See posts 15, 17, and 19. Dealer may put on "Brake Pad Grease" (I use ceramic pad grease, no longer the GM copper colored grease.) I put it not only on the metal pad sides (where GM recommends) but also on the back of my replacement low dust pads. Never had an issue with my 2014 Z51 after switching pads, my 2017 Grand Sport or C8 Z51 which I also installed low dust pads as soon as I got the cars home!

GM will reimburse dealer to pull the pads and install grease. Probably will go away but may come back. BUT the problem isn't lack of grease! That will mask for a while the vibration caused by inconsistent pad material deposited on the rotor (call bedding.). It's very thin so you can't see it but after 6 months I switched from OEM pads on my 2014 C7 and that is best done by removing the residual pad material from the rotors.

It may be an issue if you have not be using the brakes agreesibvly occasionally. of an issue with Z51 but even the base car has performance oriented brake pads. Dealer will not bed the pads for you. If they did GM would not reimburse them! You can google Bedding or look in the owner's manual under tracking for burnishing brakes (GM uses that word and the rest of the World calls it bedding.) Worth a try, see post 15 where I eliminated the low speed squeal with 6 or 7 stops as outlined (NOT THE 25 LISTED IN THE OWNER"S MANUAL IF TRACKING!) Sounded like a stuck pig prior. It went away then i switched to low dust pads as was cleaning my balck wheels every 3 or 4 trips to town (~200 miles) of the dust not only looked bad it was pitting my black wheels!

Here is what the pad residual removed form my 2014 C7 pads looked like when I switched to low dust. You can see the dark area on that new 60 mesh sanding pad.

 

Drive the car harder lol. I wonder how many people don't properly bed their brakes in on a new car.

 

Has anyone taken their car to the dealer for this issue?

I never bedded my brakes but have driven it aggressively. Started to squeak at 5000 miles for my non Z51.

 

The brakes, Base or Z51 are not supposed to be bedded, ONLY the Z51 IF Tracking. You can look in the Owner's Manual (under Tracking Burnishing -what GM calls it) you can see why. Really best to do the 25 times of very aggressive braking from 60 mph, allowing a slight cool between they driving a long time to let them cool without braking. Need an empty track1 Frankly that would overheat the Base brakes. Just like the Carbotech I installed on my 2014 Z5 after 6 months living with the dustry OEM pads. In fact Carbotech stopped recommending d bedding their Steet Only 1521 pads because as you surely would they overheated. BTW had 1521s on my 2017 Grand Sport and now on my C8. Only applyed the brakes aggressively 4 or 5 times after installing.

Assuming the squeal is occurring at slow speed modest pressure stops, you could try 4 or 5 stops times from 60 mph to 20 at 80% max foot pressure. NO ABS. BUT if it just a squeak could be other tings. Could try all a dealer would do even for low speed squeal. They will remove the pads and apply brake pad lub only on the pad sides where GM recommends when installing new pads.

GM will reimburse the dealer for that more expensive procedure BUT usually will not to "burnish. Frankly even for 4 or 5 aggressive stops followed by like 10 miles of driving without using the brakes is not simple or safe. Doubt dealers will do that OF many folks (like myself) would NOT want a dealer driving their car that way!

If I just had a squeak I'd pull the pads, lub the sides and back of pads where they contact the pistons and check for proper top spring install.

Here are some pics or what I used when installing Carbotech pads on my C8 (and all other Vettes) : Use on OEM pads with or without baking,


Member showed where the top spring was not properly placed.

 

I complained about it on my 2023 C8 and the dealer said there's a break squeel kit. I'm getting in installed today under warranty. I'll post what the part number is after service is complete

Update: they called it a "kit" but was actually just lube... haha bulletin 17-na-040 part 19303310. This fixed the problem like pretty much all the posts above

 

I may need to bring mine in. .It squeals really loud when I first pull it out of the garage sometimes, and do my 3 point turn to head out. Maybe another squeal at the top of the driveway, but it seems like it's fine after that.

 

Mine does this too, very low speeds like moving in/out of garage. Very loud.

 

Same issue here, I was told it would go away at 5,000, 7,500, 10,000 miles, NOPE!
Every time I take it to the dealer it stops. They have heard it one time, but don't do anything because they cannot duplicate it!
I thin GM designers need to call Hyundai designers and learn how to make a 100,000 car that does not have SQUEEKY brakes...NOT HAPPY!!
I will take it in every time I hear it squeak. It seems to be heat related as they don't squeak right away but after 30 minutes of driving or so.
I will get a vidoe of the issue

 

They did this to my 2022 C8 Z51 and it squeaks LOUDER than it did before...AARRGGHHH

 

Why would it go away? You have not eliminated the cause.

The squeal was caused by irregular pad deposit on the rotors. Has to be some microscopic pad material transferred to the rotor BUT in a uniform layer.

I followed what the owner's manual calls Burnishing in the section on Tracking. NOT the 25 repeats they suggest 5 or 6. But follow the moderate brake pressure with ~80% letting them cool between as suggested. Squeal was gone and never came back. BTW most call in brake bedding- google.

Some go to the dealer and GM pays them on warranty to remove the brake pads and put lub on the metal backing pad sides. Lasts for a short time and comes back. They have not fixed the cause. In most cases a dealer will NOT burnish or bed the pads. Nor will GM reimburse them even if hey had a race track! In fact after you read what needs to be done the difficult thing is find a safe place to do it!

I switched to Carbotech 1521 low dust pads after 6 months. Foolish to wait that long.

On my 2017 Grand Sport and C8 Z51 switched pads week one. Never a squeal BUT I apply the brakes aggressively frequently. It's fun, try it! Need to do that to maintain that thin uniform pad material layer.

 

 

Hmm, old post. Look at Post above yours. I tell in detail how to stop squeal! 5 or 8 what the Owner's Manual calls burnishing. BUT read the owner's manual. Must have a mile between and very hard brake applications to let then cool then 8 to 10 miles without applying brakes. Need to find a safe place to perform.

Squeal is caused by vibration created by an uneven layer of the pad material on the rotors. Has nothing to do with copper free pads!

 

So I bought my Corvette c8 used. It does have the Z51 package and I got tired of the squeal and embarrassment when pulling up to a light. I decided to replace the brakes with the Carbotech 1521 only to find out that the previous owner already had those same pads installed. The brakes didn't need to be replace but I did so anyway thinking the noise would go away but NOPE!! The noise went away for a could thousand miles but is back now. This SUCKS!!!

 

Hmm, had carbotech 1521's on my 2014 C7 Z51, 2017 C7 Grand Sport and my 2020 C8 Z51. Never had a peep!

BUT after ~1000 miles on my 2014 C7 Z51 BEFORE I installed low dust 1521's they squealed like a stuck pig on slow speeds with light braking! Like you was embarrassing! First the cause:
The squealing is due to stick slip friction from uneven pad material on the rotor beit the OEM Brembo or Carbotech. That causes vibration and squeal. I fixed my Bembo squealing by:

• Doing a partial bedding (GM calls burnishing) and only recommends for tracking. Their procedure is in the Owner's Manual. BUT it takes like 20+ aggressive braking NEVER stopping.
• Also allowing 1 minute cooling between hard braking.
• Then 10 minutes letting the brakes cool completely also without stopping.
• So Find a place where you can can drive at 60 mph, brake hard (~0.8 "g" not activating ABS) drive 1 mile (1 minute) and repeat.
• Repeat 5 of 6 times than without ever stopping from min ~ 5 miles.

Many performance pads recommend bedding on installation. Carbotech used to but found folks using like the procedure in the owner's manual overheated the brakes. So they no longer recommend. I have a very detailed Doc re braking I have added to over the years. This is what it say about bedding (burnishing as GM refers to it) :

Bedding Fundamentals
Bed-in consists of heating a brake system to a temperature to allow the formation of a transfer layer. The brake system is then allowed to cool without coming to rest, resulting in an even transfer layer deposition around the rotor circumference. The procedure uses hard braking 4 to 6 times so rotor face is evenly covered with brake pad material. Because the adherent temperature range for brake pads varies widely (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F 1400°F for race pads), each bed-in needs to be application and pad specific. The key to a successful bed-in is to bring the pads up to their adherent operating temperature in a controlled manner and keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to successfully accomplish the bed-in.
Note: Carbotech found users were overheating the 1521 pads probably using race pad bedding procedures. The only difficult part is finding a safe road to do it!
Info from Carbotech: Proper OLD Bedding Instructions for the 1521’s. Note Carbotech found users were overheating the 1521 pads when bedding, causing glazing! They now recommend not doing it. If you have a noise issue, I’d suggest you use this less aggressive procedure they had published previously for 1521 pads.
1. Brake from 60mph to 30mph (not 10 to 15 mph used for some race pads.) 2. Repeat step # 1, 5 to 6 times.
3. Let your brakes cool for about minimum 1 minute while driving at 60 mph. 4. Allow the brake pads and discs to cool down to ambient temperature after the~5 aggressive braking (driving about ~10 minutes without stopping). NOTE: Proper bedding of pads & rotors will result in greater performance and longer pad & rotor wear. I followed this older Carbotech procedure noted above. It is different than their other brake pads suggested for racing pads. When finished all stops were smooth, straight and felt like the old OEM pads.

This is the detailed DOC mostly Pics and Long descriptive captions:
https://netwelding.com/Ceramic_Pads.pdf

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll have to try it.

 

I track my ZO6. Plenty of repeated hard braking (burnished). They still squeak like a bitch at slower speeds. Going to the track next weekend then swapping them out to the Power Stop. Less brake dust and hopefully take care of the squeaking.

My Stingray never had a single squeak and it was tracked also, or I would've swapped them out too.

 

Did you use the GM burnishing procedure outlined in the Owner's Manual if Tracking? Requires 25 medium braking from 60 mph to 30 mph without ever stopping. followed by 25 aggressive braking from ~60 mph to ~15 mph, with minimum 1 minute cooling to let the pad material partially bond to the rotor. Then allowing 10+ miles of driving without any braking to have the rotors cool from the very hot temperature the rotors will get in the process. That last 10 mile driving to cool the rotors allows the pad material to fully bond to the rotors. If not done of is you every stop in the middle you'll get stoppy pad material, slip/stick friction as slow speed braking and squeal.

Hard braking when Tracking, just like if street driing not allowing the rotors to cool between prevents the pad material fom forming a uniform (very thin) coating on the rotors.

Assume you will only use PowerStop for road use as not designed for Tracking.

From my 2024 Owners Manual for Tracking:
Brake Burnishing Procedure for J55 (Stingray
with Z51) and J56 (Z06 Standard) Brakes
This brake burnish procedure should only be
performed on vehicles with the Z06 with
J56, or Z51 with J55 factory equipped brake
systems.
1. Using the friction bubble in the Cluster
Performance menu, apply the brakes 25
times starting at 100 km/h (60 mph) to
50 km/h (30 mph) while decelerating at
0.4 g. This is a medium brake application. Drive for
at least 1 km (0.6 mi) between applying
the brakes.
2. Apply the brakes 25 times starting at
100 km/h (60 mph) to 25 km/h (15 mph)
while decelerating at 0.8 g. This is a hard
brake application without activating the
Antilock Brake System (ABS). Drive for at
least 1 km (0.6 mi) between applications.
Depending on conditions, some increase
in brake pedal travel and brake pedal
force may be experienced.
3. Cool down: Drive at 100 km/h (60 mph)
for approximately 15 km (10 mi) without
using the brakes.

PS: Idid a street only bedding of the CCBs on my E-Ray. Made a big difference in stopping ability.

 

I broke my brakes in [cc] gently[ less than 1k miles] and only twice did it feel wooden , car stops amazingly ,no noise [8k now] . For the record many disc brake anti-squeal and brake lube have two different uses and one of the many examples of people who work on cars and mechanics who repair cars . Both in most cases should never ever touch the pad material or rotor surface . Rotors [iron] should get a non-directional finish or at least scuffed with ruby garnet paper then brake clean washed . I always told my customers to bed their brakes in gently for the first 200 miles .....it was rare to have a squeaker comeback [pad vibration movement ] .

 

100% yes!!!

 

For everyone saying burnish this, burnish that, I've never had this squealing problem in any prior cars in 40 years. Granted, when I used to replace my own pads/discs, I always added that ceramic permatex paste shown above and that definitely helps. For what it's worth, my C8s brakes (non z51) only squeal when I first get going in the morning. They are fine the rest of the day.