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I have a 2022 with NPP. I bought a Borla ATAK. The first two had a defective valve so Borla swapped them out and has been great to work with. I'm on my third and they said if I still have problems then it's just not compatible with my car and I'd have to go back to stock.
My third was installed today and when I am not in Z mode, it shows off and off for exhaust control valve position and exhaust control valve position bank 2. When I switch to Z mode so it stays in V8 mode, I get out of range and open. My last two exhausts have never showed out of range. Nothing changes when I hit learn.
Now I got a CEL because of the exhaust after trying to hit learn.
Suggestions?
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You are very patient since you are on your third exhaust system. I think I would be searching for a different exhaust if I were having that many problems. But good luck and perhaps it will turn out to be something easily remedied.
You are very patient since you are on your third exhaust system. I think I would be searching for a different exhaust if I were having that many problems. But good luck and perhaps it will turn out to be something easily remedied.
Do you think all aftermarket exhausts will give me this issue?
Perhaps the issue is with one or more of your actuators and not the valves? As you know, when the Borla system is installed, you remove the actuators from your old system, and install them on the new one. Check the connectors - unplug and re-seat them. Check the wiring to the connectors for possible damage that may have happened during the installation.
There are procedures for further troubleshooting issues with the valves/actuators - some of them terminate with replacement of the actuator. You could get access to the service manual and attempt to follow the procedure (s).
You could put you old system back in with the original actuators and see if the problem goes away. If it does then it was the Borla system. If it does not, then its actuators or related circuits.
There is no logic to Borla saying it 'might not be compatible' with your car. Sounds like they have bent over backwards and are now just trying to get out of the situation and I can't really blame them. I too would suspect an actuator. You have a buddy close by that you could swap actuators from to troubleshoot before you go throwing money at the problem?
edit: Also, I don't think the actuators are side-specific are they? You could just swap everything side to side and see if your codes change.
Last edited by combatninja; Jul 20, 2024 at 10:16 AM.
If it makes any difference, I sent video and audio to Borla each of the first two times. I would be in V4 mode and get a rattling just prior to the car going to V8 mode.
Are actuators a warranty item from Chevy? My car is still under bumper to bumper.
There are a lot of Borla exhausts working flawlessly on C8's (I have an S-type). I'm betting on a flaw in your car, such as an actuator, as was previously mentioned.
Should I go back to the shop that did it and ask them to look at something specific?
Yes. Check and reseat the connectors to the actuators. Check the integrity of the wiring harness and wires going into the the actuators. Check that the actuators are installed correctly and not loose. And, in the service manual there are procedures for circuit tests etc - get a copy of the manual and follow the procedures for the DTCs that are set.
With the car on the lift, in a shop, one could watch the motion of the tail pipe actuators to verify that they seem to at least work. Actually, you can (I can and have) watch the tail pipe actuators with the car on the ground, just by looking at them (post 30 at this thread
Yes. Check and reseat the connectors to the actuators. Check the integrity of the wiring harness and wires going into the the actuators. Check that the actuators are installed correctly and not loose. And, in the service manual there are procedures for circuit tests etc - get a copy of the manual and follow the procedures for the DTCs that are set.
With the car on the lift, in a shop, one could watch the motion of the tail pipe actuators to verify that they seem to at least work. Actually, you can (I can and have) watch the tail pipe actuators with the car on the ground, just by looking at them (post 30 at this thread
Thanks, I'll do that. One note, when I hit the Z button, I do get a louder tone, so something is working, but it sounds like not too well.
I also found another thread on this forum that said the actuators may be opening too much because of different tolerances on the NPP vs. Borla exhausts. Could that apply too?
Thanks, I'll do that. One note, when I hit the Z button, I do get a louder tone, so something is working, but it sounds like not too well.
I also found another thread on this forum that said the actuators may be opening too much because of different tolerances on the NPP vs. Borla exhausts. Could that apply too?
I do not know. I would assume and hope that Borla designed the travel and lash/play of the valve on their muffler to match that of the OEM valves. However, the actuators are sensitive to the actual travel, and apparently there is enough variation in the OEM system, that the it is necessary to run the learn program. Even with OEM systems, if the actuator is disturbed, or the OEM muffler is replaced with another OEM muffler, the system must be relearned. It is leaning the expected travel of the valves, so that if and when a problem develops, the car can sense it and set a DTC. Perhaps the Borla units valve travel is not consistent, so even after it has been relearned, it can vary enough to set the DTC. But I do not know that. Most report successful installation of the Borla unit.
After three attempts I suspect it’s a problem with the actuators, wiring or install. I remember swapping out the actuators when installing my ATAK, and they had to be positioned a certain way… and one of the pins did not have anti-seize lub, which I applied but would have certainly been a problem down the road. Sucks that you’ve been dealing with this, and I hope you can get it resolved.
After three attempts I suspect it’s a problem with the actuators, wiring or install. I remember swapping out the actuators when installing my ATAK, and they had to be positioned a certain way… and one of the pins did not have anti-seize lub, which I applied but would have certainly been a problem down the road. Sucks that you’ve been dealing with this, and I hope you can get it resolved.
Do you think I should buy a new actuator off eBay and ask them to reinstall it, or just have them look at the actuator first?
If they're going in there anyway, might as well install new ones. Not much they can really see, beyond confirming it's hooked up & plugged in correctly (after 3 attempts you'd sure think they'd get it right).
Looks like news valve motors are about $150/each, but I've seen used sets go for around $100/set of 4.
maybe I missed it, but who is doing the installations? I ask because sTz describes some things that (may) need to be done. I would think both Borla and any shop that does this installation (or any other type of installation) knows that there are "quirks" or "tricks" to many things esp. "how-to-install" projects.
I know this isn't a specific help for your question, but here's one that may help: has the tech rep at Borla spoken directly to the installers at whatever shop, so that tech-can-talk-to-tech?
maybe I missed it, but who is doing the installations? I ask because sTz describes some things that (may) need to be done. I would think both Borla and any shop that does this installation (or any other type of installation) knows that there are "quirks" or "tricks" to many things esp. "how-to-install" projects.
I know this isn't a specific help for your question, but here's one that may help: has the tech rep at Borla spoken directly to the installers at whatever shop, so that tech-can-talk-to-tech?
Good luck.
First install was the dealer that is known for Corvettes in the area. The tech did admit it was his first. The second and third install was from a place that specializes in high end cars and mid engine Porches. They've done some before. Neither sound like they've done a ton of installs.
I haven't had Borla talk with the shop. I'm just trying to figure out what to ask the shop on Monday when they open back up.
If they're going in there anyway, might as well install new ones. Not much they can really see, beyond confirming it's hooked up & plugged in correctly (after 3 attempts you'd sure think they'd get it right).
Looks like news valve motors are about $150/each, but I've seen used sets go for around $100/set of 4.
My car is under bumper to bumper still. Should I be going to any Chevy dealer and having them warranty this?
Borla ATAK valve problem
