Today I ended a 3200-mile road trip. Driving back to my home in South Florida I started in Pendelton, South Carolina. No problems until I got to South Georgia. I experienced outside air temperatures of up to 101 degrees. My AC began to act up. It was still blowing cold air, but the fan motor would not go past the lowest setting. At times it seemed like no cold air was coming out of the vents.

Around the same time my dash display began acting up. The tire temps were displaying 35 front and 34 rear but the display was indicating the tires were too hot. I run the display in track mode and the small squares on the left side of the display went blank.

I stopped for gas and the AC began to work for a few minutes then returned to inoperative.

I reset the display and replaced my display choices, and it did not give me any further problems.

Later when the outside air temperature came down a bit the AC began to work again.

I have previously had the same problem with the AC for very short durations, but never for hours as today.

Of course, now it is working, and the dealer won't see a problem.

My coolant Temp, oil temp and transmission temp all remained in their normal temp while I was driving.

Has anyone else had similar problems.

My car is a 2024 Stingray coupe with 22,307 miles.

 

Definitely strange, sounds more like the compressor turned off for a few, but overall seems like maybe a system glitch.
Try turning your car off, and leaving your drivers door open for 90 seconds to reset the modules.
That has fixed many electrical gremlins that intermittently crop up.
You could also remove the negative wire from the battery for about 15 mins for a complete system re-set...
Good luck!

 

A mechanic should know if there is any self resetting thermal protection for any of the air conditioner components. Assuming that the display issue was unrelated it sounds like that may be the case. Sometimes the Billy Bob approach (look at what you can and see if there is any blockage like a mouse nest in a bad spot) can help, you also wonder about a restricted cabin air filter but the symptoms don't seem to suggest that. Good Luck, please let us know when you find the issue.

 

In this case, assuming you're correct, it would probably be a High Pressure cut-off switch which could be self-resetting. I have a MACS certification and many years ago was the HVAC mech for Yellow Cab.

 

There are many DTCs that can be set but will not cause the MIL (aka CEL) lamp to illuminate. And most codes will remain in memory for a period of time even if the issue was intermittent. So....I would take it to a dealer ASAP while the codes, if any, are still in memory.

Or check with a scan tool if you have one.

 

I had the same thing happen on a cross country trip to Cali a few years back. Found a dealer to look it over before the return trip. They could not find anything wrong. Suggested system got out of sync, something got frosted over etc......... came back across country not issues. I'd bet if you went to eat..... let the car sit you might have been ok. Off the subject but here in SC its cooking. Our AC just stopped blowing cold air in June a weekend of course. Turned it off for 20 minutes and alls been well. It just takes some relay, some switch to skip a cycle sometimes.

 

I will throw this out as well. Often, when seemingly unrelated issues arise, like the AC blower limited to low speed, and issues with the tire temperature display, its a low battery.

The car has a battery management algorithm that will invoke load shedding when it detects a low battery condition. Under certain conditions the Electrical Power Management System will start to cycle the HVAC off periodically. So, besides have the dealer check for codes, you might consider having them also check the battery.

 

agree with post #4, high pressure switch. protects compressor from high pressure in system from high ambient temps, resets automatically when system cools down a bit.

 

I could see the load shedding and low battery being a problem is engine speed is low (i.e., idle or stop and go traffic). But during cruising the alternator should be able to put out enough current to power everything.

I seem to remember someone having a problem with the evaporator freezing up that was cured by a software update.

 

Most likely the heat exchanger frosted over. This can happen in high temp/high humidity situations. If it happens again, turn off the AC and put the heat on high and see if the air volume increases to normal. Then put the ac back on. It’s happened to me albeit not in the C8. If the problem persists it could indicate low refrigerant in the system.

 

The AC problem is fairly widespread it seems, I have seen it at least 5 times and I have a few friends that have seen. I did take it to the dealer to at least get the issue on record. My friends same, as you should. At issue is once car is shut off it will not do it again. It will show no error codes at any level. I did figure out a work around to at least keep you cooling. Turn Auto off, then power off, for about 30 sec or more, then turn on. You can also shut off car and restart.

I did talk to a GM engineer about this issue and he told me to make sure you report the issue.....its the only way they know they have a systemic problem.

 

Just another thought... having done a lot of automotive A/C work in the past, this could be a systemic and somewhat similar problem like the early C7 Z06s suffered from, an inadequate engine cooling system. In this case, instead of radiators/engine cooling components it's A/C condensors/refrigerant circuitry/controls. The symptoms tend to point to something like that. There are many other possibilities too, some mentioned here, some waaaay out in left field too..

 

The AC problem is fairly widespread it seems, I have seen it at least 5 times and I have a few friends that have seen. I did take it to the dealer to at least get the issue on record. My friends same, as you should. At issue is once car is shut off it will not do it again. It will show no error codes at any level. I did figure out a work around to at least keep you cooling. Turn Auto off, then power off, for about 30 sec or more, then turn on. You can also shut off car and restart.

I did talk to a GM engineer about this issue and he told me to make sure you report the issue.....its the only way they know they have a systemic problem.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I drove today with no problems.

I am taking it in on Monday for a check. Also found out on Tech Tuesday there is a recall for 2024 and 2025 cars due to a seal in the door that might be allowing water to enter the cabin.

Right now the car is sitting in te garage with the driver's door open until the next ride. If the problems persist and I can't get it resolved through Chevy, then the battery disconnect is next.

 

I drove the car yesterday in 97 degree temperature and the AC was strong. Hope the open door reset does the trick.

 

I have had this problem happen a number of times on my 2023. I chatted with a couple of engineers at the museum anniversary last year and they had never heard of it and told me to make sure I reported it to my local dealer, which I did, at each occurrence. Each time GM engineering was involved finding nothing, but noting issue. My service rep told me a number of C8s at his dealer had reported the same issue. Recently a friend saw the same issue on his 2023 and took it to dealer. The dealer invoked engineering again and engineering reported that the problem had been replicated in engineering and the problem is a systemic issue with an internal relay within the compressor. My buddy's compressor was replaced, and the dealer ordered (5) immediately. My service rep contacted me to inform of this fix and to schedule an appointment. I am scheduled to have my compressor replaced this Monday 9/28. My buddy told me this is a $1600 warranty fix, so if you have experienced this and have reported it, get in and get it fixed!!!!