Chevrolet Corvette C8 Brake System Guide

This guide covers much of what you need to know to replace the brake pads and brake rotors on your C8 Z51 Corvette.
We also performed a brake fluid flush and bleed with racing brake fluid.


MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO LIFT THE VEHICLE!


Before starting please be aware of how to safely lift the vehicle. The C8 has both holes AND slots on the underside and you CANNOT use the holes as lift points. Please refer to the images below to correctly identify the lift points. Failure to do this correctly is both dangerous and expensive.




We cannot advise strongly enough to use caution in lifting the vehicle.


Brake Pad Replacement Guide

The video below covers the process we used to replace the brake pads on a C8 Z51 Corvette. Note this was the first time we saw the new model AND the first time the pads were removed. We did not have the semi-rare socket for the cross bolt that GM used on the front brake calipers (part number LASER-6383) AND the factory pads are held to the piston by a strong adhesive. This can make first time removal difficult if the calipers are on the car and the pads are near full thickness.

We do now have those sockets in stock. In the video we removed the front caliper to more easily get the pads out and for a first pad swap that is still suggested.

**UPDATE: Pad swaps are much easier with the adhesive gone and the correct socket.
Raise the car and SAFELY support the vehicle.

Tools required:

• 22mm socket - lug nuts
• Laser-6383 socket - front caliper 9mm spline bolt
• 21mm socket and long handle wrench - front caliper bolts
• T40 Torx Plus - front caliper pins
• Small punch - rear caliper pins
• Channel locks and/or a "flat plate" to lever the pistons back
• Hammer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2T9jvYltqg


Note the race pads where we have filled the chamfer's and sensor notch with added pad material. We also have low dust pads available to those who prefer that.







Brake Rotor Replacement Guide

The video below covers the process of replacing the brake rotors on your C8 Corvette. You will need a strong impact gun or long handled wrenches to break the caliper bolts loose. Raise the car and SAFELY support the vehicle.

Tools you will need:

• 22mm socket - lug nuts
• 21mm socket / long handled wrench - front caliper bolts
• T40 Torx Plus - front caliper pins
• T30 Torx - rotor hold down bolts
• 18mm socket / long handled wrench - rear caliper bolts
• 15mm socket - e-brake caliper bolts
• Small punch - rear caliper pins
• Channel locks and/or a "flat plate" to lever the pistons back
• Hammer
• Small bungee cords to support the brake calipers, or a platform to set them on (do not hang calipers by the brake line)

We installed two-piece Girodisc brake rotors on the Kaizen Motorsports C8 Z51 Corvette. In addition to increased durability, these rotors offer significant un-sprung weight savings.







Brake Bleeding

You will need approximately 3 half liter bottles of brake fluid to flush the whole system. Disconnect the battery first and keep the hood open.
The magnetic bottles are very useful in collecting old fluid.



The front calipers have two bleeder valves each. Fit a small hose over the valves, place the other end of the tube inside a container/bleeder bottle. Use a box end wrench to loosen the bleeder screws until you see the fluid flowing. In our case the racing fluid was darker and more dense than the factory fill so it was easy to see when we were done as the new fluid settled in the bleed bottles. We used gravity and the brake pedal to flush and finished with the 'two-person' method to make sure there was no air in the system.



Keep adding the fresh fluid to the brake reservoir as you bleed. Note the 'chamber' on the top of the master cylinder reservoir will limit how fast you can top it off.

 

No Castrol SRF? How did the Brembo fluid hold up? Did you disconnect the battery to make sure the system didnt activate?

 

The video states 140 for the caliper bolts but the correct torque is 155 Lb/ft. for the front.

 

Too bad this DOT 4 fluid lost approval due to its color, blue. It made a fluid change super easy when the color changed in the bleeder line.
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/B...ake-Fluid.html

 

Does anyone know the screw size or description for the front rotors? I need to buy two new ones.

 

Honestly I’d leave it off. In time it will freeze up on you. Put rotor on and hold it in place with one lug. Put caliper on which will hold the rotor in place. Remove lug. Put wheel on and done. They are pretty common to get.

While I’m at it here’s a reference to my new Girodisc vanes compared to my Brembo type 3 rotor.

 

No kidding it does ok without it? I agree it makes sense that the lugs should hold it much better than a tiny screw.

Anyway I called my local dealer and the screw spec is M6x1x20. Found some at Lowe's for a couple of bucks.

 

Brake Bleeding

You will need approximately 3 half liter bottles of brake fluid to flush the whole system. Disconnect the battery first and keep the hood open.

If you're just replacing brake pads and calipers there's no need to remove any brake lines. Therefore there is no need to bleed the brakes. I installed Carbotech 1521 pads and Girodisc two piece rotors a couple of months after I took delivery of my C8. Did NOT have to bleed the brakes.

 

They specifically called out using pads for track and street. Just stating what everyone should know, if tracking the car, it is recommended to go with a high temp fluid so bleeding is required if that is the intended use. Of course if just swapping pads and rotors for street use, you dont need to bleed the brakes. Not a comment for you MarkMeHopeful, just in case anyone reads this and thinks it isnt something you should do if tracking the car.

 

I just changed to Carbotech I believe front and rear and new front cross drilled slotted rotors. Did break in and did dealership flush supposedly…. To DOT 4. Car has been super mushy on break pedal since tracking car months ago one afternoon soooo thought I glazed brakes or boiled dot 3. Welllll problem remains mushy pedal….. yet fiancés 2023 brakes way mine did! Any thoughts what is still wrong unless dealership didn’t drain correctly still air in lines or master cylinder? It’s much less responsive than my fiancés for certain! Mine was fine till 5, 20 minute sessions giving it Hell few months back….. with everything new pads and front rotors and supposed flush…… no leaky brake lines etc any idea driving me batty…… it remains same brake pedal feel in tour and Z mode not much different in track also…… no current CEL either if there is any caution re braking issues?? Any thoughts what to check next? My buddy on forum thought we re flush and re do fluid etc?? Thanks when able….. feel like my gmc truck brakes not normal! David snell

 

Try this reset David:

1. Press and HOLD start button for approximately 20 SECONDS WITHOUT stepping on the brake pedal. Do not start the car. All displays should be lit, all electronics activated and stereo should play.

2. After approximately 20 seconds and all displays are on, release start button.

3. Stand on brake petal hard and hold it down.

4. A clicking sound will be heard from the ABS brake module mounted on the firewall in the front trunk. Hold brake pedal down firmly until clicking stops, roughly 15-30 seconds.

5. Release brake and push start button to turn the car off.

6. Start car as normal and you are good to go.

 

thanks will try for sure otherwise back to other dealership to re do flush and refill! I’ll try today post result…. Wondered if some abs or braking component is off somehow was wondering if there was any….. restart procedure! I’ll check today post results thanks David

 

what is this process like a relearn that you’re supposed to do after bleeding the brakes?? if it repairs the problem you think the dealership should have known to do that…… The thing that strangers the pedal feels just like it did before I changed all this stuff out! I don’t even think the brakes or the front rotors were bad enough to change out at all mine we weren’t that worn I just thought they were glazed because of the change in the brake pressure! so I’ll try and report back there are no codes to check

 

@David Snell try the above, also what carbotech brake pads are you using? different pads have different bite when cold, but sounds like what you are experiencing is abnormal. Did you do proper pad bedding technique? What specific fl;uid was used and you havent tracked the car since then correct?

 

well tried the process three times on my car absolutely no clicking from the front section at all we did it on my fiancé’s 2023 same process exactly the same no clicking so it doesn’t seem to have worked. Still have the spongy feeling. Can have a friend check any codes tomorrow but again this is existed since I did one day on the track and my brakes have felt spongy ever since and this is with all new pads and front new rotors. I used whatever fluid GM puts in it it’s not to say that they did not bleed it correctly or get air out of the master cylinder etc. I’m gonna check codes tomorrow night have a friend drive it. Then take it to another dealership and see if they can re-bleed them they assure me they know what they’re doing any other thoughts ?? And yes I did the correct break in the box with the brakes which were a series of accelerations and hard stopping with some intervals in between for cool down

 

Assume you dont want to take it back to the dealer that bled the brakes and let them know something is off and take a look? Still curious on the carbotech pad you went with? Assuming it is one of their more street friendly pads?

 

NO do not want to go back NOW one thing that surprised me today was the dealer said the machine they have can electronically BLEED all brakes from top without any bleeding at all?? I will try second dealer to do work then see if issues goes away??

David

 

that is odd, as in bleed from the fluid resovoir without using any of the bleed screws on the caliper? I wouldn’t even know how that could possibly work if that’s what you mean.

 

I ........know exactly what my buddy Chris thought how could that be! SO Ill go to different dealer to0 have them re do it! SEE if issues remains

 

Not trying to be a d$%^ but it feels like a lot of overthinking here.

I flushed/bled the brakes 'normally' back in 2020 when the C8 came out. The 2 man method. Pump it up, hold, crack bleeder, release, repeat a bunch of times.

The only thing I did different was disconnect all the computers as the first step - and reconnect as the last step after the pedal was hard etc.

Zero issues.

It's still a basic hydraulic system - just with a bunch of sensors all over it trying to keep you alive.

You may have glazed the pads. That reduces friction ALOT.

-Ken