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I've seen a few you tube vidz that show that you need a "special tool" to remove the pads.
so they remove the entire caliper.
im planning on using tracks pads and then swapping them back to street pads.
same as I did with the C7.
any solution or where would I purchase the tool.
I bought one off Amazon, but for some reason no US distributors have it. I got mine from the UK, took two weeks & shipping was more than the price of the socket.
A little clarification. The hard part is getting the stock pads out of the calipers. They use a very strong bonding tape to secure the pads at the factory.
The easiest thing to do to remove the stock pads is to remove the caliper. You can then pretty easily pry the stock pads off.
once you have done that, (say swap to another pad like a 1521, or a track pad), you can just take out the bridge bolt, (Torx plus, Torx EP) and swap the pads out. It’s the adhesive on the stock pads that’s a pita.
A little clarification. The hard part is getting the stock pads out of the calipers. They use a very strong bonding tape to secure the pads at the factory.
The easiest thing to do to remove the stock pads is to remove the caliper. You can then pretty easily pry the stock pads off.
once you have done that, (say swap to another pad like a 1521, or a track pad), you can just take out the bridge bolt, (Torx plus, Torx EP) and swap the pads out. It’s the adhesive on the stock pads that’s a pita.
If your looking for the etorx sockets, check out Amazon.ca $22 for a set. Lots in stock.
It's not just a e Torx. you need the Torx PLUS or Torx E Plus or EP. or zero angle drive. The "E" just means external, referring to the fastener. (male fastener, and the socket is female)
A little clarification. The hard part is getting the stock pads out of the calipers. They use a very strong bonding tape to secure the pads at the factory.
The easiest thing to do to remove the stock pads is to remove the caliper. You can then pretty easily pry the stock pads off.
once you have done that, (say swap to another pad like a 1521, or a track pad), you can just take out the bridge bolt, (Torx plus, Torx EP) and swap the pads out. It’s the adhesive on the stock pads that’s a pita.
Yep issue is dealing with the strong two sided tape holding the pads to the pistons. I did it as I did on my early 2014 Z51 that used the same stuff (it was eliminated mid 2014.) Then you need the "caliper support removal socket."
IF replacing pads, 1st issue is the caliper clamp needs a special socket also used by Porsche, Audi etc. There was incorrect info (or some cars are different) that a Torx EP was needed. My pad support bolts were only T40. I bought Plus or TPlus wrench and it did NOT fit.
As mentioned, IF not removing the caliper (which has it's own issue as the two large caliper bolts require a long wrench and IF on a lift no issue but just jacking as I did NO ROOM) then to separate the pad from the strong piston to pad double side brake tape is not easy. I used a pint scraper (as did on my early 2014 Z51) I ground to a sharp edge. Takes hammer blows. Have to be very careful you don't damage the piston duct pads! I recommended a possible method in my install PDF that may work. Still looking for feedback from someone who tries. PM if you do.. This is my detailed pic/caption PDF: http://netwelding.com/Ceramic_Pads.pdf
it's easier to remove the Caliper to remove the glued pads the 1st time you change pads, the next time you can do it from the top without removing caliper.
I put a large screwdriver between pad and rotor and gave it a twist , to my surprise the glue was not that strong, just be carful you are not near the rubber seals.
it's easier to remove the Caliper to remove the glued pads the 1st time you change pads, the next time you can do it from the top without removing caliper.
I put a large screwdriver between pad and rotor and gave it a twist , to my surprise the glue was not that strong, just be carful you are not near the rubber seals.
Hi, sounds like you 1st removed the caliper THEN used a screwdriver. Since you changed rotors you obviously had to remove the calipers, which as you note makes it much easy to break the holding force of the pad to piston double sided tape.
ASSUME since you had the car on a lift you could use a long wrench to remove the two caliper bolts? If installing as I did with just jacking there is no room for a long wrench.
I was hoping someone would try using a screw driver as shown below WITHOUT removing the caliper. As noted in pic below the adhesive will release a lot easier in what is called "Cleavage or Peel." It stronger is tension. With caliper in place there is little room to create "Cleavage." As you note IF you use what I did on my early 2014 Z51 front pads AND my C8 front pads, a paint scraper and hammer, have to be very careful to NOT nick the piston dust boots. Still looking for input on IF, with the Calipers in place, this "IDEA" can work to release the strong brake pad tape hold on pistons to pad (front pads only just like the early 2014 Z51's.)
Hi, sounds like you 1st removed the caliper THEN used a screwdriver. Since you changed rotors you obviously had to remove the calipers, which as you note makes it much easy to break the holding force of the pad to piston double sided tape.
ASSUME since you had the car on a lift you could use a long wrench to remove the two caliper bolts? If installing as I did with just jacking there is no room for a long wrench.
I was hoping someone would try using a screw driver as shown below WITHOUT removing the caliper. As noted in pic below the adhesive will release a lot easier in what is called "Cleavage or Peel." It stronger is tension. With caliper in place there is little room to create "Cleavage." As you note IF you use what I did on my early 2014 Z51 front pads AND my C8 front pads, a paint scraper and hammer, have to be very careful to NOT nick the piston dust boots. Still looking for input on IF, with the Calipers in place, this "IDEA" can work to release the strong brake pad tape hold on pistons to pad (front pads only just like the early 2014 Z51's.)
First I would like to thank you for all the PDF files you have on your site, I've been using them since I got my 2014 C7
I don't think you have enough room to twist the screw driver to get the pads off without removing the caliper the 1st time with the glue on them. The puck seals are too big to get any tool far down to pry the pads away, you may be able to get a paint scrapper in there once you loosen the top of pad with a screw driver but I wouldn't take that chance for fear of damaging the seals.
Yes i did take the caliper off, then I followed your directions and used a screw driver to twisted from the top, they came off a lot easier than I expected.
I used my Craftsman 19volt battery operated impact lug nut tool to remove those 21mm caliper bolts with impact socket. For the install I had to jack the car higher to get my 1/2in torque wrench in there to tighten them to 155 ft lbs , I do use a lift jack.
First I would like to thank you for all the PDF files you have on your site, I've been using them since I got my 2014 C7
I don't think you have enough room to twist the screw driver to get the pads off without removing the caliper the 1st time with the glue on them. The puck seals are too big to get any tool far down to pry the pads away, you may be able to get a paint scrapper in there once you loosen the top of pad with a screw driver but I wouldn't take that chance for fear of damaging the seals.
Yes i did take the caliper off, then I followed your directions and used a screw driver to twisted from the top, they came off a lot easier than I expected.
I used my Craftsman 19volt battery operated impact lug nut tool to remove those 21mm caliper bolts with impact socket. For the install I had to jack the car higher to get my 1/2in torque wrench in there to tighten them to 155 ft lbs , I do use a lift jack.
Thanks for comments about my PDFs. Also thanks for the pic of the lift jack! Had not heard that 155 ft-lb requirement but logical considering the caliper bolt size and the task of supporting the caliper.
As I note in my PDF, I did remove the pads with a sharpened paint scraper. NOT easy and does require a hammer. I used a narrower one than I have used for my early 2014 Z51 that used similar double sided piston to pad tape. I was successful doing that with my 2014 Z51 BUT frankly it's more difficult with the C8 to avoid nicking the piston dust boots.
The issue is with just jacking the car would have to jack high enough to get a long wrench, like my 1/2 inch breaker bar to remove them. To tighten my 150 ft-lb torque wrench would need a lot of room. Do have a long reach, high lift jack but supporting the car with a jack stand for safety would have meant removing the aero panels to locate a suitable frame location.
Thanks to all for the very useful info, and especially Jerry for his detailed pdf !!!
I'm swapping out my stock pads this week as my garage may be warm enough to work in ........ LOL !!!
For those who have swapped to the CarboTech 1521's a couple of questions, please.
1. Should I be scuffing the rotors with a ScotchBrite pad, or fine emory paper prior to installing my new pads? Car has 3000 easy miles on it.
2. As I was going to disconnect the battery before starting the project, do you lose all memory settings through out the car?
3. Since I don't have a lift, and may not have proper room to get a breaker bar into the area for caliper removal, I was going to plan on leaving calipers in place and try Jerry's suggested screwdriver / vise grips to twist the pad from the glued pistons. Anyone try this yet to see if there is enough room to get in there?
4. Bedding in pads ??? I've seen some folks say the CarboTech 1521 DON'T need to be bedded in. Should I be doing the 60 to 30mph 5 or 6 times, then cool down. Lots of conflicting info out there.....
Thanks to all for the very useful info, and especially Jerry for his detailed pdf !!!
I'm swapping out my stock pads this week as my garage may be warm enough to work in ........ LOL !!!
For those who have swapped to the CarboTech 1521's a couple of questions, please.
1. Should I be scuffing the rotors with a ScotchBrite pad, or fine emory paper prior to installing my new pads? Car has 3000 easy miles on it. With 3000 miles I would use a ScotchBrite pads NOT to roughen as don't think you'll touch that cast iron BUT to remove the OEM Brake pad residual. I used a few on my 2014 Z51 that had 6 months of OEM pad use and although I didn't see anything on the rotors went through a few pads as they got dirty!
2. As I was going to disconnect the battery before starting the project, do you lose all memory settings through out the car? Nope, as I recall did not even have to index the windows- perhaps one, but that is easy and in the Owner's Manual.
3. Since I don't have a lift, and may not have proper room to get a breaker bar into the area for caliper removal, I was going to plan on leaving calipers in place and try Jerry's suggested screwdriver / vise grips to twist the pad from the glued pistons. Anyone try this yet to see if there is enough room to get in there?
4. Bedding in pads ??? I've seen some folks say the CarboTech 1521 DON'T need to be bedded in. Should I be doing the 60 to 30mph 5 or 6 times, then cool down. Lots of conflicting info out there.... I did that only about 3 times in succession. More to set the pads, not really a burnish. Mine stop great, no pulling to either side..
thanks,
Hope someone responds to #3. No one has emailed or PM me!
Thanks Jerry once again for all the VERY helpful information !!!
I intend to try your screwdriver / vice grip method and will let you know how it goes. I'm thinking this Wednesday to give it a go, as it will be 56 degrees here then, but I'm also waiting or Paragon Performance to ship me a set of C8 Spanner Wrenches to lower the car and prefer to do it at the same time. Paragon just told me the wrenches won't be available to ship until the end of the week, so I may hold off another week for the brake swap out.
Hope someone responds to #3. No one has emailed or PM me!
Carbotech 1521 pads with Giro Disc rotors , z51 C8
I did the procedure for transferring the pad material to the rotors , similar to bedding but not as aggressive .
I did 6 consecutive 60 to 20 slow downs and the drove till brakes cooled off about 15 minutes at 65 mph.
The instructions from the Giro disc rotors said it will be successful when I saw pad material on the rotors
this picture shows the pad material burnished onto rotor
this picture is before I did the transfer or mild bedding
Last edited by george vee; Mar 3, 2021 at 01:04 AM.
Brake pad removal tool
