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I have an order in for a z06 with Auto Lift. I understand that front-end suspension modifications may be more difficult but I am wondering if when the time comes is there any requirement to use special/specific "shocks" for the Auto Lift?
No change to the shock when you want to lower the car. No special tools. Maybe some spring compressors because you have to remove the shock and the coil spring to install the collar.
Paragon has a good video that shows how to install their lowering collars.
You need to dis-connect the front hydraulic lift cylinder on each shock to remove the shock. Install the lowering collar, then re-install and connect the hydraulic. You need to bleed the air out of the hydraulic system or the front lift will not raise all the way. that is an important step they left out.
Just like removing a brake caliper, you cannot do it without getting air in the system and one air bubble will cause it to not work correctly.
No change to the shock when you want to lower the car. No special tools. Maybe some spring compressors because you have to remove the shock and the coil spring to install the collar.
Paragon has a good video that shows how to install their lowering collars.
You need to dis-connect the front hydraulic lift cylinder on each shock to remove the shock. Install the lowering collar, then re-install and connect the hydraulic. You need to bleed the air out of the hydraulic system or the front lift will not raise all the way. that is an important step they left out.
Just like removing a brake caliper, you cannot do it without getting air in the system and one air bubble will cause it to not work correctly.
Perfect thanks! So the Auto Lift doesn’t really make front suspension mods any more difficult. Makes me feel even better I selected that option.
Just like removing a brake caliper, you cannot do it without getting air in the system and one air bubble will cause it to not work correctly.
I was baffled they didn't say anything about this. I left a comment and they responded "Bleeding the system is topping off the fluid & operating the system 3-5 times." I would have remade the whole video if I realized I left that out! The good thing is it sounds like you at least don't need two people like bleeding calipers at least... as easy as pressing a button in theory with the cap off of the reservoir, it sounds like?
I have an order in for a z06 with Auto Lift. I understand that front-end suspension modifications may be more difficult but I am wondering if when the time comes is there any requirement to use special/specific "shocks" for the Auto Lift?
Hmm, as you note there are issues if trying to lower the car. Unlike suspension without a Front Lift where you can rotate the spring seat to lower the car (Pic left) in the front the Lift replaces that assembly with a hydraulic cylinder. Paragon sells reduced height internal leaves that can be used if you remove and disassemble the front coilovers. However appears the install can cause issues as reported on the Forum.
Also when replacing the front coil overs, they are different.
They are not hard to lower, just a few things to know. Rears are like any other coil over. Spanner wrenches are sold to work them but a hammer and large flat can normally knock them lose and adjust too. There is 2 wires connector coming out the top for mag ride. If you are changing springs or taking it apart you need to DE- pin this, and slide wires out of the top nut. Then put them back once assembled again. mark which pin goes in which hole.
Non front lifts work the same as the rear.
Front lift cars do not have the adjustable Pearch, but the Hydraulic bag as seen in pic above in the guys hand. Basically all is the same other then the pearch. Once you take top nut off and spring off the pearch, The bag and factory collar just slide off the shock. The factory collar has a lip that catches a lip on shock body and then bag sits on it (can see silver factory collar in pic below). The lowering collars replace this and allow it to slide farther down the shock body Can see a paragon in the same pic . (1/2 with no spacer and 1/4 with spacer). this is what lowers the front. can see the bag / pearch is sitting lower on the shock closer to the A arm.mount
Mark with Sharpey the shock, bag, and spring so they all aline back when assembling and keep checking as spring and top nut are put back and when putting back in car they can spin.
Dont be a monkey and impact the crap out of the top nut spinning rod in the shock. Clamp rod with rubber, break free and loosen with spring compressed.
Replace the banjo crush washers GM part # 21012386 you need 4. one on each side of the Banjo bolt. The banjo bolt has a tab that caches the mounting boss to keep it strait. Can see mounting boss in pic above with guys hand holding it. Torque to spec.
Check fluid level every cycle as you run it a few times to work bubbles out and replace lost fluild
They are not hard to lower, just a few things to know. Rears are like any other coil over. Spanner wrenches are sold to work them but a hammer and large flat can normally knock them lose and adjust too. There is 2 wires connector coming out the top for mag ride. If you are changing springs or taking it apart you need to DE- pin this, and slide wires out of the top nut. Then put them back once assembled again. mark which pin goes in which hole.
Non front lifts work the same as the rear.
Front lift cars do not have the adjustable Pearch, but the Hydraulic bag as seen in pic above in the guys hand. Basically all is the same other then the pearch. Once you take top nut off and spring off the pearch, The bag and factory collar just slide off the shock. The factory collar has a lip that catches a lip on shock body and then bag sits on it (can see silver factory collar in pic below). The lowering collars replace this and allow it to slide farther down the shock body Can see a paragon in the same pic . (1/2 with no spacer and 1/4 with spacer). this is what lowers the front. can see the bag / pearch is sitting lower on the shock closer to the A arm.mount
Mark with Sharpey the shock, bag, and spring so they all aline back when assembling and keep checking as spring and top nut are put back and when putting back in car they can spin.
Dont be a monkey and impact the crap out of the top nut spinning rod in the shock. Clamp rod with rubber, break free and loosen with spring compressed.
Replace the banjo crush washers GM part # 21012386 you need 4. one on each side of the Banjo bolt. The banjo bolt has a tab that caches the mounting boss to keep it strait. Can see mounting boss in pic above with guys hand holding it. Torque to spec.
Check fluid level every cycle as you run it a few times to work bubbles out and replace lost fluild
Hmm, may not be hard for some BUT GM warns:
@Andybump posted this past April a GM Bulletin that is a good summary of what many have posted when their Paragon "lowering sleeves" cause failures:"
Here is the bulletin to dealers about that. It actually depicts the Paragon labeled product. Interpret it as you see fit.
"Before any diagnosis of the front lift system takes place, the front shocks should be inspected to confirm they have not been modified. The E60 front lift system shocks should not be modified to lower the vehicle in any way. Lowering the lift actuator may cause internal damage to the part. Repairs to the front lift system after the shocks modification should NOT be submitted as a warranty repair. Damage to suspension components caused by modifying vehicle height outside of factory settings will not be covered by the vehicle warranty."
So it specifically rules out warranty repair to the front lift system if the shocks have been modified (and they view the Paragon lift kit as a shock modification). But equally ominous is the more general warning about damage to suspension components caused by the modification. That second part, however, is not really news. The Warranty Manual is very clear that damage to any component caused by the installation of an aftermarket component is not covered. And - almost all procedures in the Service Manual have a reference to a section that reminds the tech to inspect for aftermarket devices. In the case of suspension related issues - its even more explicit - saying to first verify that the ride height is within specs. If not.....they are not require to proceed with a diagnostic procedure under the warranty."
Hmm, may not be hard for some BUT GM warns:
@Andybump posted this past April a GM Bulletin that is a good summary of what many have posted when their Paragon "lowering sleeves" cause failures:"
Here is the bulletin to dealers about that. It actually depicts the Paragon labeled product. Interpret it as you see fit.
"Before any diagnosis of the front lift system takes place, the front shocks should be inspected to confirm they have not been modified. The E60 front lift system shocks should not be modified to lower the vehicle in any way. Lowering the lift actuator may cause internal damage to the part. Repairs to the front lift system after the shocks modification should NOT be submitted as a warranty repair. Damage to suspension components caused by modifying vehicle height outside of factory settings will not be covered by the vehicle warranty."
So it specifically rules out warranty repair to the front lift system if the shocks have been modified (and they view the Paragon lift kit as a shock modification). But equally ominous is the more general warning about damage to suspension components caused by the modification. That second part, however, is not really news. The Warranty Manual is very clear that damage to any component caused by the installation of an aftermarket component is not covered. And - almost all procedures in the Service Manual have a reference to a section that reminds the tech to inspect for aftermarket devices. In the case of suspension related issues - its even more explicit - saying to first verify that the ride height is within specs. If not.....they are not require to proceed with a diagnostic procedure under the warranty."
I think that most that make such mods to their vehicle are aware that there might be an issue with a warranty claim if an issue arises, and are willing to take the risk. There are a few threads where it has actually happened with this particular mod - that is - a dealer would not work on the vehicle because of the ride height modification. In at least one case the dealer said they would work on it if the modification was removed. Pursuant to what you said about verifying the ride height before proceeding.
But what I find interesting about the particular wording of the bulletin is that instructs the dealer not to file a claim if the modification is present. It says nothing about determining if the modification actually caused the damage. Technically, I thought, a warranty claim should not be denied solely because of an installed aftermarket component. But the bulletin seems to gloss over that point. Just an observation. I suppose if the modification prevents them from following the diagnosis procedure, which this modification does, perhaps that is sufficient grounds stopping the work.
I don't see a situation where I personally would want to lower the front but I can see where others may want to.
If I understood all this correct, when it comes time to replace the front shocks they would need to be replaced with Front Lift compatible shocks. Am I correct?
I think that most that make such mods to their vehicle are aware that there might be an issue with a warranty claim if an issue arises, and are willing to take the risk. There are a few threads where it has actually happened with this particular mod - that is - a dealer would not work on the vehicle because of the ride height modification. In at least one case the dealer said they would work on it if the modification was removed. Pursuant to what you said about verifying the ride height before proceeding.
But what I find interesting about the particular wording of the bulletin is that instructs the dealer not to file a claim if the modification is present. It says nothing about determining if the modification actually caused the damage. Technically, I thought, a warranty claim should not be denied solely because of an installed aftermarket component. But the bulletin seems to gloss over that point. Just an observation. I suppose if the modification prevents them from following the diagnosis procedure, which this modification does, perhaps that is sufficient grounds stopping the work.
Andy, look at the 34 page instruction manual from Paragon I posted. Just removing that shock electrical connector is tricky. Been many posts with issues since I got my 2020 C8 Z51 with Lift AND now have my 2024 E-Ray with Lift. Perhaps IF near Paragon AND they install might be worth the risk.
I'm happy with the E-Ray ride height! Use my Lift all the time and have it programed to "Automatically Lift" for a number of driveways in town. We're pretty flat in NE SC so lots of rain drains on some streets. It's a geometry issue. In some the front wheel drops in rain drain recess and things scrape. In my case would not drive a C8 without a Lift.
To answer the question "It Lifts Automatically" if you program the ~100 locations the memory holds. BTW I never lift at road bump stop! None are that high. To calculate IF a rain drain is the shape with surrounding road profile would require Euclid. It's not a simple bump height issue!
Andy, look at the 34 page instruction manual from Paragon I posted. Just removing that shock electrical connector is tricky. Been many posts with issues since I got my 2020 C8 Z51 with Lift AND now have my 2024 E-Ray with Lift. Perhaps IF near Paragon AND they install might be worth the risk.
I'm happy with the E-Ray ride height! Use my Lift all the time and have it programed to "Automatically Lift" for a number of driveways in town. We're pretty flat in NE SC so lots of rain drains on some streets. It's a geometry issue. In some the front wheel drops in rain drain recess and things scrape. In my case would not drive a C8 without a Lift.
To answer the question "It Lifts Automatically" if you program the ~100 locations the memory holds. BTW I never lift at road bump stop! None are that high. To calculate IF a rain drain is the shape with surrounding road profile would require Euclid. It's not a simple bump height issue!
Yup, I am in the Myrtle Beach area and the funky lips they have on the driveway curbs around here make it almost a must for a C8 with a splitter on the front...
I don't see a situation where I personally would want to lower the front but I can see where others may want to.
If I understood all this correct, when it comes time to replace the front shocks they would need to be replaced with Front Lift compatible shocks. Am I correct?
Un pinning a connector with a De-pin tool... its not rocket science, its a tool you push in and it hits the locking tabs, and pushes them in, and you pull out the pin/wire of the connector. It can be "Tricky" by the means it may take you a time of 2 messing with the tool on the pin with some light. Like pushing led back in a mechanical pencil..... tricky but not hard.
He did not ask about warranty, but yes GM warns against collars, just cause they don't want to fix crap people mess with. But if done right should not be an issue other then something can break on anything.
People lowering and playing with a cars this is not a hard car to lower at all. Mind is on collars and lowering springs. 1,5 inch drop at all 4 corners. with front lift.
Yup, I am in the Myrtle Beach area and the funky lips they have on the driveway curbs around here make it almost a must for a C8 with a splitter on the front...
I'm in Florence and in town a number of roads have rain drain depressions. I'm on the East Side in a rural area and we have mostly very deep rain drain ditches on the side of the rural roads!
This is a good example of where I scraped my C8 Z51 with aftermarket copy of a GM 5VM Splitter slightly with LIFT activated. Thought with my E-Ray where I have only the OEM Mini Splitter no way I could scrape exiting that same driveway in town. BUT did just slightly!
I only have the OEM Mini Splitter on my E-Ray
This is a driveway to a parking lot I went in with my C8 with Lift and no issue. Did the same with my E-Ray.
But as I did with my 2020 C8 Z51 with LIFT and 5VM Splitter and scaped, though no way with LIFT activated would it scrape. IT DID! It's a question of geometry of the rain drain recess and road. In the exit the rain drain recess is somewhat deeper. When the wheel goes down depending on where the splitter is located it can scrape. In this case heard a slight scrape. When I got home saw this screw head holding the Mini Splitter scraped! No big de al but if i had added the GM Ground Effects Optional Splitter or other aftermarket splitter it would have!
Un pinning a connector with a De-pin tool... its not rocket science, its a tool you push in and it hits the locking tabs, and pushes them in, and you pull out the pin/wire of the connector. It can be "Tricky" by the means it may take you a time of 2 messing with the tool on the pin with some light. Like pushing led back in a mechanical pencil..... tricky but not hard.
He did not ask about warranty, but yes GM warns against collars, just cause they don't want to fix crap people mess with. But if done right should not be an issue other then something can break on anything.
People lowering and playing with a cars this is not a hard car to lower at all. Mind is on collars and lowering springs. 1,5 inch drop at all 4 corners. with front lift.
Looks good!
Yep for my street rod that mostly goes to shows I have the adjustable coilovers in all 4 corners set to have the tires stuck up inside the fenders. Can't see the tops of tires back or front. Great for a show car. Does limit my turning radius!
I have an order in for a z06 with Auto Lift. I understand that front-end suspension modifications may be more difficult but I am wondering if when the time comes is there any requirement to use special/specific "shocks" for the Auto Lift?
If you intend to do any real front end suspension mods, such as new coilovers, do not get front end lift. The only "mod" you can do is lowering collars. Otherwise you are going run the risk of lift issues along with ongoing error codes. BTW - Lowering collars WILL void your front end lift warranty.
I'm in Florence and in town a number of roads have rain drain depressions. I'm on the East Side in a rural area and we have mostly very deep rain drain ditches on the side of the rural roads!
This is a good example of where I scraped my C8 Z51 with aftermarket copy of a GM 5VM Splitter slightly with LIFT activated. Thought with my E-Ray where I have only the OEM Mini Splitter no way I could scrape exiting that same driveway in town. BUT did just slightly!
I only have the OEM Mini Splitter on my E-Ray
This is a driveway to a parking lot I went in with my C8 with Lift and no issue. Did the same with my E-Ray.
But as I did with my 2020 C8 Z51 with LIFT and 5VM Splitter and scaped, though no way with LIFT activated would it scrape. IT DID! It's a question of geometry of the rain drain recess and road. In the exit the rain drain recess is somewhat deeper. When the wheel goes down depending on where the splitter is located it can scrape. In this case heard a slight scrape. When I got home saw this screw head holding the Mini Splitter scraped! No big de al but if i had added the GM Ground Effects Optional Splitter or other aftermarket splitter it would have!
I drive through there on 52 all the time when driving between Charlotte and MB, in fact the picture looks like 52.