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If you watch the video by AFE they put several to the test on a Dyno. The aftermarket filters are less restrictive. They advise that if it's time to change your filter that you may want to upgrade. They also say that if it's not time, the difference is minimal and no need for the upgrade.
There was a sale on the Afe dry air filter a year ago so I got one, even though my OEM filter wasn't due for a change; however, there were some leaves inside the airbox so I'm glad I changed it early.
I just replaced my air filter day before yesterday with an OEM filter. The filter was FREE! A generous forum member here had just bought a new C8 that he drove home from the dealer and immediately replaced the OEM filter with an Attack Blue filter. He offered his still "new" OEM filter to any forum member who wanted it. I took him up on his offer. The whole job took +/- 30 minutes.
I noticed the air cleaner for engine is down to 19%. I have a 2023 Stingray with Z51 and 10,000 miles on it at 3 1/2 years old. Do I need to have it changed or should I reset it....
First I am not interested in changing it to an attack blue filter and second, my Corvette mechanic (about 25 years experience at a Chevy dealer) said he has seen many with more mileage and not needing to be changed. And I don't drive in dusty areas.
When did you change yours if you did. Thank you,
Steve
Hmm, for whatever reason GM says change more often in a "Wide Body etc:" "Change the engine air filter in your C8 Corvette in widebody models like the Z06, E-Ray, or Stingray with aero packages every 10,000 to 15,000 miles or every two years, whichever comes first."
Perhaps those larger wide body rear fender scoops let in more debris! Pretty open shot from fender scoops to filter hosung! Not expensive but PIA! Have to remove the truck!
This is a "How To" made when I changed my C8 filter for a lower restriction filter. But same procedure whatever replacement you pick!
Here are a few Pics from the ~30 in my Doc, which consists of Pics and long Descriptive Captions.
Need some sort of cover over a wing as you'll be reaching in far. If you have a high wing hope you have an NBA Player as a neighbor as need long legs and long arms!
Lots of screws, fittings to remove to get trunk OUT!
Trunk out on ground
Only then can you see air filter housing
Caution: Remove 3 long screws on bottom 1st! Can't see them BUT use two hands, one to hold screw when it is finally out! If you don't and it falls in the Aluminum Shear Plate may have to Jack Car and remove the aluminum shear plate. Same one you remove to replace DCT filter.
There is a "trick" I found needed to get new filter to stay in place. It would fall out as I tried to replace filter cover. as you replace cover. Too detailed for simple Pic, takes several and explanation!
Just replaced mine at 4yrs with an OEM.
After I replaced mine I saw a video that claimed the WIX filter and the OEM filter were exactly the same..They both are made in Mexico and have the exact same tooling marks so they appear to be the same filter. The WIX filter is half the price of the OEM.
Since you mentioned WIX, we toured their very large (375,000 square feet) engine air/cabin/oil filter plant in Dillon SC with our local ASME Section a few years ago. Since closed. The ME who conducted the tour when I asked why they use paper as the filter media, said BECAUSE It's cheap! They also made a special engine air filter for NASCAR.
Highly automated. Recall oil filters where hard to read the brand as they moved so fast AND changed labels on the fly. Remember for oil filters that had a steel nut welded to the bottom of the housing for removal and installation, they had two automated Laser welders. They made for aftermarket, trucks, with names like NAPA etc as well as OEMs.
Been in the Wix in Gastonia many times as my company, me as a tech back then, did their calibrations (as well as in yours Jerry).
Originally Posted by JerryU
Since you mentioned WIX, we toured their very large (375,000 square feet) engine air/cabin/oil filter plant in Dillon SC with our local ASME Section a few years ago. Since closed. The ME who conducted the tour when I asked why they use paper as the filter media, said BECAUSE It's cheap! They also made a special engine air filter for NASCAR.
Highly automated. Recall oil filters where hard to read the brand as they moved so fast AND changed labels on the fly. Remember for oil filters that had a steel nut welded to the bottom of the housing for removal and installation, they had two automated Laser welders. They made for aftermarket, trucks, with names like NAPA etc as well as OEMs.
Been in the Wix in Gastonia many times as my company, me as a tech back then, did their calibrations (as well as in yours Jerry).
Yep the Dillon operation started in 1969 and then shut down. That was about the same year our ~800 person plant moved from "Up North " to Florence SC started. Formed a leveraged buyout and consolidated 3 other plant here in 1985. Sold the business to a 1st class Swedish company in 1990 who were the worldwide leader in our industry. Great folks. Their "Swedish banker based owner's" sold it to British finance group in mid 1990s. It was purchased by a US financial group in ~2000. I retired before our old pension plan ended. They closed the plant with a few folks transferred to a larger plant in Texas. They just announced the Texas plant is closing with product now coming from Mexico and China! Yep US Industry in many segments is gone!
I remember the directions to your site, turn at the Ebenizer church, past the dog sleeping in the driveway, turn at the next Ebenizer church…
25 years ago…
Yep, it was on Ebenezer Road, back off the road with farm field in front. I moved here in 1985. Don't recall the dog but there was a hairpin turn, all farm fields no homes before going over I95. Made that at high speed on the way to work every day in my 1st Vette, a 1988. OEM Goodyears gone in 10,000 miles. The sticky Continental's I replaced them with lasted no longer but were faster. (They rounded the hairpin and now a School and stop light in that corner!)
I changed mine at 10 months from new due to travel across the country, dusty dirty conditions in AZ and CA and cut dirt roads going to alpaca farm in CO and best friends animal sanctuary in Utah.
The filter and housing were both quite dirty at the time and the change was well advised.
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Originally Posted by C5racecar
I bought a $49 blue filter. Cannot tell any difference in performance.
Originally Posted by Zymurgy
$49 blue filter was certainly not a real Attack Blue Filter. There are counterfeit ones being sold at that price level.
Correct. $49 is the overseas knock off.
Originally Posted by RMS73
I use the attack blue. I clean it every year per their instructions. I only drive the vette 2500-3000 miles a year. With cordless tools not a big deal to clean it every year.
The instructions say "Clean every year or 10K or whatever comes first...". The instructions are being changed. It will only say "just clean every 10K".
To the extent that an air filter might increase power, am I correct in assuming that its only measurable at wide open throttle? I figure the increase if any is because the air flow is less restricted. But I also figure that the computer controls the throttle body plate angle using sensors (like the Mass Airflow Sensor) and adjusts the plate for the necessary air flow. So it would compensate for any restriction in the air cleaner up to the point where the plate is wide open. ?????
(I not talking about dirty filters, rather the difference that might exist between an new OEM filter and new one that is marketed as increasing power)
I ran an Attack Blue filter on my ‘21 C8 Stingray for a few years. I’ve also replaced the OEM paper filters with Green filters in a Camaro ZL1, CT5-V Blackwing, and GMC Sierra. In all four vehicles, I eventually went back to the OEM paper filters.
The most noticeable difference was in my Blackwing, where I felt a slight loss of low-rpm torque with the Green filter installed. One thing that rarely gets discussed when swapping filters is airflow turbulence. Any change in airflow characteristics can affect the MAF signal, which in turn influences how the ECM calculates fueling. GM calibrates the MAF using the factory paper filter, so changing the filter media can alter more than just airflow restriction.
The general consensus is that OEM paper filters do a better job of filtering fine dirt and debris. Even if an aftermarket filter provides a small horsepower gain at wide-open throttle, it’s usually only a few horsepower and not something you’re likely to notice on the street. For me, the tradeoff isn’t worth it. I’d rather have the best filtration possible and keep the engine cleaner over the long haul than chase a few horsepower at the top end.
The instructions say "Clean every year or 10K or whatever comes first...". The instructions are being changed. It will only say "just clean every 10K".
That's good that you are removing the requirement to clean it annually. In a lot of cars that is no big deal but it takes some effort in the C8.
It would be nice to know the technical reasoning behind the 10K ile cleaning requirement. The OEM filter is 45K miles. I.e., is it that at 10K miles the performance advantage is significantly lowered, and if you didn't clean it for 45K miles the air flow performance would be similar to an OEM filter? Ir is there some other reason it needs more frequent cleanings?
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