously called ahead and confirmed that they were aware of the lifting points and had the jacking pucks required for the lift. They assured me that they would be using their 4 post lift and all of the weight would be on the tires, which is how they handle other C8s and Teslas. I confirmed this on-site also.
About 10 minutes into the job, they asked me how to raise the convertible roof to get access to the engine compartment. To my surprise, my car had been raised in a different lift using the shipping strap locations (circle, not oval) and no pucks.
I had them pull the car down immediately and politely talked to them. They were nice about it, but couldn’t get past the ignorance of what they were doing was incorrect.
No damage upon inspection, but you can clearly see the pads they used on their lift are larger than the 64 mm (2.5 in) diameter recommended in the manual.
This could have ended differently, just don’t want them to end up with another “red C8” situation.
Back to the local Chevy dealership for service. Had avoided them due to a previous issue (cracked oil filter lid on suburban leaked oil all over garage floor), but hopefully they are familiar with the recommended lift points.
2) Dodged a bullet. I would never go back there.
When you look at this failure it may have been just as I show above. It looks like a Jack Arm Pad may have been on a body NOT the frame that is 8 to 10 inches BACK from the body. Put the jack arm pad just inside the body and that body part will not hold the car! My E-Ray will be lifted with GM spec'd 2 1/2 inch diameter pads, in my case 1 inch high installed when lifting! Everybody can use what they wish.




- if the car had an issue away from the home 'trusted' dealer.
- if the car required attention by a non dealer and required lifting
- if the car was being driven by my wife or daughter ahd required lifting
Then there was a preprinted large "note" in the glovebox to hand over the the dealer/shop/etc that instructed folks to look for the correct lifting points below the car identied by the red jack pucks and yellow 'lft here' decals.



















